rx7 SE

iTrader: (5)

I was driving my 87 TII gettin on the highway when randomly it started stuttering severly and lost any type of power I was making. It forced me to slow down and while doing so the engine went silent a few times (wasn't off) and then would backfire back to life (still must be getting fuel then). I had to pull over cuz it didn't have enough power to break 10 mph. I was thinking it was a seal but it idled just fine and after limping it along the highway at roughly 40 mph the problem pretty much went away and I made it home. Started it up the next day and everything seemed normal but I didn't dare try to drive it just yet...

My only guesses is my leading coil cuz I've replaced the trailing. Maybe a bad CAS or wiring to/from it. Got my ECU from rtek so maybe a solder gave out somewhere, but highly unlikely. Since it backfired I know it was getting fuel so it must be a spark issue.. and guys I already did the 'ghetto' compression test so we can skip that one, sounded normal...

any other ideas or similar problems?


Thanks fellas,

~Ant

HAILERS2

A TPS that sticks to the 100% positon will give you symptoms like that. On a series four I'd recommend removing the TPS plug and go for a drive and see if the problem went away or not.

Whoa. You have a RTEK2.0??????? Then watch the TPS percent on your Palm and see if it's stuck at a certain percent. Like 100% or something less like maybe 85%. And stays there at that percentage level even though your moving the pedal.

Then again, you might have meant a RTEK 1.8 or whatever.

I had a similar problem last month. I removed the throttle body/upper intake manifold to replace the water hose b/t the rear rotor side housing and the bottom of the throttle body. Replaced same and put the thing back together.

Started up and idled fine. Refilled with water etc. Backed out of the driveway then put it in first gear and drove off. Went about twenty feet and it jerked, lost rpm etc, but when I let off the pedal it idled like a top.

BAck to the driveway. Got the Palm out to look for problems. TPS stuck at 100% at idle and foot off the pedal. Removed the intercooler, saw nothing wrong. Played with the TPS a bit. Wiggled its wires. Tapped it. Eventually the TPS reading went to the normal 20%, and since I did more than one thing, I've no idea why it was back to normal. It's been driving right as rain since. No other problems. I'm clueless why it got locked at 100%.

The car not going anywhere was a result of fuel cut of the injectors by the ECU. A little vague as to why in my mind. I'm fairly sure that was it.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

^ Sig. says Rtek 1.7, so he'll have to check it manually. Pulling engine codes may help speed up the troubleshooting process too. http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html

rx7 SE

iTrader: (5)

did a little playing around with my leading and trailing coils and when the car ran on just my trailing coils it felt the same as when she broke down on me....gonna replace them this weekend and see from there

tps looked good, nothing loose or disconnected that i could see

rx7 SE

iTrader: (5)

anybody ever have any luck when checking codes?

ProChemBroTCM

I was having a very similar problem: I pulled the ECU out of the passenger footwell, and there was a single burned-out resistor on the board closest to the plug. I'm waiting to find a replacement ecu now.

rx7 SE

iTrader: (5)

I hope its not that but I did go ahead and replace my leading coil and it ran and idled noticeably smoother, i think the ignitor was not giving a strong enough spark,or no spark at all for the matter.

new2mazda

iTrader: (1)

same crap happened to me a month ago bad leading, and of course it ran smoother after replace but it fouled my plugs from runnin rich as crap... so try new plugs or pull urs and see if they r good

rx7 SE

iTrader: (5)

I had replaced my plugs about a month or so ago but they did look a little foul already when I did my compression check... I'll be replacing them soon

87-Rexxer-GXL

iTrader: (4)

Standalone = problems solved. Ever sice I installed my haltech and got it street tuned. I havent run into any prolbems the stock/modifed ecu can make. You have more resources there to have it tuned and a more readily availble dyno to use. Unlike here where we would have to drive around 2-3 hours to even find one. And with the setup I am currently running other owners here and I are estimating around 300-350hp. But other than that I've had those problems before too. Make sure there arent any vac leaks, check your plugs, make sure all your connections are secure in place on all connectors injectors:afm:ect and maybe reset your ecu let it idle.

