alritzer

Are you sure the timing marks are aligned? Maybe you could align the first mark on the lower pulley, re-stab the CAS, remove the top cover on the CAS and get a pic so everybody can see if its really timed corrrectly.

wmtil

I will have to search about the 6 port actuators cuz i do not know how to hook them up.

I will remove the reservoir and pump.
My dad said the same thing about the plates leaking and the bolts, i was just using what i had around the garage but i havent had time to make it to the store for new ones yet. Do you think RTV would work?

As far as the catch can goes i have seen a few online but i have not ordered anything yet but i am going to get one, i looked at the double alt pulley as well.

I ordered a known working used one. the brand new ones were scary expensive.

Thanks for the help and suggestions!

wmtil

I did finally get it timed correctly. i will take a pic of it when i get the AFM in later this week. super busy at the moment.

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

Second on the ACV. I used the mazdatrix plate and gasket and the bitch still leaked. Cleaned it off used a new gasket with hylomar on both sides then put rtv around the plate against the manifold. Seems to have taken care of that.

I hope you used Fuel Injection hose not just fuel hose.

HAILERS2

The blockoff plate material is plenty thick for your application. You have a non turbo car therefore no boost/pressure acting againt the plates.

If it were a turbo car I'd still think the ones you have will work. They look to be at least .065 - .080" thick.

Go to Autozone or the equiv. Buy a roll of gasket paper for two bucks. Cut it to fit your plates and install. No RTV required but use a dab if you feel better about it.

wmtil

I actually did use fuel injection hose I didnt know i needed too but someone at Autozone told me too.

I will be buying the gasket paper this week as well.

Thanks for the tips.

Is the clear tank in the corner the sub zero assist reservoir and pump 3vil was talking about?

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

That looks like where it was on my old s4.

3vil

iTrader: (4)

yeah that's it.

wmtil

Allright cool. Thanks.

wmtil

UPDATE: I got my known working used AFM in today. I installed it and the car is still hard to crank. when it does finally start i have to keep my foot on the gas just a little bit to keep it idling. I have adjusted the idle screw for over an hour to try to get it right but still nothing. I also triple checked the CAS to make sure it was stabbed correctly, which it was. I will continue to look for vacuum leaks for now.

While cranking to get it started my temp gauge goes all the way up and sits there. When it does start it never moves. It only goes back down after the car shuts off.

Also after it ran for a few minutes with me slightly pressing the pedal i noticed some white smoke coming out of the engine bay. It smells like antifreeze and it is coming from somewhere around the exhaust manifold. I checked for leaks but cannot find any. Its still hot so i havent been able to look very well.

I tried to be as descriptive as i could but im headed out at the moment. If anything is unclear just ask. Thanks in advance for any tips or advice on my problems.

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

You should REALLY consider putting the BACV back on. Without it the car will NOT want to hold an idle till the engine gets up to temp assuming you have everything adjusted properly. The cold idle wax even in the closed position always keeps the throttle blades slightly cracked(at least mine did, you'll probably have to end up playing with the throttle stop on the tb by the firewall and adjust that to keep the throttle slightly open, get it to hold a slightly low idle with the top idle adjust meant screw closed. Once you got that adjust the top idle screw to get it to hold around 800rpms when warmed...oh yea and put the damn BACV back on.

Check the heater core lines in the engine bay, The radiator tee's off at the bottom hose, follow the smaller diameter(which is on the passengers side) back to the firewall and look for leaks. It is not uncommon for those to leak.

wmtil

Cool. I will try that tomorrow. I will probably try to adjust the TB before i put the BACV back on. I think one of my plates has a small gap in it or something. I ran out of time before i could check it. tomorrow will be totally dedicated to the car though haha.

Rx-7fetish

I realize this has nothing to do with your problems, but its a suggestion for when the car is on the road. Get a yahoo belt, right now with all the stuff you have removed you have one belt running the alternator and water pump, if your driving down the road and that thing snaps your gonna cook your motor. The yahoo belt stretches around the water pump and main pulley. And check to make sure your water temp gauge sensor is plugged in. Unplugged will cause gauge to do that if i remember correctly. Also where in NC are you located? I live about 30 minutes north of the state line, if your close i cold come help you.

wmtil

I have heard that from several people so that is pretty high up on the to do list. Im actually in Charlotte so not too close for you but if i get really super stuck i would definitely split your cost of gas to get down here. I will let you know after i try a few more things though. Thanks a lot man!

Rx-7fetish

no problem, and put BAC on BEFORE you try to adjust throttle body.

wmtil

Yeah spikederailed said the same thing. I followed some really good instructions i found on how to remove everything but i guess that proves you cant trust everything on the internet I like talking to people more anyway you get more current info. Thanks.