Complete emissions removal
#28
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https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/does-anybody-make-block-heater-rotary-621578/
I was just seeing if that could be it.
Last edited by wmtil; 01-13-11 at 11:05 PM. Reason: left out a link
#29
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take some pics of your engine bay. did you install your block off plates correctly and not use any silicone/rtv when you put your manifolds back together? If it only runs for "4 seconds" you have no clue whether or not you have a vacuum leak.
#30
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I found this post about it.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=621578
I was just seeing if that could be it.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=621578
I was just seeing if that could be it.
Look man, you have something wrong with your car. When you find the problem and fix it, the car will start and run. I know it is frustrating, but that is where you are.
Seriously, good luck.
#31
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i beleive this is your issue. i am currently having this issue, kinda. right now your engine is most likely flooded. go unplug your fuel pump and crank the motor over, this will burn off the flood, i installed a fuel cutoff switch partly because of this. second, when you start the car help it idle at about 1500 RPMS for about 45 seconds. if it still wont run on its own after that i cant help you, it is believed that my tII has a cutoff circuit somewhere in the injector wiring that will cut off all power to them when you turn it off and for a short time after initially started to help prevent flooding. this is what i was told by my local rotary mechanic. he's been doin this for 25+ years.
#32
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i beleive this is your issue. i am currently having this issue, kinda. right now your engine is most likely flooded. go unplug your fuel pump and crank the motor over, this will burn off the flood, i installed a fuel cutoff switch partly because of this. second, when you start the car help it idle at about 1500 RPMS for about 45 seconds. if it still wont run on its own after that i cant help you, it is believed that my tII has a cutoff circuit somewhere in the injector wiring that will cut off all power to them when you turn it off and for a short time after initially started to help prevent flooding. this is what i was told by my local rotary mechanic. he's been doin this for 25+ years.
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Pictures will be up soon. Cant find camera charger. I did do all the plates correctly. I did use rtv on the manifold.
#34
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i beleive this is your issue. i am currently having this issue, kinda. right now your engine is most likely flooded. go unplug your fuel pump and crank the motor over, this will burn off the flood, i installed a fuel cutoff switch partly because of this. second, when you start the car help it idle at about 1500 RPMS for about 45 seconds. if it still wont run on its own after that i cant help you, it is believed that my tII has a cutoff circuit somewhere in the injector wiring that will cut off all power to them when you turn it off and for a short time after initially started to help prevent flooding. this is what i was told by my local rotary mechanic. he's been doin this for 25+ years.
If thats what 25 years experience has passed on, i must be close to be getting a doctorate if i've only been doing it for 4 years...
#35
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That doesn't make sense.... If there is a "cutoff circuit" that cuts power to the injectors for some time after you start... You wouldn't be able to rev the thing. No injectors = no fuel = no go.
If thats what 25 years experience has passed on, i must be close to be getting a doctorate if i've only been doing it for 4 years...
If thats what 25 years experience has passed on, i must be close to be getting a doctorate if i've only been doing it for 4 years...
Im just messing. im sure you know what youre doing.
welcome to the forum btw.
#37
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I FINALLY FIGURED OUT WHAT WAS WRONG!!!!!
Previously i had tested my afm to see if it was working. I had read the incorrect information (on another site) on how to test it. I did some more searching on here and i found another thread about it. So i tested it according to the new info and it was bad. I triple checked it and searched for several more threads on here to confirm. With all that said i can actually unplug my current bad AFM and start her up. She idles perfectly now and i was able to adjust all the timing issues i was having before as well. I can rev at all but that is obviously because the AFM is not plugged in. So hopefully she will be on the road by the end of the week!!! Thanks for all the help everyone. I will still post some pictures so everyone can see what i did.
Previously i had tested my afm to see if it was working. I had read the incorrect information (on another site) on how to test it. I did some more searching on here and i found another thread about it. So i tested it according to the new info and it was bad. I triple checked it and searched for several more threads on here to confirm. With all that said i can actually unplug my current bad AFM and start her up. She idles perfectly now and i was able to adjust all the timing issues i was having before as well. I can rev at all but that is obviously because the AFM is not plugged in. So hopefully she will be on the road by the end of the week!!! Thanks for all the help everyone. I will still post some pictures so everyone can see what i did.
