CLUTCH? problem. i need HELP
#26
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i bled the clutch line already. and a mechanic adjusted the pedal for me again because i had it too far away. he made it perfect. i'm ordering a new master cylinder, i already replaced the slave, a hose line, upper and lower bushings for the shifter, gonna check the tranny fluid, the clutch fluid, and replace the pilot bearing is i can and must. As far as why my car is slow, i have no idea. my clutch is fine. when the car accelerates slowly it is normal except that it just accelerates slower when i punch it. it feels like the car has less power. what could that be???? is it the air filter clogged up or something lame like that? so far i'm just working on the shifter but that car is slower than it should be.
#27
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i'm going to order a new clutch because it makes more sense to me now what someone said about why i'm losing power. i'm going to post a new thread and ask what a good street or racing clutch would be and where i can order it and what else i need with it... i am clueless but i want to put in a nice performance racing clutch that is okay as an every-day car.
#28
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vaccum leak????????
ahh... i was browsing another thread and someone was talking about there streetport. mine is streetported too.
That's nowhere near enough vacuum. A stock to street port engine should idle cleanly well under 1000 RPM and pull between 15-18" of vacuum.
Are you SURE you don't have a vacuum leak? How do you know?
Do you get any smoke from the tailpipe?
is that why i am getting slower performance? i have occasional smoke come out the back when i rev it hard and shift gears, etc.. it got way better when i changed the oil from some heavy crap the owner told me to use like 10w-50 to 10w-30. anyway, what do you think?
That's nowhere near enough vacuum. A stock to street port engine should idle cleanly well under 1000 RPM and pull between 15-18" of vacuum.
Are you SURE you don't have a vacuum leak? How do you know?
Do you get any smoke from the tailpipe?
is that why i am getting slower performance? i have occasional smoke come out the back when i rev it hard and shift gears, etc.. it got way better when i changed the oil from some heavy crap the owner told me to use like 10w-50 to 10w-30. anyway, what do you think?
#29
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On the grinding concern, your pilot bearing might have shattered or seazed. This is notorious with these cars. I had this problem a few months back. My tranny would intermittently (spell) grind, sometimes even not engaged. I just bought the OEM replacement (EXEDY) from mazda and it is awesome for daily, cheap as well. The part number for the kit is N308-16-490MV for N/A, N307- for turboII. If you go to your local dealer It will cost you $167, but I work at Classic Mazda here in Orlando and I could get you the kit for around $133 + shipping.
#30
The Silent but Deadly Mod
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I had this problem and I did have to shift without the clutch and slam the shifter into gear. when i replaced the slave everything was fine again. do i need to rebuild my tranny or is my pilot bearing seized? every shop i take it to, will not let me order parts and put them on (so they can make more $$). these three shops located in the same u-shaped parking lot all worked to together to "test" my car and do basically nothing and tell me that "they could never make me happy", etc.. basically they made me BEG them to work on my car and then he told me i need to rebuild my tranny. then the tranny shop there wouldn't even rebuild mine. he tried to send me to this guy to just by a rebuilt one. anyway, they got me good till later that night. i'm first going to do the bushings and other stuff and hope that works.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=pilot+bearing
However, if you replaced your slave and everything worked, it's most likely your slave failed. You probably trashed the synchros if you powershifted every gear, even if you rev-matched properly. I forsee a tranny rebuild in your near future.
#31
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I believe the transmission does not need replacing yet. What is the mileage on the car and are they original. Has the engine rebuilt, has the clutch ever been replaced. I believe yor problem is more of a bad pressure plate that is flexing and slipping. By flexing i mean that when you push the clutch in and the clutch disengages the pressure plate has points that are stuck to the flywheel causing the gear to keep on spinning too fast for the syncronizer. I have the same problem on my 300zx and all it was was a bad clutch so I would try that first because tranny rebuilds are alot of money.
#32
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When I replaced the slave it fixed quite a few problems. I still have enough problems left to warrant replacing other things. I would like to order the pilot bearing, but how would I ensure I get the part? How would you accept payment? Thank you for offering to save me money. What do you think guys, should I try and replace the pilot bearing??
#33
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I believe the transmission does not need replacing yet. What is the mileage on the car and are they original. Has the engine rebuilt, has the clutch ever been replaced. I believe yor problem is more of a bad pressure plate that is flexing and slipping. By flexing i mean that when you push the clutch in and the clutch disengages the pressure plate has points that are stuck to the flywheel causing the gear to keep on spinning too fast for the syncronizer. I have the same problem on my 300zx and all it was was a bad clutch so I would try that first because tranny rebuilds are alot of money.
#34
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Could Not Pm
On the grinding concern, your pilot bearing might have shattered or seazed. This is notorious with these cars. I had this problem a few months back. My tranny would intermittently (spell) grind, sometimes even not engaged. I just bought the OEM replacement (EXEDY) from mazda and it is awesome for daily, cheap as well. The part number for the kit is N308-16-490MV for N/A, N307- for turboII. If you go to your local dealer It will cost you $167, but I work at Classic Mazda here in Orlando and I could get you the kit for around $133 + shipping.
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