drft_180sx

Has anyone had any problem as far as fitment goes? the catback is not wanting to join up to my Racing Beat Presilencer....hrmmm... any ideas? Comments, or feedback?

Jahan

Kai

Mine isn't even in the bumper cut-out, but that also depends on what is upstream of it.

With the stock parts, it was nearly even. With a Bonez race pipe, it is a bit to the right, and with a Pacesetter header it rubs against right side of the bumper cut-out.

It's not a big deal, it looks fine even if it isn't perfectly even.

drft_180sx

oh no, i was reffering to the studs on my presilencer dont line up with the holes in the catback. line i cant get them connected....

kungfuroy

iTrader: (6)

grind out the holes to make it fit

Jager

iTrader: (10)

Yeah, take a grinder to it a little bit.

88GT

It's not the cat-back. The RB unit is made to mate with RB products. See their website for explanation.
As others have said.. it can be made to line up but won't simply "bolt on"

drft_180sx

ok since i have everyones attention...i broke a bolt off the presilenser taking off my rusted crappy stock catback...

should i just weld the presilencer and the catback (front piece of the corksport) together? would i have to worry about leaks?

ultradef

why don't you just use a new bolt? i don't think i've ever removed an exhaust and not broken at least one bolt...

--MAstermind--

i been lucky and i can remove my entire exhuast in like 15min i swear without breaking of those original bolts...accept the damn downpipe to turbo bolts..i lost those and got new ones!..i had the same problem i used my OLd stock midpipe had that welded to the stock cat and connected my downpipe on it...i KNOW its getting restricted from hell i wanna run open downpipe BUT i hit fuel cut already..but once i install that damn FCD...lmao good luck with ur exhuast bud!

rxse7en

Kelly Quad ownz. Say "Hi" to the Park Bench for me.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

And the stock cat-back can bolt onto their header/presilencer combinition or downpipe/presilencer.

Thats entirely not the issue.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

You should be using all new parts anyways, spending 50 cents for bolts saves ALOT of time .

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Yeah new bolts save shitloads of time compared to old rusted 80/90's bolts.

I am running RB 2.5 DP to 2.5 Presilencer to the Corksport 2.5 to 3inch single and it bolts up perfectly fine.

drft_180sx

yeah but you guys dont understand....it not a bolt, im sorry, its the stud on the presilencer i broke... the is brand new (1 year old) you cant just replace it, its part of the unit....thats why i need some suggestions

and kelly used to own, now the deli is only open till 12 so kelly sucks like all the other quads..

adrock3217

You broke a stud. So?

Drill + Stud = HOLE.

Hole + new bolt = WINNER!!!!

Ruffryder_29

Welding it together wouldnt be a bad thing with the exception of the weld breaking all the time and having to re weld it. So it kinda depends on how hard you drive it. I had to weld my catback at the rear until i could get a new rear for the exahaust but the weld broke 3 times in 3 months. So that would be a temporary fix. I agree with everone saying drill then new bolts. Better and more reliable

Jager

iTrader: (10)

Which stud?

88GT

It's not a "stock cat back" he's talking about and I didn't mention one either. But anyway I think drft180sx get's the picture.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

I'm saying what you said before was faulty.

A Corksport cat-back can go to any location after where the stock cat runs, which is where the RB header/combiniations end. Its how people somehow can bolt it right up to their stock cat-back.

Its two different sections (cat-back and everything before), on their site they say their header won't bolt up to a stock cat or aftermarket equivalent (bolt in). You need their presilencer or something custom to make it work.

I have the exact same setup. If I wanted I can use the RB header/presilencer with any cat-back including my stock. Same as I can slap my Corksport on any other RB header/presilencer, bonez superflo system, or pretty much anythign that ends before the stock cat-back locations (which IS everything is produced aftermarket).

Kai

D'oh, I misread your first post. I'll be attaching my CS to an RB downpipe and presilencer in the near future, so your problem worries me now.

I have my RB presilencer on my lap right now... those studs do rust up fast, don't they? Did you shear the stud off even with the gasket surface, or can you grab it with vice grips? They look like they're just screwed in and can be replaced like a normal stud.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

Upgrading the stock exhaust system on the 2nd generation RX-7 is going to be the very first thing you’ll want to do in your quest for a more responsive, powerful car. Even with the wildest intake and ported motor, you won’t begin to see the true benefits of the other modifications until the exhaust has been improved.

The exhaust system itself is going to consist of basically two separate components that can either be upgraded at the same time or separately without too much trouble. The first section is the catalytic converter system which consists of everything from the stock exhaust manifold on the motor to the very last main catalytic converter which bolts to the y-pipe. The second section consists of the y-pipe and two mufflers which end at the rear of the vehicle. This last section is commonly referred to as the “cat-back” system meaning everything after the catalytic converters.

On the stock exhaust system, the items that rob the most power are the catalytic converters. For racing purposes, the easiest solution is to replace the complete cat system with a race pipe. If you drive your car on the street though, some form of catalytic converter must remain intact to keep the car street legal. The trick is finding a catalytic converter that flows better than the stock converters, keeps the car emissions legal, and can handle the intense heat of the rotary exhaust gases. In our testing of aftermarket cats, we found that the only one capable of meeting all of our performance and reliability requirements are the Bönez catalytic converters.

Another important factor to remember when looking at upgraded exhaust systems is the provision for allowing the 6 port actuators to work properly. These actuators open up the auxiliary intake ports at higher RPMs for a broad powerband. Since the 86-88 models utilize exhaust backpressure to open the ports, we place a sensing tube at the point of highest exhaust pulse intensity to allow the ports to work properly. This feature, among other subtle “attention to details” features, have all been developed through our extensive knowledge of the RX-7. Something that mail order houses simply cannot provide.


Thats for 88GT.

drft_180sx

REally Kai?? do you think i can try to use vice grips and just unscrew the stud out?

and for the ppl telling me to just drill a hole and use a bolt, its hard to explain. But heres a pic. I dont think you can drill straight through, without drilling into the internal cavity of the silencer..

[IMG]untitled.bmp[/IMG]

Kai

It's worth a try, that's how I remove broken studs.

On second thought, you know how it bulges on the sides? There might be a bolt head under there, the studs may be pressed into the flange from behind. If that's the case it will never come out.

Send an email off to RB and see what they say. I doubt anyone around here has cut open a presilencer to find out.

TonyD89

iTrader: (10)

Judging by your picture, your pre silencer seems to be a casting. If it is, the stud will probably screw out. Keep in mind that it may be as rusted as the other side. Try Kroil. If it appears to be welded from tube and aplate for a flange, it could also be a screw out stud. Welded together exausts can use other ways to affix a stud such as press-in. But they are not usually welded-in. In any case, cutting-off flush, drilling out, and re-tapping are all an option.

ronyrx7

^what he said