crap! raced, now oil leak :(
#1
crap! raced, now oil leak :(
Well I just got my clutch slave cylinder changed out and whent for a drive. well I just felt like driving around for a while and a kid drove up next to me and gave me props on my car and I said thanks and he said do you wanna run??? Well I figured what the hell even though he is in some luxury v8 monster. Anyways I throw it into first and then second, in second I let it get all the way up to 7,200rpm (is that to high?) anyways it was fast enough to brake my 10" wide tires loose and go sideways for a second. Well I go directly home after that and get out of the car with it still running (cooling things off) and look under the car to see oil dripping everywhere! ANyways I emidiatley cut the car off and check the oil and nothing is registering on the dipstick
well it looks like I was a moron and when I descided against the ss oil lines it bit me in the ***. Anyways my question is, how bad is this on my engine??? From the point of where I raced to home was about 1 1/2 - 2 miles tops. Do you guys think everything is ok or did I fry the engine?
ps. before I saw the oil leak I shut the car off and then turned it back on and it turned on just fine.
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ps. before I saw the oil leak I shut the car off and then turned it back on and it turned on just fine.
Last edited by hondahater; 01-05-05 at 09:08 PM.
#6
well it is dripping all around the oil cooler lines so I'm emagining (hoping) its comming from that. If the dowl was cracked where would it be dripping? It's dripping on the drivers side front of the engine compartment. When I looked at the dipstick it showed none but when I got home it was still spewing so that tells me at least it wasn't bone dry. Oh yeah the wierd thing is I always check my gauges and my oil pressure gauge was still showing normal when I got home???
#7
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running with no oil pressure can lead to catastrophic failure of bearings
im saying that with no oil pressure for 1 - 2 mi is probably not going to hurt the bearing to shaft surfaces, because the oil can "hang on" for a while with no oil pressure.
my only concern is, did the rotors expand away from the rotor bearings?
if you have spun rotor bearings the engine will not last 50 more miles and will sound like two skeletons ******* on a tin roof -- no **** - bad.
this actually happened to me, when i rushed my rebuild and installed the thermopellet backward, resulting in no cooling spray getting to the internal cavities of the rotors, leading to spun rotor bearings, two dead rotors, and a fucked eshaft.
im saying that with no oil pressure for 1 - 2 mi is probably not going to hurt the bearing to shaft surfaces, because the oil can "hang on" for a while with no oil pressure.
my only concern is, did the rotors expand away from the rotor bearings?
if you have spun rotor bearings the engine will not last 50 more miles and will sound like two skeletons ******* on a tin roof -- no **** - bad.
this actually happened to me, when i rushed my rebuild and installed the thermopellet backward, resulting in no cooling spray getting to the internal cavities of the rotors, leading to spun rotor bearings, two dead rotors, and a fucked eshaft.
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#9
Originally Posted by hondahater
When I looked at the dipstick it showed none but when I got home it was still spewing so that tells me at least it wasn't bone dry.
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I wouldn't fret too much, the same thing happened to my car at some point when Bill had it. He just replaced the oil cooler lines with the stainless corksport ones. Replace them, and see what happens. All in all though, I wouldn't assume the worst yet.
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If you cracked the dowel, there would be oil everywhere...EVERYWHERE! It would likely come from the oil filler neck area of the housing I believe and it would blow all over the place (oil pressure blasting it out).
Sounds like just oil cooler lines...cheap and pretty easy to do. You'll do yourself a favor if you drain the entire system and clean everything really well before you work. Rags, a good degreaser and brake cleaner!! When you're all done, hit a car wash with an undercarriage spray so you can clean off any oil that have may flung back on the chassis. Rust is bad
Sounds like just oil cooler lines...cheap and pretty easy to do. You'll do yourself a favor if you drain the entire system and clean everything really well before you work. Rags, a good degreaser and brake cleaner!! When you're all done, hit a car wash with an undercarriage spray so you can clean off any oil that have may flung back on the chassis. Rust is bad
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#18
Hehe...don't panic bro. My oil cooler line on my S4 N/A did the same thing (though I didn't lose all oil). If the car was running fine when you shut it off, its likely all good. I knew a guy who's sister worked in a factory where they make custom hydraulic lines. I got mine in braided stainless rated up to 3000 PSI (hehe...I think that should last) for around $30 (though you'll probably pay alot more unless you know someone).
-Joe
-Joe
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im not the type that rubs your belly and tells you everything is going to be ok, im just giving straight facts.
in one scenerio i gave -- then engine is going to be ok,
in the other, which is entirely possible, the engine wont last another 50 miles.
but I'm an optimist -- i think your engine will live.
in one scenerio i gave -- then engine is going to be ok,
in the other, which is entirely possible, the engine wont last another 50 miles.
but I'm an optimist -- i think your engine will live.
#20
thanks again guys! I don't mind someone telling me straight up either because this is not a perfect world and I do realize that. Anyways overdriven thanks for the input 30 bucks would be a damn good deal but it looks like I'll be spending in the neighbor hood of 140
oh well. Geargrabber thanks again for the straigt up answer
It does mean alot though that you think my engine will be fine
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