Waz up guys? I have searched high and low and still can't get a 100% clear idea on turbo'ing a 6-port 13B.

I am just finishing up breaking-in my NA 13B 6port. I had Kevin Rotary Resurrection (Morristown, TN) Re-build, port, replace old parts, and fully remove all emissions on my motor. That extra "butter-fly" thingy majig was removed from the intake manifold (i think thats supposed to be an issue with turbo charging NA 6Ps) along with the 6port accuators removed (all ports open all the time. Think of it as a "High-output" NA 13B).

I guess my question is: How much more than a turbo manifold, turbo, custom down-pipe/exhaust, bigger injectors/fuel pump, oil lines, intercooler, and tuning do I need to run a turbo on my fully rebuilt/custom-built 13B 6P set up?

Any hints/tips would be awesome!

 

Short Answer:
A lot more.

i just learned the hard way after 6 agonizing months..

if you do go through with it, id suggest to pull the motor and do it all outside the car. i wish i would have right from the start. or bought a full 13BT and been done with it.

i ran into tons of problems with Vac Leaks and ****, especially on the LIM to block area.

 

read Aaron Cake's site, it has a lot of info

 

heres wut i got on my na turbo motor

ALL t2 electronics that means injectors ecu, afm, boost sensor, but modded na wiring harness, port matched t2 intake manifolds, t2 hood, stock IC, t2 turbo and manifold. t2 throttle cable, rtek 1.7 w 720cc injectors, walbro 255, and a safc for finer tuning. then Custom oil drain taped into oil pan, and custom oil feed taped into where stock oil pressure gauge goes.

 

Turbo charging an NA motor is generally not a good, or cost-effective way of gaining power.

If you are still keen on doing it there are plenty or resources to help you to avoid/minimize the common mistakes that are made time and time again.

 

Well...

You have a brand new engine and want more power. In this case it makes very little sense to swap in a used TII engine of questionable condition.

If you are good at fabrication and know what you are doing, then turbocharging this engine will work out very well. If you don't have the ability, then it's not a good idea.

Plenty of writeups exist for the various methods. Check the FAQ.

 

Did my "needed" parts list sound on the right track? And if so, with what I have listed would 6-7lbs. of boost be safe?

 

you are on the right track for that method

the only thing that bugs me if u use a NA ecu is the fact it does not retard timing for positive boost pressure...

in my opinion i like my method of port matching t2 intake manifolds to match the 6 port block, and then running t2 electronics.

 

I'm running 10psi with 780 sec, walbro 255, 3" exhaust, no emissions, Rtek 1.5, and all t2 electrics(ECU, AFM, Harness).

Timing and tuning is a big part of a "high compression" turbo.

 

my list of parts needed


Turbo II turbocharger
Turbo II exhaust manifold
Turbo II wastegate actuator (usually all 3 together)
Turbo II stock turbo oil/water lines with banjo bolts, etc.
Custom oil feed line (some brass fittings and rubber hose)
Custom water feed/return (same)
FMIC core
Ebay IC Piping kit
Blitz (personal preference) Blow Off Valve
Turbo II AFM
Turbo II UIM/Throttle Body
Turbo II LIM (must be ported to match 6port block)
Turbo II Injectors (4x550cc, or 2x550cc/2x720cc)
Turbo II Fuel Rails
Turbo II waterpump housing (needed for coolant return)
Turbo II waterpump
Turbo II pressure(MAP) sensor
Turbo II ECU/ Apexi SAFC (or just Rtek 2.1-and PDA to control it)
Turbo II Throttle cable
Turbo II Front Cover (needed for oil return)
FD Fuel pump (could use TII-about the same price used)
Aftermarket Downpipe (Racing Beat)
Catback / muffler
Custom exhaust (to piece it all together)
Upgraded clutch
Boost/Vacuum gauge and pod
Wideband 02 sensor (not necessary but HIGHLY recommended)
E-Fan and Relay kit (if going with FMIC)
RacingBeat/Knightsports Fuel Cut Defencer (if not using Rtek)

Gaskets / RTV Sealant / JB weld for port matching
New Vac Lines/Nipples
Remove Emissions (need blockoff plates)
Remove Airpump
Remove clutch fan (if FMIC)

and the list goes on...

 

Half that stuff you're going to use for any build up or t2 swap so, it's not a determining factor. The t2 water pump housing isn't neccesary if you get rid of the BAC. I just used the water feed and return for the BAC.