I have yet to get super acquainted with my rotary, even though i've had the thing for a year.

Now, i've bled my brakes and my brakes still suck. I was reading this could be an issue with a clogged brake booster check valve? I was chasing vacuum lines for a bit (got cold and tired and called it a day) and didn't find anything. I have an s4 n/a and can't upload my fsm to gather intel on the thing.


Also, i have an issue with white smoke (blue smoke is oil iirc) billowing from underhood that is most likely coolant. Granted my omp does have some crud on it, if it was the main source of the leaking, it would be a blue smoke, right?

There is a banjo fitting towards the front of the engine on the LIM that could be the culprit but i'm not sure.

I'm POSITIVE something is leaking from around the intake manifold onto the exhaust manifold heatsheild causing the smoking. Last time it happened, my hood latch cable came undone and i was freaking out thinking my car was going to burn while i watch helplessly. Got that sorted today though. Just pulled the latch and awaiting pins.

I am positive all this stuff is a cheap fix and hopefully i can get it sorted so i can move onto fun stuff. I'll be donating a large chunk of my tax refund to getting the project dialed in some more and driving this year.

Thanks.

 

Brandon oil will smoke white when burned and blue when burned through combustion. Also check the heater hose lines as they tend to leak and the passengers side line isnt far from the exhaust. You dont smell gas at all do you? There is a coolant line running from around the thermostat housing to the i.m. that could have crapped out on you.

 

You may have a O ring between the LIM/engine that is leaking.

 

Hmm. Well ryan, i've got a FREE welded diff with your name on it if you come down here and help me get it sorted! I'll work on it this weekend some and hopefully get it fixed but if not.....well, i'm going to need some experienced help. Bro, you saw how clean the bay was. You could eat off the damn engine. Everything else got skimped on though and it pissed me off.

I hate the fact the moron who had the car prior to me had the engine rebuilt, put a new alt, water pump and oil pump on the thing but put leaky *** banjo washers on the omp and used old hoses, belts and stuff..... It's causing me one headache after another every time i fix something, go drive for 10 minutes spiritedly, come back and find some new mess......


No fuel smell. I'll run the car, rev it and smell around just to be sure but i'll be picking up a new pd and injector o-rings shortly as well as a small fire extinguisher. I'm not investing an arm and a leg for performance mods underhood since the thing is going to come out eventually but i do want my dd reliable and NOT SMOKING/LIGHTING UP.

 

Well, i set the car down and cranked it over. Ofcourse it started first try but is now dead. No gas.

I followed the entire brake booster vac line to the intake manifold (which has all new gaskets that i didn't put there) and found NO check valve. Just the hardline, the two rubber lines and the banjo fitting to the manifold.

The master cylinder is leaking from one of the reservoir o-rings. Since that piece is staying with the car during it's lifetime, i'm going to replace the entire reservoir and see if it helps.

Pineapple racing has an omp seal kit and idiot-proof dvd to get the **** top notch for $25 so i'm buying that. Far too lazy to premix....


And for safety i'll spend $150 on some new injector o rings and a pd.....


I saw NO cracks or nothing that would indicate a heater/cold start system leak onto the manifold. Hoses look fine.

 

Since we can't edit posts after 30, i will say a banjo bolt and intake gasket is more worthwhile than spending money on a pd.

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/pd.html

Lots of good info here and anyone who wants to argue the point can find someone else to bicker with. I do NOT care if a pd is the "proper, reliable" thing to use. I dont need that carries GASOLINE failing that's directly over a hot *** exhaust manifold. I'd rather blow my engine than burn to death.


ALSO, since i have no air pump, the valve system on the lim can be pulled and blocked off right? It's just sitting there soaking up heat.......

 

The stock check valve is internal, found in the soft hose next to the booster.
You can't see it but it can be felt if you know what you're feeling for.

Easiest method is to pull the hose and blow through it.
Should only be able to go in one direction.

 

its only in the s4 turbo2, and all s5 cars. thats as much as i know about it.

 

Sounds like that. Just finished fixing that on my brothers Turbo II.