Couple of questions about my quest for 500RWHP
#1
Couple of questions about my quest for 500RWHP
First off, I'm planing on building a street/drag car, but i'm going to be on some sort of a budget. So basicially, i dont want to get in over my head and have to abort the project.
My question is, how much Hp will the stock driveterain hold up to? I would like to put down about 500 at the wheels, but i'm worried that i'm gonna have to go with a different rearend, axles, tranny, you get the idea. This is gonna be way to much more then what my budget will handle. So far mods are going to be as follows.
Microtech
Agressive streetport
1600 secondaries
1000 primaries
Greddy fmic
Koyo radiator with electric fan
light weight flywheel
4 puck clutch
some sort of fuel pump
fuel pressure regulator
T-60 turbo
What else do i need to do to get to 500 RWHP? Does anybody see anything that i am missing? I wanna here from you high HP guys; the guys that have been through this already. Thanks....
Steve
My question is, how much Hp will the stock driveterain hold up to? I would like to put down about 500 at the wheels, but i'm worried that i'm gonna have to go with a different rearend, axles, tranny, you get the idea. This is gonna be way to much more then what my budget will handle. So far mods are going to be as follows.
Microtech
Agressive streetport
1600 secondaries
1000 primaries
Greddy fmic
Koyo radiator with electric fan
light weight flywheel
4 puck clutch
some sort of fuel pump
fuel pressure regulator
T-60 turbo
What else do i need to do to get to 500 RWHP? Does anybody see anything that i am missing? I wanna here from you high HP guys; the guys that have been through this already. Thanks....
Steve
#3
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To get 500 you'll need a ******* bridge port or even a monster port there buddy. I think your not seeing the potential of the 13B engine.. its hard to get it to 500RWHP.
Just keep in mind that with the bridgeport/monster port it aint gona be ******* drivable in the city, your gonna have to like rev up to just get going, you'll look like your drag racing at every light
But yea, with a bridgeport and those mods, high boost, I can see it happening.
*edit*
keep in mind that when you do that kind of porting.. the engine doesn't hold up for very long, or so I've been told. That kind of HP is for dragging man, 1/4 mile ****. I'd just do a streetport with those mods and take what you can get for HP, you'll still have one hell of an rx7 tho
Just keep in mind that with the bridgeport/monster port it aint gona be ******* drivable in the city, your gonna have to like rev up to just get going, you'll look like your drag racing at every light
But yea, with a bridgeport and those mods, high boost, I can see it happening.
*edit*
keep in mind that when you do that kind of porting.. the engine doesn't hold up for very long, or so I've been told. That kind of HP is for dragging man, 1/4 mile ****. I'd just do a streetport with those mods and take what you can get for HP, you'll still have one hell of an rx7 tho
#4
Senior Member
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I think very few people realize the difference between usable and unusable power.
Beyond 350 horsepower on a street-driven car, it is all about numbers and bragging rights. 350 is 2 and 1/3rd's times as much as the car came with stock (RWHP not Flywheel) and yes I am talking about TII's, there is no use for power above that level and I am sure many would disagree but 350 is way more than 90% would ever be able to use efficiently. These are very powerful cars and when you more than double the already existing power you shouldn't be searching for more, however learning how to maximize your driving ability and utilizing that amount of power to it's fullest potential.
--Fritz
Beyond 350 horsepower on a street-driven car, it is all about numbers and bragging rights. 350 is 2 and 1/3rd's times as much as the car came with stock (RWHP not Flywheel) and yes I am talking about TII's, there is no use for power above that level and I am sure many would disagree but 350 is way more than 90% would ever be able to use efficiently. These are very powerful cars and when you more than double the already existing power you shouldn't be searching for more, however learning how to maximize your driving ability and utilizing that amount of power to it's fullest potential.
--Fritz
#5
Your setup is good...for maybe 400-440rwhp (turbo/tuning dependant, 450 really will be hard pressed) on race gas at like 20psi. You have a good setup list, but from 400rwhp to 500 is a big difference.
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#8
Drivetrain really depends on how much traction you have, ie: street tires/drag/slicks. A pair of chromoly axels is a must. The diff itself can take 600rwhp. The axels around 400rwhp etc. It also depends on driving style. That turbo won't do it. Most I have seen on that is 460rwhp on a large sideport, thats about 60more rwhp than most guys in the US hit. I would opt for atleast a 66mm compressor. You don't need a bridge to hit that much hp.
#9
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i dont know what yall are talking about, my BP, is very streetable, drives like a normal car, cruises like a normal car, and low end like a normal car.....smells like a normal. i guess its b/c yall havent rode in one before...and we have seen 500wrhp on a bp, have your pockets ready
#10
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Originally Posted by Slammedblk7
i dont know what yall are talking about, my BP, is very streetable, drives like a normal car, cruises like a normal car, and low end like a normal car.....smells like a normal. i guess its b/c yall havent rode in one before...and we have seen 500wrhp on a bp, have your pockets ready
Just for the record, yours isnt a full bridge though...