anthonywe

I also have a problem that when the car gets at around 4 rpm the car does not want to accelerate anymore it acts really weird like it loses power I then have to change for example from second speed to 3th since to stop it and get more speed. anytime it comes in the 4 rpm it does the same thing in all gears.. planning of letting some one check it in a couple of hours and some one advised me to clean my fuel injector or something like that so maybe doing that.
any advice would be more then welcome.

thank you.

new2mazda

iTrader: (1)

if ur running a turbo 2 4k hesitation is a well documented problem. anything from some of ur grounds being bad namely the one under your intake on the block itself. could also be hitting fuel cut if you have boost creep but that would have been around for a while...

ya i was pissed when my coil went out it was a month or 2 after i replaced plugs and everything... wasted money. but check em first or if you have some good plugs just try them and see if it changes before you buy new

Unsupa

iTrader: (2)

I was having a similar issue last week. My problem was that the main relay was crapping out on me. I was driving down the highway and car would just die, then start right back up. Well if finally quit starting all together. I too checked the coils, ecu, CAS... I ruled out the main relay early because I could hear it clicking as I turned the key. Well I wish I hadn't. Turns out that there's 2 switches activated in the main relay and one of them had corroded up and quit making a connection.

Just to rule it out, you can unplug the 4 wire plug from the relay but the leave the 2 wire plugged in. take a test light/DMM and cut the key on. Then test the relay for voltage. I was getting 12 on one side of it, but only 2.5 on the other side. I jumped the connector with a paper clip and it fired right up. Hope this helps.

rx7 SE

iTrader: (5)

Good to hear from you Matt! I might be coming back there for Christmas...minus my rx7 of course, lol. I don't have myspace anymore but I'd like to see ur setup now, plus mine has change dramatically as well... hit me up!


Sounds like me and u are having the same problem... I'm gonna start cheap and replace my plugs again. u might wanna do the same. If that doesn't do it I'll try putting some more grounds on the car or clean them up.

~Ant

anthonywe

ok cool let me kno about it. I have to wait 2 weeks to let some one have a look at it. But i have been told that it needs a rebuild oh wel let me know how yours turns out

calpatriot

Check for code 5, O2 sensor.

rx7 SE

iTrader: (5)

how does urs idle? and if you have a boost gauge where does ur vacuum sit at? You can tell pretty quick on ur own if the engine needs a rebuild...

anthonywe

well it does not idle steady and perfect.. Which is why someone made it idle higher so that it could be more steady.. When it used to idle normaly it used to kinda lose power ad idle lower and then back to normal....?

rx7 SE

iTrader: (5)

well hardly any fc idles 'perfect' i'm more concerned if urs is lopy, and really rough? Like it's struggling to stay runnin kinda idle. And you can do the ghetto compression test... do u know how to do that?

anthonywe

wel it idles bad not even close to steady.. It sometimes even idles that you look at the car like wff is going on:s... Lol.. No i ha e no idea how to do that would love to know?
Thank you

rx7 SE

iTrader: (5)

Alright, disconnect your Crank Angle Sensor (let me know if u don't know where that's at). What that does is it won't allow ur car to start while doin the test. Anyway pull one spark plug at a time and turn the car over. When u do u should hear 3 strong wooshes and if not a seal has gone out. Do this with all 4 spark plugs.

let me know how it goes

~Ant

rx7 SE

iTrader: (5)

If anybody still was curious to what my problem really was...it was my leading coil/igniter and when I went to replace my AFM I found out that I had an s5 turbo AFM and mine's an s4, once I replaced those two she idled perfect, stopped backfiring, etc...pleasure to drive now.

Chriz88DX

iTrader: (1)

i have the same problem now on my s4 na but i thinkit is the tailing for these two reasons on my tach is way off (going by my safc) some times my tach does not even work (trsiling coil) i have now power at low rpm's it skips really bad between 2k and 3k and will some timse skip a 7k but only after a long drive.


i hope this helps some one if they have the same probllem

dkwasherexd

iTrader: (8)

i have this problem. My engine would shut off middrift. The tachometer would not work at all. Then afew minute slater I try starting and if my tachometer works my engine will start. If my tach is dead while cranking it wont start.

I tried replacing my leading coild, tps, afm still no luck. s4 t2..

I rear above someone saying its the main relayy>>?