Cold Air intake for les than check point's....
06-29-03, 08:29 PM
#27
Ok guys I am going to satisfy your thirst for numbers when I am done making the first intake. I am also buying an Air intake temperature guage. 
It will cost me another 80 or 100 dollars but oh well all in the name of my clients. I will post intake temps with a cone intake like I have now and the CAI that I am making. There is no dynoe to be heard of so I am not making a trip to another city just to dyno it. if the intake temps are lower than with a cone that should be engouh to satisfy you all.
Santiago
It will cost me another 80 or 100 dollars but oh well all in the name of my clients. I will post intake temps with a cone intake like I have now and the CAI that I am making. There is no dynoe to be heard of so I am not making a trip to another city just to dyno it. if the intake temps are lower than with a cone that should be engouh to satisfy you all.Santiago
06-30-03, 10:39 AM
#32
The pipes are in route. I will have to go get a disposable and a pic CD so I don't have to scan all that **** in. But within one or two weeks I should have a finished product. I will have Three price levels too to make it more appealing to the variety of the people on the forum. I am still trying to hammer down a price where I make enough money to eventually regain my initial cost and you all don't get fugged for the price. But I can tell you all 100% for SURE it is less than CP 
Santiago
I will have Three price levels too to make it more appealing to the variety of the people on the forum. I am still trying to hammer down a price where I make enough money to eventually regain my initial cost and you all don't get fugged for the price. But I can tell you all 100% for SURE it is less than CP Santiago
06-30-03, 11:10 AM
#33
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I am interested, as long as price is reasonable...
intake temps with thermometer behind the filter would be sufficient I would think, but then again, I'm not a professional.
Let us know!
intake temps with thermometer behind the filter would be sufficient I would think, but then again, I'm not a professional.
Let us know!
06-30-03, 11:15 AM
#34
I am buying an air temp meter thingie and installing it behind the AFM I am going to measure three times for three conditions:
3 readings at 60MPH with the stock Air box
3 with my current cone filter/air box
3 With my CAI
All at 60MPH on the same day I will also record the Ambient temperature VIA the weather channel
The price is reasonable. Like I said I will have Three price levels for the intake once it is done. But I can tell you now it will not be anywere above 200 dollars.
3 readings at 60MPH with the stock Air box
3 with my current cone filter/air box
3 With my CAI
All at 60MPH on the same day I will also record the Ambient temperature VIA the weather channel
The price is reasonable. Like I said I will have Three price levels for the intake once it is done. But I can tell you now it will not be anywere above 200 dollars.
06-30-03, 12:50 PM
#35
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Also be sure to test in COLD temps as well. Below zero (cel) at least. Things such as plastic mounts, clamps, etc. are a lot more likely to crack in the cold, especially when they might be subjected to sudden heating or vibration.
06-30-03, 02:44 PM
#37
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Originally posted by Piranha
Are you guys stupid? Despite having a pipe in the engine bay, you'll still be sucking in COLDER air from outside, as opposed to inside. It WILL benefit. Sheesh.
Are you guys stupid? Despite having a pipe in the engine bay, you'll still be sucking in COLDER air from outside, as opposed to inside. It WILL benefit. Sheesh.
That is not true. Where did you find this information.
06-30-03, 02:50 PM
#38
Uh, logic. If you start out with cooler air, you're going to end up with cooler air. Ever drive your car on a cooler day? Go drive your car in a Michigan winter.
Do you realize how fast air moves through the intake? Way faster than a couple feet of pipe will heat it up. If a few feet of pipe was an issue, then an intercooler would do absolutely nothing compared to the rest of the ducting after the IC, which is the hottest part.
Do you realize how fast air moves through the intake? Way faster than a couple feet of pipe will heat it up. If a few feet of pipe was an issue, then an intercooler would do absolutely nothing compared to the rest of the ducting after the IC, which is the hottest part.
06-30-03, 03:04 PM
#39
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Originally posted by Piranha
Uh, logic. If you start out with cooler air, you're going to end up with cooler air. Ever drive your car on a cooler day? Go drive your car in a Michigan winter.