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Originally Posted by adamlewis
Just for the record, yours isnt a full bridge though...
#12
give Presicion turbo a call. They have some new turbo setups like the PT76 that a forum member laid down over 500rwhp with 4 1600cc injectors with STOCK PORTS so it can be done. Most of the problems on the second gen forum is that 80% of the people are talking out of their *** and don't have the money to experiment with new setups to try and get big numbers. And dare people say "big money". Even if you drop 12k into your motor setup, most of us bought our cars for around 2500-5000k area. Even if you spend 20k on the whole setup what can you get on the car market today 400-500rwhp for 20k? Nothing that will look as good and handle as good as a second gen. So don't get discouraged by forum members who tell you not to try this. After you do it and post pics they will be the same guys who post "thats killer" and I can't wait to do it.
#13
Brother of the Rotary
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^ Good point.
Personally, I would forget the SP, and go H-BP (at least). Probably use the 13B-RE as well.
The H-BP has been proven to be street driveable. And, when mated to the correct size turbo, will have just as much low/mid range power, and way more top-end that a streetport.
The T-66 is good for high boost (PR 2+), but I can't say how well it mates up to a half bridge. Tony Farkas was using a Borg Warner S300 on his car, when it made 499
Its not hard to get 'in over your head' in terms of $$$ when building even a 400whp car. So just be prepared.
Personally, I would forget the SP, and go H-BP (at least). Probably use the 13B-RE as well.
The H-BP has been proven to be street driveable. And, when mated to the correct size turbo, will have just as much low/mid range power, and way more top-end that a streetport.
The T-66 is good for high boost (PR 2+), but I can't say how well it mates up to a half bridge. Tony Farkas was using a Borg Warner S300 on his car, when it made 499
Its not hard to get 'in over your head' in terms of $$$ when building even a 400whp car. So just be prepared.
#14
Laying Down Rotary Law
The 60-1 are no good for 500HP
you need a T66-T74
at 22-24PSI I don't see why a 13BT street port would be hard presed to make 500 to the wheels as some of you are saying.......Tunning does nothing but extract the power a "setup" has
So you numbers are dependent 1st on your setup and second tunning
the TII drivetrail can support 600+ just driving skills plays alot into whether it will last
I.E dumping the clutch is a no no slipping the clutch will work best not to break parts
John Shepard's Talon which run 8's only slips the cluth
theres no way his car would make even one pass if he was to dump it
http://www.shepracing.com/videos/shep876.avi
you need a T66-T74
at 22-24PSI I don't see why a 13BT street port would be hard presed to make 500 to the wheels as some of you are saying.......Tunning does nothing but extract the power a "setup" has
So you numbers are dependent 1st on your setup and second tunning
the TII drivetrail can support 600+ just driving skills plays alot into whether it will last
I.E dumping the clutch is a no no slipping the clutch will work best not to break parts
John Shepard's Talon which run 8's only slips the cluth
theres no way his car would make even one pass if he was to dump it
http://www.shepracing.com/videos/shep876.avi
#15
Do a barrel roll!
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Hey Kabooski, I think I sent you a PM a while ago , inquiring about your T-66 you were using on your FC. I just wanted to ask your opinions of it, and what A/Rs yours was? I have the opportunity to buy a T-66, but it has a .68 hotside A/R, and I was thinking that was a bit small for my large SP 13BT. Then again, I "only" want ~400 RWHP, and quick spool is important to me. Do you think that turbo would be a good choice, and would it still pull hard up top?
Last edited by Rxmfn7; 09-22-04 at 09:07 AM.
#16
Laying Down Rotary Law
you need a .81 undivided V flange of 4 bolt (.81 is what I use)
I really did not have LAG as you will
I would be crusing and then punch it
boost would come damm fast full boost by 4k
a lot of people blame BIG turbo's for "LAG"
when really all they have to do is look at there fuel curves <---Key to good spool
even if using a 1.32 divided housing like the aussies prefer
I know have a presicion PT-67
I really did not have LAG as you will
I would be crusing and then punch it
boost would come damm fast full boost by 4k
a lot of people blame BIG turbo's for "LAG"
when really all they have to do is look at there fuel curves <---Key to good spool
even if using a 1.32 divided housing like the aussies prefer
I know have a presicion PT-67
#18
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**** bitch you forgot the type R badge. Nos stickers alone are only worth 100hp. I'd suggest finding someone who can build such a motor. There's a guy in my area who builds monsters. His puts down 730rwhp on just a streetport. He also built a motor for a guy that put his car into the 11's and he's driven the car daily with no problems for 7 months. Trick is to know what you are doing. Then anything is possible.