#40
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It does sound peculiar but on an S4 the fuel check connector would have to be purposely jumpered or the Brown wire that supplies a necessary ground to the Circuit Opening relay is accidentally grounded or the wire (B/W) which is supposed to supply voltage to the same relay only when the key is put to start is actually sending voltage to the relay when the key is put to on as well.
#41
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That doesn't make sense.... If there is a "cutoff circuit" that cuts power to the injectors for some time after you start... You wouldn't be able to rev the thing. No injectors = no fuel = no go.
If thats what 25 years experience has passed on, i must be close to be getting a doctorate if i've only been doing it for 4 years...
If thats what 25 years experience has passed on, i must be close to be getting a doctorate if i've only been doing it for 4 years...
Series four do NOT have that feature unless you buy a RTEK 2.0 for your series four that incorporates that feature.
#42
Rotary Freak
I recently purchased a 1987 NA. I was having some severe idle problems so I completely removed all of the emission control system to eliminate what the problem could be. I blocked off all openings and put caps on all vacuum ports. Now unfortunately she will only start about 1 out of 10 times and only run for about 4 seconds. I have fuel, spark, and cannot find any vacuum leaks.
Also A buddy pulled out my crank angle sensor without me knowing. I found a thread on reinstalling it and adjusting the timing so im working on that. Could that cause the whole problem? Or could it be something else? Im really wanting to get this done soon. Thanks in advance for the help.
Also A buddy pulled out my crank angle sensor without me knowing. I found a thread on reinstalling it and adjusting the timing so im working on that. Could that cause the whole problem? Or could it be something else? Im really wanting to get this done soon. Thanks in advance for the help.
Make sure that the WATER THERMO SENSOR on the back of the water pump housing is connected to the harness and you might remove the plug and make sure one of the two contacts inside that electrical plug are not pushed back resulting in no contact with the sensors pins.
A disconnected water thermo sensor will result in very difficult starts in cold weather and even if it finally starts.........it won't run very well til the engine water gets fully hot. It's writtten.
#43
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The series FIVE have a ECU circuit that will cutoff the fuel injectors IF.........the ECU sees the START signal from the start circuit wiring........and the TPS is reading full value (your foot held to the floor causes the TPS to go full value). After the engine starts the key is put back to ON from START and the engine keeps running.
Series four do NOT have that feature unless you buy a RTEK 2.0 for your series four that incorporates that feature.
Series four do NOT have that feature unless you buy a RTEK 2.0 for your series four that incorporates that feature.
#44
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That doesn't make sense.... If there is a "cutoff circuit" that cuts power to the injectors for some time after you start... You wouldn't be able to rev the thing. No injectors = no fuel = no go.
If thats what 25 years experience has passed on, i must be close to be getting a doctorate if i've only been doing it for 4 years...
If thats what 25 years experience has passed on, i must be close to be getting a doctorate if i've only been doing it for 4 years...
#46
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She is still running without the afm so tomorrow i will post a video of it. I ordered a new one and i will post another video when it comes in.
Thanks for all the help!
Thanks for all the help!
#47
Smells like 2 stroke.
Before any of you make fun of him, I've seen worse! That looks good for having been done in a hurry.
But you should really fix your 6-PI
But you should really fix your 6-PI
Last edited by DaBrkddy; 01-22-11 at 01:04 AM. Reason: Fix it!
#48
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#50
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- your 6-port actuators need to be hooked back up to the cat so that they can open properly. otherwise you're killing the power potential at high rpms
- since you pulled all the emissions stuff off, you might as well get rid of the sub zero assist reservoir and pump.
- i'd be worried about developing a leak around the ACV block off plate, since the area is so big and you used such thin sheet metal for the making the plates.
- also, and this is if i were you, go down to the hardware store and buy the proper bolts needed to hold your plates down. it looks pretty tacky with all those spacers.
- what have you done as far as a oil catch can?
- have you thought about either a double sheave alt pulley, or running a yoohoo belt, to prevent waterpump issues at high rpms?
- and when you say the "new" AFM, you mean a known working used one right? please tell me you didn't order a brand new afm
Last edited by 3vil; 01-23-11 at 01:39 PM. Reason: one more idea...