thenewguy16

ok guys i have an 86 base model 7, almost 120,000 miles on the stock clutch and its getting pretty bad. It's grinding gears at a stand still and the throwout bearing is making serious noises when the clutch pedal is down. My question is what brand clutch kit should i get and from where?? I found a few such as http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33564 and http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33564 . Does anybody have experience with either of these? and is there any special tools i should get ahead of time to do the job or any tips?

thanks

88t2romad

i dont have any exp with those certain clutches, but they will be the same as the one i installed. A lil tip, make sure you replace the pilot bearing, and make sure you know how to put the tranny crossmember in correctly......

Project84

The type of clutch and pressure plate you get should be based on the performance level of your car. Race clutches, like that 6 puck clutch disc can seriously affect the cars driving characteristics in "stop and go" traffic conditions. There are also clutches with and without springs, different numbers of pucks (the contact surface of the disc) and made of different materials (like metallic clutches, carbon fiber, and organic). They are designed for different performances such as some racing on a lightly modified engine, hard launches as when drag racing with a high output engine, road racing, autocross, or street/stip use. If you have a car that is intended for the track, then get a clutch for the same purpose. Since you are asking about what clutch to get, and you are posting two different types of clutches, Im assuming you don't know the difference, therefore your car must be pretty close to stock. I'm not downing you for not knowing, I didn't know at one point in time either.

I'd read up on the different types of clutches and there purpose/characteristics, and decide from there. For a stock car, you probably don't want anything more than a Street/strip clutch and pressure plate unless you intend to do some modifications in the near future that will allow you to produce a lot more power. The links below should take you to a page that will give you a good narrative on a variety of clutches for the RX-7. Note that a lot of forum member have claimed to have had problems with the centerforce brand of clutch/pressure plate. There is a thread on here somewhere describing how the weights get stuck in the wrong positon when the clutch is installed and the assembly becomes unbalanced. There is an explaination on how a centerforce clutch works. The weights I'm talking about are unique to their brand of clutch. If I find the link to the narrative, I'll post it here. Mostly all other clutch assemblies, regardless of brand, work like a normal clutch: pedal pressure is dictated by the pressure plate. Clamping pressure is dictated by the pressure plate, and clutch to flywheel grip is dictated by the characteristics of the puck material and the presence of springs on the clutch hub.

And as mentioned above, change the pilot bearing, pilot bearing seal, and throwout bearing when ever you change a clutch. Those parts only cost a few extra bucks, but are vital to proper, long lasting, troublefree clutch operation.


http://www.mazdatrix.com/f-writng.htm
http://www.mazdatrix.com/f86-92nt.htm

powrdby13B

Note about taking the clutch off... there is a bolt that is like 2.125 or 2.25 which is ~55mm that you need something to get off... mazda recommends some sort of puller... but I figured that since the bolt was on with ~350-400 ft-lbs it would be more fun to mill a socket and use a pipe wrench.
Other than that, just break it in good and you should be fine...

therotaryrocket

if your throw-out; clutch release; bearing is what is causing the slipping then your clutch and flywheel itself may still be fine (worn but still okay) so if you would want to replace it anyways you may not want to resurface the flywheel. but if you want to do it "right" than replace all that stuff.

Project84

That nut is holding the flywheel to the crankshaft. It doesn't need to be removed to replace the clutch.

thenewguy16

project84 your right, its completely stock and i really dont plan on modifying it much, at least not any time soon. i know that they are very different types of clutches, i was more refurring to if the brands i had put links of off of ebay would be reliable or junk. You brought up a good point about the 6 puck being bad in "stop and go" traffic and thats not really what im looking for. I'm guessing a oem clutch would suit me pretty well and im looking for a full kit so i dont have to order everything separate.

Project84

I got a "Exedy" kit off ebay that came with just about everything. Clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing and clutch alignment tool. You'll have to buy the pilot bearing seal from Mazda because I don't know of anyone else who carries it. It shouldn't be more than $5. Also had to buy the right kind of grease for the clutch pilot and throwout bearings. Any local auto parts store should carry what the Factory Service Manual (FSM) and Haynes manual calls for. To remove the old pilot bearing, you'll need a tool specifically designed for that. Even with the tool, some people have problems and resort to alternate methods of removing it. There is a search button on the top right of the main 2nd gen page. Search for Pilot Bearing and you will find plenty of discussions about it. The tool can be expensive to purchase. If you don't want to buy one, you can rent one from just about any place that has a tool rental program. Take the new bearing with you when you are looking for bearing remover so you will be sure you get one small enough to fit inside of it. It will have jaws that expand behind the bearing to pull it out. If the jaws are too big it won't fit through the bearing to get behind it.

Good luck with changing the clutch