i'm sure it would work, however it would not be ideal. you would probably have to run it in parallel with the a stock ECU to handle some of the chassis function (IE door dingers, horn, etc...) assuming you want to use the stock harness for those too.

i dont know about mazda's shift strategy/fail safe w/ their autotragic transmissions.

for example ford's ecus will pull timing between shifts so as to minimize wear and heat on fictions and fluid in the transmission, but it swapped to manual this leads to it "hick-up-ing" as you drive along for the speed and rpm that it thinks it should be shifting the transmission (i swapped my winter/trail rig, a 97 ford explorer 5.0L). this is just an example of something that could happen, again i have no idea how the slushbox behind a 13bre acts....

i guess i'll rate various control setups worst to best:

Worst: s4 n/a
s5 n/a
13b-re parallel
s4 turbo
s5 turbo
s6
megasquirt
haltech
best: motec

 

all you would need to do to make this work is extend the wires from the nessisary sensors to the standalone and set the values in the ecu's settings to what the value ranges are for the factory sensors, fairly easy...

 

you could use an N/A trans too (it would probably not last very long tho...) you would just need to use an N/A flywheel, clutch set, and hydros (idk if turbos are any differnt then n/a )

i've even heard rumor of the stock twins for the RE fitting in the FC's engine bay *GASP* i have no real proof of this tho...

 

in the end standalone is gunna be cheaper, plus it eliminates me having to buy a whole motor trans crate motor and instead i can just try to get a motor and harness.

probly a frontmount, v, or h mount setup

single turbo conversion would be sweet too

 

there is a significant part of the harness that goes thru the dash, and its a HUGE amount of work to duplicate it...

the one i did just used an S5 T2 harness and ecu, for the most part it plugs in, you will want more fuel though, it runs really nice, but more than 8-10psi its pretty lean.

we also used a turbo like a BNR stage 1. so in other words skip the twin turbos, they do fit, but they are complex, they are smaller than the FD turbos, so less power

oh and also the FSM calls the cosmo engines -REW also, the W stands for double, or twin turbo. we just call it the -RE here so we don't confuse it with the FD engines

 

"whole motor trans crate motor" speak English please

standalone would be the cheapest if your trying to make it run the best from the "get -go" but i would think the RE ecu would work to get it up and going.

you shouldnt need a RE trans regardless, if you have an N/A car you could pick up a used aftermarket flywheel and reuse your clutch setup. (you would have to take it easy on the trans tho)

here is the cheapest setup i can think of assuming you have an N/A car:

banzai swap mounts

run the RE's ecu for engine control in parallel with the stock ecu

mate the engine to what ever trans you have using your existing trans and matching flywheel (reuse stock clutch if in good shape)

run stock twins and make your own v mount or front mount setup out of universal ebay parts

 

Hey Eric, its most wise to just find a turbo block and rebuild it. The swap itself is much easier and straight forward. Im sure your not looking for gobs of power so a 13b-re isnt really worth it imo. Regardless any swap wont be cheap. Your looking at thousands of dollars to do it right the first time. Thus why i havent been rushing my swap. If you go T2 i will tell you everything your going to need in a private message. Most annoying part is finding a engine block thats healthy enough to rebuild.

 

Like I already said. Not trying to be a dick, but if you're asking these sort of basic questions, then you shouldn't be attempting this swap. Yet. Stick with the 13BT. You'll save money, time, and lots of headache.

 

Why does the manifold say 13B RE?

 

Why do people with 13B-RE swaps always do H mounts or v mounts?

 

Read this: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/SWAP/COSMO/13b-re.html
It goes on in detail about the 13bre swap. Good read.

 

+1. Ted's site is really helpful on this one!

 

That it is, thanks all i have a few things on the list already too great.
thread is basically dead but,

PIC REQUEST.

lets see some swaps!

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_Wankel_engine

 

.....Good Luck!

 

advice taken brought turbo 2 lol

 

Why?

Largest intake ports on a 2 rotor. Period. Best Intake manifold. Unique.

Anything else?

 

because more often than not these swaps sit for years and years, and if you need to ask... you know the rest. do the V8 conversion guys ask what it takes to do a swap? sometimes i find that people are too forgiving around here.

 

Years and years, sound like my -RE swap.

I knew that going into it though.

 

Yes that's the reason I did it, scroll up at my pics. But for a novice I would highly recommend against it. Nuff said.

 

Best engine by a long shot, so glad I ended up using it. didnt take to long to change over.

Run a good second hand ECU (haltech E8) and its basically good to go.

bolts right up to a manual gearbox, just change the flywheel and cluch (from your old setup)

Best ports, thickest plates, worst exhaust ports :P, best intake manifold = win

 

Not usually, but some of them should.

 

Yeah at the time when i wanted to do the swap, it was gunna be into my N/a rx7, i just wanted to update you guys to let you know i just went the easier way and brought a whole Turbo2 car,
so at least im turbo now, maybe one day ill change over to the 13b-re, still my favorite swap, and hey at least now i have a full turbo driveline to work with...if i ever do go with the swap.

Thanks for everything guys your input was great.

Now lets see some more pics of your 13b-re swaps?

 

I could use a little help over at my turbo 2 s5 newbie question thread...

I will be updating it with pics to try to figure out what turbo i got and all ect.

Thanks

 

Mazda calls it a 20B-REW on their website. MAZDA:Engineering History | The Rotary Engine