COld solder joints
08-07-04, 08:28 PM
#1
Mechanical Engineering
Thread Starter
COld solder joints
hey all
ok, i have had my s4 for about a week now, and alot of electrical things dont work, and ive been reading around seeing that some problems are caused by bad solder connections in the CPU. what kinda problems does this usually fix?
[signature removed- failed to resize, and the signature is way too big]
ok, i have had my s4 for about a week now, and alot of electrical things dont work, and ive been reading around seeing that some problems are caused by bad solder connections in the CPU. what kinda problems does this usually fix?
[signature removed- failed to resize, and the signature is way too big]
Last edited by Icemark; 08-08-04 at 10:16 PM.
08-08-04, 09:49 AM
#5
Mechanical Engineering
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by HAILERS
List the things that don't work and that list will give the rest of us a clue about what item needs rework. Thank you.
well my horn, dash lights arent illuminating fully, headlights dont come on, and the coolant is low message comes on when it isnt
08-08-04, 10:14 AM
#6
HAILERS
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The first thread on this site has something to do with Frequently Asked Questions. Go to it. Click it. DO NOT READ ANY OF IT. Just keep paging down on that thread until you see a jpg showing the FUSE BOX. For the HORN, the fuse is the 20amp STOP light fuse. Go here and page down: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=181219
08-08-04, 10:15 AM
#7
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The first thread on this site has something to do with Frequently Asked Questions. Go to it. Click it. DO NOT READ ANY OF IT. Just keep paging down on that thread until you see a jpg showing the FUSE BOX. For the HORN, the fuse is the 20amp STOP light fuse. Go here and page down: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=181219 I'm working on the other problems. Back soon. I NEED to know if this is a series four or series five car. I don't have the series five diagrams with me. I need to know if I'm wasting your and my time.
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08-08-04, 10:24 AM
#8
HAILERS
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The dash lights....if you mean the lights for the Combination Meter (speedo, tach, fuel.oil gauges etc) ...the source is from the light switch itself and it's rehostat (sp). The fuse for that is the ILLUMINATION fuse. If the Illumination fuse is good....suspect a bad rheostat in the light switch or the short harness that goes from the light switch to its other end. The FAQ talks about that problem in depth.
08-08-04, 10:39 AM
#10
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Headlights.....check the headlight fuse in the engine bay. Do the headlights go up and down but just not light up??? Which? Both?
Coolant low buzzer. Here's the deal. Although the water is topped off in the filler neck.....there can/will be a AIR POCKET in the top of the radiator where there is a single wire sensor installed. If the sensor sees this airpocket it will cause the buzzer to go off.
Normal radiators have a bleeder screw on the right side of the radiator. You screw it out....fill the filler neck til the water pours out the bleed screw hole and keep filling a the filler neck while reinstalling the bleed screw. Then top off the fiiller neck and put the cap back on. The buzzer should stop buzzing.
IF the buzzer keeps buzzing .....disconnect the single wire at the top of the sensor on the radiator. Touch it to ground. The buzzing should stop in a few seconds. If it does not.....then that wire has an open in it. Follow it back from the sensor til you find the wire broken or disconnected from its next joint/connector.'
Take note here. If the radiator cap is bad/old, OR the rubber hose from the filler neck to the overflow bottle has a slight air leak, that could be problematic. What happens is when the car has been run and shut off, the normal turn of events is for the cap to let some water go from the radiator to the overflow. Then as the car cools down, that same water will be sucked back into the radiator. IF the hose has a leak in it, the water cannot be sucked back into the radiator. A bad radiator cap will give the same problem. The water will stay in the overflow.... and after several driving events, the overflow will fill to the top and dump on the ground. So the small hose to the overflow must be sealed and the radiator cap must be in good condition.
Coolant low buzzer. Here's the deal. Although the water is topped off in the filler neck.....there can/will be a AIR POCKET in the top of the radiator where there is a single wire sensor installed. If the sensor sees this airpocket it will cause the buzzer to go off.
Normal radiators have a bleeder screw on the right side of the radiator. You screw it out....fill the filler neck til the water pours out the bleed screw hole and keep filling a the filler neck while reinstalling the bleed screw. Then top off the fiiller neck and put the cap back on. The buzzer should stop buzzing.
IF the buzzer keeps buzzing .....disconnect the single wire at the top of the sensor on the radiator. Touch it to ground. The buzzing should stop in a few seconds. If it does not.....then that wire has an open in it. Follow it back from the sensor til you find the wire broken or disconnected from its next joint/connector.'
Take note here. If the radiator cap is bad/old, OR the rubber hose from the filler neck to the overflow bottle has a slight air leak, that could be problematic. What happens is when the car has been run and shut off, the normal turn of events is for the cap to let some water go from the radiator to the overflow. Then as the car cools down, that same water will be sucked back into the radiator. IF the hose has a leak in it, the water cannot be sucked back into the radiator. A bad radiator cap will give the same problem. The water will stay in the overflow.... and after several driving events, the overflow will fill to the top and dump on the ground. So the small hose to the overflow must be sealed and the radiator cap must be in good condition.
08-08-04, 10:50 AM
#12
Mechanical Engineering
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by HAILERS
Also about the headlights...... if they do come up but not on......try the high and the low beam both and see if just the high or low beams come on.
niether of them com on so i suspected that it was the relay, am i correct or is it something else?
and i cant find where that thread is in the FAQ about the dash lights
08-08-04, 11:19 AM
#13
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Could be the relay....headlight relay. Pull it out and see if there's 12v on the white wire with a blue stripe WHEN the light switch is switched for the headlights to come on. If it does have 12 v ....then see if there's 12v on each of the relays Red wires (2 red wires at he relay).
Headlght relay is in front of the radiator to the left. Four wires...two red, one white/blue one red/green.
Look in FAQ and the question that says MY DASH LIGHTS DON'T WORK. That is not as I remember it. Go to the search engine and put in dash lights and or icemark. He's written several things on dash lights. You almost have to have a meter to check some of these things. Even a simple digital twenty buck meter from RadioShack will do. Don't use bug lights etc. Gone for the day now.
Headlght relay is in front of the radiator to the left. Four wires...two red, one white/blue one red/green.
Look in FAQ and the question that says MY DASH LIGHTS DON'T WORK. That is not as I remember it. Go to the search engine and put in dash lights and or icemark. He's written several things on dash lights. You almost have to have a meter to check some of these things. Even a simple digital twenty buck meter from RadioShack will do. Don't use bug lights etc. Gone for the day now.
Last edited by HAILERS; 08-08-04 at 11:23 AM.
08-08-04, 10:47 PM
#14
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Originally Posted by Icemark
#1 fix your signature... it is way way too big (191952 kb) max allowed is 20K
#2 warnings, brake lights, horn
#2 warnings, brake lights, horn
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