Compression
07-26-06, 12:54 PM
#2
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remove EGI fuse under hood, remove a plug from rear rotor, take compression gauge and remove the valve so that the tester does not hold pressure it will allow the needle to just bounce. have someone turn the key while you watch the gauge looking for even similar numbers, three nice even bounces then three nice even bounces on the front rotor.
1 high then 2 low is an apex seal
2 high one low is a side seal
0 can be apex seals or water seal, bad housings, etc.
1 high then 2 low is an apex seal
2 high one low is a side seal
0 can be apex seals or water seal, bad housings, etc.
07-26-06, 01:21 PM
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ok ill do this in a little bit...
The thing is past few days ive been trying to figure out what is wrong with my car and why it wont start, and it all started after i got my car back from rx7store getting my fuelpump walbro 255/720sec./WG port/3inc hal lthe way back/boostcontroller/SAFC...rtek is currently being shipped. ALso shoudldt there be a ground coming off my neg. and the ground on the leading coil be conencted...? When i got my car the black ground wire on the leading coil was just a wire so me and my buddy decided to add a loop so we could hook it up. i conencted it to the strut tower and I also connected one to my neg. on the battery when i started the car it ran like ****...Wanted to stall from stops,and idle was horrible.????? so right now i took them both back off...Could I have possibly fried anything.....
The thing is past few days ive been trying to figure out what is wrong with my car and why it wont start, and it all started after i got my car back from rx7store getting my fuelpump walbro 255/720sec./WG port/3inc hal lthe way back/boostcontroller/SAFC...rtek is currently being shipped. ALso shoudldt there be a ground coming off my neg. and the ground on the leading coil be conencted...? When i got my car the black ground wire on the leading coil was just a wire so me and my buddy decided to add a loop so we could hook it up. i conencted it to the strut tower and I also connected one to my neg. on the battery when i started the car it ran like ****...Wanted to stall from stops,and idle was horrible.????? so right now i took them both back off...Could I have possibly fried anything.....
07-26-06, 02:21 PM
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6) hold the valve on the side of the tester open
7) have your friend crank the car over for 5+ seconds.
8) observe the needle bounces. You should see 3 in succession without skips, even bounces, in roughly the 30-35psi range.
9) let out on the valve now, and let the tester reach an overall compression value for all 3 faces(highest of 3 will be displayed). 115+ is like new, 100-115 is healthy, 90-100 is getting weak(1 year or less in most cases) below 90 could blow at any moment.
10) repeat for opposite rotor. Note difference in overall compression between rotors, which should be
When it says hold the valve on side open...does that mean push down on it and when it says let out o nthe valve does that mean let go of it????
7) have your friend crank the car over for 5+ seconds.
8) observe the needle bounces. You should see 3 in succession without skips, even bounces, in roughly the 30-35psi range.
9) let out on the valve now, and let the tester reach an overall compression value for all 3 faces(highest of 3 will be displayed). 115+ is like new, 100-115 is healthy, 90-100 is getting weak(1 year or less in most cases) below 90 could blow at any moment.
10) repeat for opposite rotor. Note difference in overall compression between rotors, which should be
When it says hold the valve on side open...does that mean push down on it and when it says let out o nthe valve does that mean let go of it????
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