Code checking my S4 TII Swap Both lights stay on?
07-30-06, 07:03 PM
#1
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Code checking my S4 TII Swap Both lights stay on?
Hey, just completing my TII swap, I 'm getting no spark, and both of the red LED's stay lit permanently when the key is on. Where to start?
08-06-06, 02:57 PM
#6
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No fuel/ no spark equals the ENGINE fuse in the interior being KAPUT.
You turn the key to ON. You put batt voltage to that fuse which in turn supplys pwr to the CIRCUIT OPENING RELAY and the MAIN RELAY. See the free/online/FSM for your car.
You turn the key to ON. You put batt voltage to that fuse which in turn supplys pwr to the CIRCUIT OPENING RELAY and the MAIN RELAY. See the free/online/FSM for your car.
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08-06-06, 03:45 PM
#8
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Go to the LEAD coil assy. PUll the small, white, two socket plug apart. With the key to ON, see if there's batt voltage at the BLACK/YELLOW wire. DO NOT fiddle with the other wire in that connector.
08-06-06, 04:08 PM
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Then as I said in the OTHER post, pull the main relay plug apart that has two wires. The black/white one should have batt voltage when the key is to ON. THAT 12v pulls the main relay in. That batt voltage comes from the ENGINE fuse. IF the 12v is there on the black/white with the key to ON, then make sure the gnd for the Main Relay is good. It should read less than one ohm.
If the voltage is there on the black/white two socket connector of the main relay and the gnd is good, then the MAIN RELAY is probably bad.
If you want to bypass the main relay and start the engine, then you just get two pieces of wire and jumper the four socket connector on the main relay. You'd jumper the black/green to the black/yellow and also jumper the white/blue to the black/white wire.
The engine should start IF everything else is in working order.
If the voltage is there on the black/white two socket connector of the main relay and the gnd is good, then the MAIN RELAY is probably bad.
If you want to bypass the main relay and start the engine, then you just get two pieces of wire and jumper the four socket connector on the main relay. You'd jumper the black/green to the black/yellow and also jumper the white/blue to the black/white wire.
The engine should start IF everything else is in working order.
08-06-06, 04:10 PM
#13
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Interesting, ok I'm going to give that a shot. What's odd, is that I had a main relay from another car that I'm trying as well. I just found it unlikely that I had 2 bad relays.
08-06-06, 04:20 PM
#14
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Originally Posted by Therx7ist
Interesting, ok I'm going to give that a shot. What's odd, is that I had a main relay from another car that I'm trying as well. I just found it unlikely that I had 2 bad relays.
08-06-06, 04:26 PM
#15
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Originally Posted by Therx7ist
I've read your other posts. I get nothing there unless I disconnect the main relay and jump the two wires. Black/green and Black/yellow
The only thing I can figure is the MAIN Relay isn't being pulled in because of a lack of 12v from the ENGINE FUSE/KEY OR the ground wire for the main relay is not there. It should be the pure black wire in the main relays two socket connector. The problem has to be either the lack of 12v on the black/white or no gnd on the pure black wire in the two socket connector.
I'd be frustrated enough by now to jumper those two sets of wires in the MAIN relay four socket plug just to hear the engine cough. A morale booster if nothing else. Of course sometime your going to have to make the main relay work.
08-06-06, 04:38 PM
#16
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Yup, that's what I did. I just jumpered it, and the bitch started!! Yahoo! A years of work and finally I get to hear it run for 45 seconds. Thank you HAILERS!!
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