wmtil

I recently purchased a 1987 NA. I was having some severe idle problems so I completely removed all of the emission control system to eliminate what the problem could be. I blocked off all openings and put caps on all vacuum ports. Now unfortunately she will only start about 1 out of 10 times and only run for about 4 seconds. I have fuel, spark, and cannot find any vacuum leaks.

Also A buddy pulled out my crank angle sensor without me knowing. I found a thread on reinstalling it and adjusting the timing so im working on that. Could that cause the whole problem? Or could it be something else? Im really wanting to get this done soon. Thanks in advance for the help.

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

*sigh*

you do know that some of the stuff is required for the engine to work properly right ?

RX-7tII88

iTrader: (1)

What did you do with the thermo-wax system? You could have issues there.
You can adjust the cam: LOOK I would go through this emissions delete write
up as well: LOOK It could also be the water thermo sensor near the water pump.
It has alot to do with start up. And check harder for vacuum leaks. Fuel injector
gromets, UIM/LIM gaskets.

wmtil

Well i followed this write up on it http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...s_removal.html

could you tell me what i need?

wmtil

Before I took it off i did all the adjustments on the thermo system and nothing helped.

wmtil

This is a post from Aaron Cake on one of my previous threads.

So Im pretty sure what i did isnt causing the problem. Im open to everyone's opinions though. Thanks again.

wmtil

Anyone else have any ideas?

1SWEET7

iTrader: (1)

You say your buddy pulled out your CAS without you knowing. Some buddy. It sounds like that could have something to do with it.

wmtil

He didnt know what he was doing but oh well. I figured out the correct way to reinstall it so i did (in the snow!) but it still not starting. I guess it could just be too cold for now. I just hate waiting!

RX-7tII88

iTrader: (1)

Did you pull off the cover to ensure that it is aligned properly?

wmtil

Yes i did. I checked the markings in this picture and with the cap off made sure that the top did move when i put it in.

LunchboxCritter

iTrader: (9)

Have you compression checked your engine?

All intake hoses connected?

AFM plugged in?

Got any pictures, they could help others to diagnose your problem.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Neither do you.

You obviously have screwed the pooch here because you were too unskilled/careless/impatient to properly diagnose and fix your car. Now you still have the original problem that prevented your car from running right. You now also have extra problems created by you being too unskilled/careless/impatient when you removed the emissions.

You cannot fix problems by just ripping out systems.

If you are going to get help on this forum, you are going to need to give more information than "I followed the RR.com guide".

Try using the trouble shooting guide in the FSM or from the Haynes Manual. Get some specific symptoms, then come back for help.

Good luck.

HoustonMS3

Stupid question, did you re connect your mass air flow sensor... what you are describing will happen if you did not.

wmtil

All righty then....

Well, taking out the emissions system did fix one of my problems. It used to start and rev to 4000 rpms then die. Now when it starts and goes to a little under 1000.

Im curious to know what more information you need. You can always just ask.

And I have the complete FSM and I followed all of the steps it has on timing.

wmtil

I did check all of those. We just got a bunch of snow so i will try to get some pictures in a little bit to put up.

Thanks for your help.

wmtil

Yes i did. I checked all the pins according to the FSM as well and all of them worked so its not bad either.


Thanks.

RockLobster

iTrader: (7)

If you are not able to get the car started, warmed up, and running at idle without any throttle inputs then how were you able to "follow all of the steps it has on timing". Were you able to get the marks to show up with a timing light when you could get the car started?

I would say you stabbed your CAS one or more teeth off, it is very easy to do even when you follow their instructions. I have installed a few and have yet to get it right on the first stab. This will cause the car to not start or start, run crappy, and die because the timing is well off.

wmtil

I was unclear sorry. I was able to follow the steps up to using the timing light. I cant get it to run long enough. Thats my main problem.

I will try re stabbing the CAS a few teeth to either side.

wmtil

Ok well i re stabbed the CAS a few teeth to each side. I got it in a spot where it back fires a little bit while cranking but thats about it.

wmtil

After a little more reading i noticed a lot of people say that these cars dont like the cold. Would an oil dipstick heater help with that? Does anyone on here use one?

wmtil

She is still not running. CAS has been re stabbed correctly over and over again. Compression has been checked. No vacuum leaks or loss of compression. Brand new spark plugs were installed and i have fuel. I tested my AFM plugs and they were fine as well. so.... im pretty much stuck for now. After i can atleast get her running i will post a build thread. but we will see how long that takes

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

u probably messed something up during your clueless removal. Most likey some wires pr u simply flooded.

A properly running engine never afraid of cold. My engine has a dying oil seal. If i dont start her for a week its gonna smoke like hell. And i didnt start her for a month i was still be able to start her just 2 nights ago at 20 degrees. So u might want to start checking wires.

john ward

iTrader: (7)

probably flooded by now.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I have not found that to be the case.
My S5 NA has never failed to start, regardless of ambient temp.