Converting PS to a manual steering rack
#1
Converting PS to a manual steering rack...simple swap?
I am looking to eliminate my Power Steering System on my S4 SE/TII. I don't wanna be a cheap ******* and just take out the pump and call it a day. I have access to a very inexpensive remanufactured 86-88 Manual Steering rack. What modifications (if any) would i have to make to swap over the racks? Is it all bolt in? I dont wanna have to change the steering column to match the rack, so if thats the case ill keep PS. Let me know guys.....thanks
Last edited by WannaSeeMyWankel; 11-01-04 at 09:41 PM.
#2
I was a cheap ******* and took out the pump....but the key is to drain the fluid and plugs the feed/return/cooler lines into the rack. It works great, and isn't hard at all to turn if your used to it. The only advantage to using a manual rack is the different ratios that make the wheel go around farther from lock to lock, but make it easier to turn. I myself perfer the idea of quicker responding ratios, but I've never driven a rx-7 with a actual manual rack.
I think the rack would be a bolt in should you choose to go that route, but I think you need the tie rod ends off a manual rack rx-7 as well IIRC.
I think the rack would be a bolt in should you choose to go that route, but I think you need the tie rod ends off a manual rack rx-7 as well IIRC.
#3
If you don't want to mess with the different tie-rod lengths between the two racks (the right rod, IIRC), which would entail aligning everything after you're done, you can do the power rack the way I did:
First off, jack the front, remove the sway bar, underbelly pan, and the 4 radiator bolts (you're going to have to push the rad up about 2" to remove the rack)
1) remove the rack from the car, along with all lines (don't remove any lock nuts from the tie-rods). Pull the rack out sideways, towards the driver's side.
2) remove the hydraulic servo valve from the rack (FSM will help you here)
3) drain all fluid from the rack/bores
4) pack graphite-based lubricant into each actuator bore by turning the rack from the servo valve spindle, and letting the vac created draw the lubricant in until both bores are full at approx mid travel
5) remove all internal o-rings/rings, and the center needle bearing from the servo valve (needle bearing is inside the housing for the valve). Don't touch the two ball bearings at either end. The needle bearing must be removed, otherwise the needles will fall out and jam the servo valve.
6) repack the servo valve and two ball bearings with bearing grease and reinstall valve.
7) for the graphite-based lubricant overflow when rack is actuated, I installed two 1 1/2' long clear hoses to the two nipples on the rack (otherwise over time you'll lose most of the lubricant when performing stop-to-stop turns), and ran them up to the side, near the left frame rail8
8) for the open nipples on the valve body portion, pack with bearing grease
9) reinstall rack
I've been running with this setup for about 9000 miles now, and the road feel is awesome...
First off, jack the front, remove the sway bar, underbelly pan, and the 4 radiator bolts (you're going to have to push the rad up about 2" to remove the rack)
1) remove the rack from the car, along with all lines (don't remove any lock nuts from the tie-rods). Pull the rack out sideways, towards the driver's side.
2) remove the hydraulic servo valve from the rack (FSM will help you here)
3) drain all fluid from the rack/bores
4) pack graphite-based lubricant into each actuator bore by turning the rack from the servo valve spindle, and letting the vac created draw the lubricant in until both bores are full at approx mid travel
5) remove all internal o-rings/rings, and the center needle bearing from the servo valve (needle bearing is inside the housing for the valve). Don't touch the two ball bearings at either end. The needle bearing must be removed, otherwise the needles will fall out and jam the servo valve.
6) repack the servo valve and two ball bearings with bearing grease and reinstall valve.
7) for the graphite-based lubricant overflow when rack is actuated, I installed two 1 1/2' long clear hoses to the two nipples on the rack (otherwise over time you'll lose most of the lubricant when performing stop-to-stop turns), and ran them up to the side, near the left frame rail8
8) for the open nipples on the valve body portion, pack with bearing grease
9) reinstall rack
I've been running with this setup for about 9000 miles now, and the road feel is awesome...
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DumpHouse (02-22-24)
#4
Whats the difference in feel between the PS rack setup as described above and a manual steering rack? I have a Pontiac Fiero right now while I'm working on my never ending project, and that has a manual steering gear reduction box. I love the way that feels, parallel parking is a bitch, but when your rolling the car feels so much more attached to the road. Its like the difference between an automatic and a 5 speed...with a manual, your so much more in control of the car, thats how it is with a manual rack
#6
Originally Posted by 2ndGenV8RX-7
what is the problem with PS? can some give me a good reason for it to go?
If you love PS but want to actually be able to remove your spark plugs without losing forearm skin (foreskin?) you could look in to a electric PS pump that is coming out on a few small GM cars.
Personally I just took the PS belt off mine to try it out. Only while sitting still is it hard to turn and I'm a wimp. No big deal.
BTW Wayne88N/A that is an awesome write up. Definitely what I am going to do.
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#8
Originally Posted by WannaSeeMyWankel
Whats the difference in feel between the PS rack setup as described above and a manual steering rack?
#9
Is it all bolt up with the manual steering rack? I know the tie rod ends are the same, but im talking about the part that goes to the steering column and the fame mounts and stuff like that
#10
I have the manual rack in my Tii, I have driven a few other cars with non powered, power steering racks(hoses and pump removed), it doesn't compare... You can park and 3 point turn a manual rack car with one arm, not a fun chore with a dead power rack..That little change in turns ratio, makes a huge difference in low speed turning.. The brackets that hold the rack or IIRC one of them anyway, is different, but otherwise it is bolt up..Max
#11
The power steering is only goo for parall parking and in town deiving.After 20mph the power steering stops working.When you take your rx's out for a drive, before 20mph turn the steering wheel back and forth.Then seppd up to 20 and after 20mph and feel the diffrence.Make sure there are no cops around when you are doing this lol.
#12
Originally Posted by mazda se
The power steering is only goo for parall parking and in town deiving.After 20mph the power steering stops working.When you take your rx's out for a drive, before 20mph turn the steering wheel back and forth.Then seppd up to 20 and after 20mph and feel the diffrence.Make sure there are no cops around when you are doing this lol.
#14
Say you're driving your manual rack car briskly, and you encounter understeer.
Isn't it going to rip the wheel out of your hands when they hook back up? I'm thinking about converting mine, but this is what's holding me back.
Isn't it going to rip the wheel out of your hands when they hook back up? I'm thinking about converting mine, but this is what's holding me back.
#15
My Fiero has manual steering and it does jerk more than it would with power steering, but not drastically where you're gonna lose control, if anything you'll be able to control the car better
#16
Originally Posted by N1XRR
Not true. FC's have 3-stage pumps. It has a different level of assit for 0-18mph (I think), 19-45 mph (again, I'm not sure the exact numbers) and 46+. All three are very noticable.
Not ALL FC's are set like this the s5 gtu had a cheaper version of the pump that was rpm based, not speed based like the nicer pumps on the GXL's and Turbo 2.