Clutch question, disc backwards? 90 vert n/a, how long?
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Clutch question, disc backwards? 90 vert n/a, how long?
Last question before re-checking new install. If I by chance put the clutch disc in backwards, would that be causing my vibration, and how much damage am I causing? Can't get to drop tranny until this weekend. Vibration is occuring at higher speeds in 2nd and 3rd gears, but totally disappearing upon deceleration .
Thanks again in advance!
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Thanks again in advance!
PEACE THE MUTT
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Thanks White, wasn't sure, just checking out all possible variables. Car drives great, except the vibration. Time will tell, I guess.
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#5
Originally Posted by White87FC
If the clutch disc was in backwards, the car would be very hard to get into gear. Basically un-driveable. I've seen it done.
the RX-7's clutch can't be put in backwards and still install the PP properly, look at the disk, one side of the splined center sticks out, one side doesn't - if its backwards it would hold out the PP........
edit:
Did you mark the orientation of the driveshaft to the flange on the diff. before you removed it? as mentioned above (although the d/shaft might not be out of balance) it may have had wieghts installed and been put back together in the wrong orientaition......
Last edited by classicauto; 04-04-06 at 12:21 PM.
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Just a thought, and dumb question, again. Looking from engine to exhaust, would it make a difference if the bolts in the driveshaft were in front to rear, as apposed to the opposite? I'm sure that I put them back in the way they were, but at this point, I'm looking at all possibilities. And there were no weights, just bolts, washers, and nuts.
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#7
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I don't think it would make a difference, but the bolts should point TOWARDS the transmission, with the nights tightening TOWARDS the differential.
If that's confusing, the head of the bolts should be on the differential side, with the nuts on the transmission side.
If that's confusing, the head of the bolts should be on the differential side, with the nuts on the transmission side.
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Thanks for the info spot. They are placed that way. Hoping to solve without doing again, but I see no choice. Oh well, hopefully something simple. Thanks again all. Any more ideas would always be welcome.
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#9
I would be questioning the driveshaft orientaition even if no weights are present on the shaft
(although on second thought it would seem like the vib. should be present at all times if it was orientaition)
anyways, check out the diff lange carefully and see if you can notice any marks from where the shaft was previously mounted...it might even be on completely 180...
Id check it out at least, but as I said - I think the shake would be present all the time if it was orientation, but then again I have had it SEEM like it was only there at low speeds, but it only seemingly smoothed out at higher gears, once the problem was fixed you could tell it was present the whole time
(although on second thought it would seem like the vib. should be present at all times if it was orientaition)
anyways, check out the diff lange carefully and see if you can notice any marks from where the shaft was previously mounted...it might even be on completely 180...
Id check it out at least, but as I said - I think the shake would be present all the time if it was orientation, but then again I have had it SEEM like it was only there at low speeds, but it only seemingly smoothed out at higher gears, once the problem was fixed you could tell it was present the whole time
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The marks on the driveshaft are pretty obvious, and that is what is so bothersome about all of this. Noticeable in EVERY gear, at any rpm accelerating, but nothing on deceleration. Also, it seems like it is not so apparent when the car is at normal operating temp. And now it's like if I shift, and don't get right back into it, almost like a thump in the transition. I'm thinking tranny a bit, but only started with new clutch. THIS F C iing car, is why it is an FC.
HEHEHEHE,. I'll keep going. Thanks all.
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HEHEHEHE,. I'll keep going. Thanks all.
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Thanks for the input slpin. Just out of curiosity, how my changing the clutch affect the condition of the u-joints? And I'm very serious about that question!
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If the vibration continues if you push the clutch in it's something on the transmission side of things (like the throw-out bearing, input shaft, driveshaft) but if it goes away it's something with the clutch, flywheel or pressure plate.
Did you properly torque the pressure plate bolts evenly?
Did you properly torque the pressure plate bolts evenly?
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OK, now I'm second guessing my work. Depending on the speed I am traveling, ie:65 in 3rd, vibration is noticable, if I decelerate, vibration gone. If I push in the clutch, sometimes it decreases, sometimes it doesn't. The higher the speed, the more noticeable. Same 65 mph, in 5th gear, no change in vibration. I'm sure that I torqued all the bolts evenly in a star pattern. If somehow I didn't get the flywheel torqued all the way, could that cause the problem, or overtorqued? Sorry guys, just really frustrated right now. I appreciate the help, really.
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You removed the flywheel? I thought you just changed clutches. All you should have done with the flywheel was clean it up with a deburring tool or something like that, one of those spinning cookie deally's.
If it was a fucked up flywheel you'd get chatter when the clutch was engaged (out) while driving. You say you get it all the time, even with clutch in. Check your driveshaft and all joints.
If you do drop your trans again, don't forget to grease the input shaft on the tranny if you didn't do it before.
If it was a fucked up flywheel you'd get chatter when the clutch was engaged (out) while driving. You say you get it all the time, even with clutch in. Check your driveshaft and all joints.
If you do drop your trans again, don't forget to grease the input shaft on the tranny if you didn't do it before.
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Thanks for the help spot, I'm just at my limit now. I bitch, complain, and then get pissy when things don't work out. Sorry all. Just love the car, and don't want some ***** touching something I have worked on by myself. Just don't like the way she is acting. I'll just pull the tranny, check the clutch again, flywheel, bearings, etc. and let you all know. Sorry folks, you guys really are the best.
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Short of having someone actually analizing the driveshaft and u-joints, visually they are fine, there is no slop or any play at all with them. When I disassemble again, I will certainly have it looked at though if I don't find something in clutch area first. Thanks again.
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