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I dunno but I was thinking lately that the N/A is a much better candidate for a turbo than the TII engine, just becuase of the extra two ports. I know the compression is high, and anything about 10psi is risky, but what if you swapped out the rotors for lower compression ones? is this possible, or do I have it all wrong? Imagine, 6 port, 9.0:1 engine with turbo setup. Use the TII tranny, frame, etc, only drop in the N/A engine.
this possible?
I bet you could get 600horse this way with a bridgeport.
this possible?
I bet you could get 600horse this way with a bridgeport.
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Originally Posted by Slammedblk7
who does a full here ? you dont even a full need one to make that power, the correct sized turbo, dual nippondenso pumps, 720, 1600 injectors, effiecient IC, stand alone EMS, and of course boost controller and all the other acc. that comes along. after that you should be WELL on your way too 500hp
Who buddy. Easy there. I was just saying that yours is so streetable and easy to drive because its only a half bridge. I have the same engine so dont think Im cracking on it or anything. I just wanted people to be aware that a full bridge isnt going to be quite as streetable as our half bridge engines.
#21
Well, i have heard that some brigeports are streetable, but the consensus is that most aren't. Thats why i decided to go with a streetport. But yeah, i just asked a guy that owns an rx-7 shop in florida what kind of HP i would put down with those mods, but with a T66. He told me 600 hp. Needless to say my jaw pretty much hit the ground. Remember though, there are a ton of different streetports. I just have to find the right template. Anybody know who sells the most agressive streetport templates?
Steve
Steve
#22
I break Diff mounts
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well 2 guys here are in the 400+ range.
Carx7 with a custom T04s(closest reference I think) pushed 420rwhp on pump gas and 470rwhp on race gas.
He has a mild street port and some other stuff. He needed to go to dual fuel pumps and upgrade his itgnition to get more hp.
Then there is another one here with a street port and I think it's a T76 ot T67 which put down 470 on a rough tune.
So,
You'll need
huge secondaries,Semi big primaries for drivability,dual fuel pumps,fpr,huge turbo,strong *** clutch.
I'm pretty sure both guys are on the stock drivetrains still.
Carx7 with a custom T04s(closest reference I think) pushed 420rwhp on pump gas and 470rwhp on race gas.
He has a mild street port and some other stuff. He needed to go to dual fuel pumps and upgrade his itgnition to get more hp.
Then there is another one here with a street port and I think it's a T76 ot T67 which put down 470 on a rough tune.
So,
You'll need
huge secondaries,Semi big primaries for drivability,dual fuel pumps,fpr,huge turbo,strong *** clutch.
I'm pretty sure both guys are on the stock drivetrains still.
#23
Rotary Enthusiast
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It's been said before and I'll said it again:
Cheap-Reliable-Fast
Pick any two.
I don't think 500RWHP on a budget is a realistic goal. But I tend to overbuild my projects so feel free to prove me wrong. Also, what is your definition of a budget? For the total project I'd say a car plus $10k in mods if you want something that is going to last is reasonable. I personally have twice that in mine.
As Corey said I made 422 on pump ~1 bar and 470 with 101 at ~1.3bar. I run 1.2 on the street with 91 octane. This is a street port. The only reason we quit tunning was that my single ND pump maxed and I had some ignition breakup (stock with Jacobs Pak) I'm now running the AEM ignition and more fuel. With a few tweaks I aim to up the power and continue to run pump gas.
The stock drive line is holding fine. I will likely try a half BP next time if I really want the 500 mark, but I'll get there with my street port this time. Oh my turbo is essentially a bb PT67 with the GTQ turbine wheel and a .84 divided housing.
Seriously though, as someone else said. This sort of power in these cars is insane. It certainly must be respected and I would NOT recomend it for any "new" drivers.
-Chris
Cheap-Reliable-Fast
Pick any two.
I don't think 500RWHP on a budget is a realistic goal. But I tend to overbuild my projects so feel free to prove me wrong. Also, what is your definition of a budget? For the total project I'd say a car plus $10k in mods if you want something that is going to last is reasonable. I personally have twice that in mine.
As Corey said I made 422 on pump ~1 bar and 470 with 101 at ~1.3bar. I run 1.2 on the street with 91 octane. This is a street port. The only reason we quit tunning was that my single ND pump maxed and I had some ignition breakup (stock with Jacobs Pak) I'm now running the AEM ignition and more fuel. With a few tweaks I aim to up the power and continue to run pump gas.
The stock drive line is holding fine. I will likely try a half BP next time if I really want the 500 mark, but I'll get there with my street port this time. Oh my turbo is essentially a bb PT67 with the GTQ turbine wheel and a .84 divided housing.
Seriously though, as someone else said. This sort of power in these cars is insane. It certainly must be respected and I would NOT recomend it for any "new" drivers.
-Chris