Seriously, it fixed my o-ring failure on a 42K Mazda Reman of a 1993 TT.

My engine exhibited the following symptoms:

- gurgling sound (for the last 40K)
- misfire at idle, shows up as rich A/F on gauge (last 500 mi.)
- coolant buzzer (last 50 mi.)
- blowing coolant into bottle w/o returning;
- small bubbles at fill cap upon cold start;
- vaccum dropped from 14 in. Hg to 11 in. Hg (last 500 mi.)


I pressure tested the system: dropped 1.5 psi w/in 30 minutes and 9 psi over 12 hours and totally lost all press. in 24 hours.

While deciding whether to get Pineapple to rebuild a good motor (10K) out of a wrecked car or buying a Malloy Mazda Reman (btw Ray is an awesome guy to deal with, all his engines have new rotors and housings due to his volume), I decided to try this CRC block weld.

Basically, the material is a silicate copper mixture that under high temperature becomes a ceramic-mettallic material when exposed to air. However, it can not be used with any trace of glycol or it becomes a gel that will clog your cooling system.

The procedures:
remove thermostat, flush-fill-drain with purple degreasers 3 times with a flush before and after each degreasing cycle (I did a total of 10 fill-drain cycle). You can drain the block by crawling underneath the car by the driver's side right above the edge of the oil pan and unscrewing a 14mm bolt. Fill the system, pour in two 8oz bottles, run to 210 degrees F for 30-45 minutes, let sit 24 hours, drain, install thermostat, fill with coolant-water mixture.

CONCLUSIONS:
Damn! THIS CRAP WORKS!



-NO MORE GURGLING SOUND ON START UP
- FLUID LEVEL IN THE FILL NECK ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP WHEN COLD
- VACCUM IS NOW 15-16 in. Hg
- NO MORE MISFIRE/RICH A/F AT IDLE


Hell, this should be done to all reman motor!

The only downside is how long will it last? I'm running 13.5 psi with a PFC, M2 Large, ND pump and datalogit. I'll keep running this and see how long it will last. According to other postings, Paul Yaw has it in a daily driver for more than 2 years and Ron Miller has it for more than a year.

SO IF YOU HAVE THE ABOVE SYMPTOMS, RUN OUT TO PEP BOYS, SPEND $20 PLUS 10 HOURS TO SAVE YOUR MOTOR BEFORE IT'S TOO LATE.

 

So now you just have a huge $20 band aid on your motor?

Cool

I dont know ... if it works, thats cool ... But I know its nothing Id ever do to my motor

 

there is a few people around running on that for 1-2 years with no problems. but nowhere near your HP. I don't know if that would matter thogh.

 

More accurately, I think, it is something I hope I never have to do on my motor.
If it saves a engine swap, what is the downside?

 

Block sealer is wonderful band-aid.
Most of us don't have a couple grand laying around for a new motor when current one ***** the bed.

If the conditions are right, block sealer can buy you at least a few months (it bought me 6 & I kept autocrossing) to start saving for the rebuild before the motor completely croaks.

 

The downside is, like people have said, its just a bandaid. Its not fixing the real problem.

 

To those of us who do not have $2-3K in our bank accounts, it's a great buy for $20. Spending $20 for more time on your current motor that is dead or dying is geat........ and you get to keep driving the car. I'd do it, if I ever had to, no doubt in my mind

 

Oh well ... Whatever floats your boat.

Like I said, its definately something I would never do to my car though.

 

"Hell, this should be done to all reman motor! "

Why would you make a blanket statemnt like this?
If its leaking, get it fixed under warrenty, but to pour a bandaid in a relatively new motor?
IMHO, thats right up there with adding sawdust to a noisey transmission.

If you are just attempting to buy time on a motor that is toasted or dying, yah sure. Why not? But to generically add it? Bad advice\In my opinion