Do you realize how fast air moves through the intake? Way faster than a couple feet of pipe will heat it up. If a few feet of pipe was an issue, then an intercooler would do absolutely nothing compared to the rest of the ducting after the IC, which is the hottest part.
Uh, logic. If you start out with cooler air, you're going to end up with cooler air. Ever drive your car on a cooler day? Go drive your car in a Michigan winter.
Do you realize how fast air moves through the intake? Way faster than a couple feet of pipe will heat it up. If a few feet of pipe was an issue, then an intercooler would do absolutely nothing compared to the rest of the ducting after the IC, which is the hottest part.
you should take some of that logic and do some research. You should see how the bay of your RX is design. You can not just simply drop a tube and expect cold air to be sucked in. There is a reason why every automotive company uses plastic for air intakes. They suck at taking in heat. Also, remember If you do take in so much air, you may Lean out the rotary engine and your not helping the ECU's predesign settings. Like AAron said. TII injectors are recommended. For air to properly reach the CAI you have to do some cutting to the frame by the retracting light on the right hand side of the frame.
Until we get some dyno numbers do not except some awesome HP increase, but another pretty part added to your bay. No on ever looks at the CONs and as far as i see every project has at least one.
Good luck on the CAI
06-30-03, 03:06 PM
#40
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Originally posted by Piranha
Do you realize how fast air moves through the intake? Way faster than a couple feet of pipe will heat it up.
Do you realize how fast air moves through the intake? Way faster than a couple feet of pipe will heat it up.
06-30-03, 03:12 PM
#41
I don't have an NA, nor the stock ECU. I was just stating on the theory side.
You honestly think that if you added a pipe to suck in cooler air from outside it would make the air so dense you would need bigger injectors??????
These cars were designed with parameters to run all year in the US (and wherever else). If you have 70 degree weather outside, and you suck in 70 degree air, you aren't going to have too cold of air. Like I said, Michigan winters, we have much colder air, the stock ECU can handle it fine.
Ok, so if plastic is so wonderful, why is it that people don't use something besides metal for intercooler piping? With your reasoning Erau, the air should just heat right back up, defeating the purpose!
Cooler air=denser air= more power.
I think the con of these cooler intakes are the price, that's why it's cool people are making them.
Also, the "bay" of the RX-7... remember the scoop that sucks in cooler air and sends it into the airbox? Wow, mazda designed a cold air intake from the get-go! But many have found out that adding a cone filter, although increasing air temps, increased air volume considerably and helped the engine breath.
Also, take a look at new vehicles, most that I've seen have ducting going into a fender well for cooler air.
One more thing... if you have a hot pipe attached to the engine (which would use an insulating, silicone coupling I'd hope), the air running through it would cool it down immensely, negating the heatsoak from the engine.
I have watched my intake temps on my datalogs, and after idling, yes, my IC is heatsoaked, but after I start moving, temp goes down, and then as I go into boost, it goes up. Make sense?
You honestly think that if you added a pipe to suck in cooler air from outside it would make the air so dense you would need bigger injectors??????
These cars were designed with parameters to run all year in the US (and wherever else). If you have 70 degree weather outside, and you suck in 70 degree air, you aren't going to have too cold of air. Like I said, Michigan winters, we have much colder air, the stock ECU can handle it fine.
Ok, so if plastic is so wonderful, why is it that people don't use something besides metal for intercooler piping? With your reasoning Erau, the air should just heat right back up, defeating the purpose!
Cooler air=denser air= more power.
I think the con of these cooler intakes are the price, that's why it's cool people are making them.
Also, the "bay" of the RX-7... remember the scoop that sucks in cooler air and sends it into the airbox? Wow, mazda designed a cold air intake from the get-go! But many have found out that adding a cone filter, although increasing air temps, increased air volume considerably and helped the engine breath.
Also, take a look at new vehicles, most that I've seen have ducting going into a fender well for cooler air.
One more thing... if you have a hot pipe attached to the engine (which would use an insulating, silicone coupling I'd hope), the air running through it would cool it down immensely, negating the heatsoak from the engine.
