Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

It's very unlikely that all 4 (well, all two primary) injectors could be bad at once. However it is worth checking the injector resistor. And make sure to check the injector plugs for 12V when the key is on.

fc3sfreek

iTrader: (6)

well would the fact that my injectors were sitting outside thru rain and shine for almost 6 months damage them in anyway? because they were working 6 months ago when my car was running but now that i put it all back together i got no fuel. so do yall think that would make my injectors go bad?

CrypticApathy

Look under the dash to the right of your steering wheel and see if your injectors are even pluged in there.

fc3sfreek

iTrader: (6)

u mean the ECU plugs? if so then yea they are. if thats not what you are talking about then i dont kno because i never touched any wires on the drivers side of the car

NZConvertible

Wait, so the return line popped off when you pressurised the system? The return line should never have any pressure in it. There is only pressure between the pump and the FPR. The line after the FPR is open at the tank end so it cannot hold pressure. The only way the line could pop off the FPR is if the supply line is connected to it, i.e. the lines are the wrong way around. This would mean no fuel would flow as the FPR acts like a non-return valve.

Assuming this is not a J-spec engine, make sure you have the supply line from the filter connected to the pulsation damper on the primary fuel rail and the return line connected to the FPR on the secondary fuel rail. The pulsation damper looks like the FPR but has no vac nipple.

fc3sfreek

iTrader: (6)

well the line going into the fpr popped off... like from the fuel rail to the fpr. so doesnt that still have pressure in it until it goes thru the fpr? also my fpr is an aftermarket unit so u can tell where it is. and i checked and my fuel lines are on correctly

fc3sfreek

iTrader: (6)

ok so i tested the injector plugs for voltage. i got 12volts for each plug. so it has to be the injectors right?

NZConvertible

Ah, I forgot about the aftermarket FPR.

Not necessarily. Two failed injectors would be very unusual. Use a long screwdriver as a stethescope and listen to the primary injectors while crasnking the engine. You should hear them clicking.

I would check the AFM voltages too. The symptoms sound like a disconnected AFM, but could also be a broken one. See the FSM for testing it.

fc3sfreek

iTrader: (6)

well im buying injectors anyway just to see (i got money to spend anyway) but im pretty sure its not my afm considering i get no fuel at all to my injectors and the car will not start at all without starting fluid. i also took the fuel rail out and cranked the engine holding the fuel rail and nothing came out of the injectors. so ill buy injectors and if thats not the problem then its back to the drawing boards

NZConvertible

Your symptoms still suggest an AFM problem, and not an injector problem. You're not "pretty sure" it's not the AFM because you haven't checked it properly. Injectors are easily inspected too. Spending money before performing simple FREE checks is crazy...

fc3sfreek

iTrader: (6)

well i bought injectors, they will be here in a few days if i switch them out and still nothing then oh well, at least ill get that out of my head. ill kepp yall updated after my injectors come in

NZConvertible

So you paid for injectors without doing any checks? I'm trying to help you here man, but it's your money...

fc3sfreek

iTrader: (6)

yea i know i appreciate ur help but i just want to get it out of my mind if it is the injectors and $140 for 4 new injectors........ can beat that price

fc3sfreek

iTrader: (6)

yep well i put new injectors in and still gettin nothing..... keep throwin ideas at me guys

NZConvertible

Y'know I hate to say it, but I told you so...

Have you done any of the checks I told you to do? You keep asking for ideas, but then you ignore the suggestions given.

fc3sfreek

iTrader: (6)

i still have to check the AFM but if its not that what else could it be? and idont see how the afm could go bad if it has just been sitting in the stprage compartment of the car since i took out the engine 4 months ago

DREYKO

i think its that you need to change out you engine. just send me the old one and ill keep that since you have money to spend...

how about a bad leading coil?super fouled plugs? massive vac leak?
5 fourum bux says its a blown engine fuse. the one im talking about is in the inside od the car. its a 15apm fuse, check it.
if not when did this start? did the car get hard to start slowly? or one day nothing?

DREYKO

btw 140 for 4 new injectors? whered you get em at? that sounds sketchy to me but if its ligitamate im may be interested i need some new ones or to clean the old, and if new ones are 20 bux more, hell, why not?

fc3sfreek

iTrader: (6)

its a new rebuild and when i put it in i get no fuel.... my plugs are fine its nothing with spark or fuses just my injectors dont spray. the car starts and idles for a few seconds if i spray it with starting fluid. and my engine fuse is fine so u owe me 5 forum bux. and lay off onthe smart *** comments i didnt say anything smart to u so i would appreciate if u do the same

fc3sfreek

iTrader: (6)

i got them from a forum member so it could sound sketchy to u but I got them installed in my car as we speak. and they werent new just slighty used injectors from denso

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

I'd check the fuel lines to see if they were switched or hooked up wrong.

nexpo8

i think u shold check the afm. try t listen to NZ hes prob right. i mean i dnt know much but u never tried ur afm like he said.

fc3sfreek

iTrader: (6)

ok how do i test the AFM? i only have a haynes manual and it says "take it to a dealer" so how i exactly do i go about checking it?

nexpo8

u cant use the ****** volt tester?? like i did for the injectors

NZConvertible

The FSM has a procedure for checking the AFM on page 4B-60. You should also check the output voltage by back-probing the AFM plug while it's connected up. Pull off the plug's rubber boot to expose the wires in the back of the plug, and refer back to the FSM so you know which pins do what. With the ignition on put your DMM probes into the Vref (reference voltage) and E2 (ground) pins and read the voltage. It should be very close to 5V. Now put the probes into the Vs (signal voltage) and E2 (ground) pins. The voltage should be ~4V with the plate closed, and drop smoothly to ~1V as the AFM flap is pushed open.

Note that I'm not saying this is definitely your problem just that this is the very quick and easy tests you should perform to eliminate the items that aren't the cause of the problem and find the ones that are. Before you replaced the old injectors you should've measures the resistance of the coils and put 12V across them to see it they click open.