I have watched my intake temps on my datalogs, and after idling, yes, my IC is heatsoaked, but after I start moving, temp goes down, and then as I go into boost, it goes up. Make sense?
06-30-03, 03:29 PM
#42
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go back and read my post on intercooling......If heat is not such an issue. Why do you see guys pack so much ice on there intake at race events and spraying N 0 on their intercooler.
If you say air is so fast when going through the piping than your saying that intercooling does nothing.
Cooler air does not equal more power.
COOLER AIR AND PROPERLY TUNING YOUR CAR EQUALS MORE POWER.
If you say air is so fast when going through the piping than your saying that intercooling does nothing.
Cooler air does not equal more power.
COOLER AIR AND PROPERLY TUNING YOUR CAR EQUALS MORE POWER.
06-30-03, 03:36 PM
#44
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Originally posted by ERAUMAZDA
If you say air is so fast when going through the piping than your saying that intercooling does nothing.
If you say air is so fast when going through the piping than your saying that intercooling does nothing.
It's fairly simple to find the intake air velocity. It's just a matter of knowing displacement, RPMs, and intake tube area. I'll put something together. Just gimme some time to dig through my notes.
06-30-03, 03:45 PM
#45
Erau, air through a PIPE is a lot different than air through an INTERCOOLER. C'mon man, no one here is calling the other stupid.
Well, I guess we will have to disagree. You don't have to tune your car to run in 20 degrees farenheit and have more power. It just happens
Even in car mags, they will mention having hot air or high altitude a problem for making less power...
Well, I guess we will have to disagree. You don't have to tune your car to run in 20 degrees farenheit and have more power. It just happens
Even in car mags, they will mention having hot air or high altitude a problem for making less power...
06-30-03, 04:50 PM
#47
ENOUGH of this MADNESS!!
I did this setup about 5 years ago!!!
First:
There is no point in using a 3 inch tube if the AFM inlet is 2.5!
Second:
I use different radiator\coolant elbows with exhaust tubes, the final cost was under $50 (way under)
Third:
There is no need to cut anything if you use the 2.5 inch tube\hose.
Fourth:
No problem what so ever, with rain, snow, or heat (unless you plan on driving into a 2 inch pod).
I have pictures at home, but I don't have the scanner. I did posted the pics a couple of years ago, but I didn't get any responses or questions!
I did this setup about 5 years ago!!!
First:
There is no point in using a 3 inch tube if the AFM inlet is 2.5!
Second:
I use different radiator\coolant elbows with exhaust tubes, the final cost was under $50 (way under)
Third:
There is no need to cut anything if you use the 2.5 inch tube\hose.
Fourth:
No problem what so ever, with rain, snow, or heat (unless you plan on driving into a 2 inch pod).
I have pictures at home, but I don't have the scanner. I did posted the pics a couple of years ago, but I didn't get any responses or questions!
06-30-03, 09:25 PM
#49
Ok how the **** does this thread wher I am trying to help you all out turn into a debate about intake temps. This is for interest in the intake. I will post redults of my setup when I am done and have a finished product. All of you that are arguing about my product STFU you have no and I mean NO ******* clue as to what I am making at all. I may change the design or use a different material or whatever. But I want to make this **** affordable and worth while to me and you. Stop bullshitting about intake temps and theory. ONLY an air intake temp GUAGE will give PROOF of any ******* thing good or bad about my intake. Enough! You all are idiots talking about a product that is still in its early stages of development and you have only the basics specs on. Get the hell out of my thread and make another one to debate this for the next two weeks. Leave this thread alone and clear or **** for the people that actually want something to come about. Oh and I am not repeat NOT going to a dyno. I will not ******* drive 3 hours to another CITY only to spend another 100 or so dollars on repeated runs with different setups. Like I said before I will test it on the road and provide all the facts you want then but I am not spending ******* 300 dollars to get numbers. Now I begin to understand why all the guys on here don't make products you(the arguers of this thread that hijacked it) are ******* whinning bitches. I will do my best but going to such lengths as to drove to a different city and taking off time from school and work is idiotic. You want the numbers pay more!
