Clutch pedal sticking halfway?
#1
Clutch pedal sticking halfway?
My clutch pedal just decided to start sticking. It works as usual, but, when you push it down, it only returns halfway. It seems like the spring assist doesn't have enough oomph to return it all the way.
Is this something in the pedal? On my Conquest, it did this because of the shaft that the pedal rides on wore and made an edge the pedal stuck on. Not sure if these cars are known for that as well or not.
Or is it the hydraulics? As I said, it works fine, disengages and engages as normal, just sticks halfway.
But, it just started doing this literally between gear changes. Ugh.
Thanks in advance.
Is this something in the pedal? On my Conquest, it did this because of the shaft that the pedal rides on wore and made an edge the pedal stuck on. Not sure if these cars are known for that as well or not.
Or is it the hydraulics? As I said, it works fine, disengages and engages as normal, just sticks halfway.
But, it just started doing this literally between gear changes. Ugh.
Thanks in advance.
#4
u may just have to replace the fluid in the clutch cylinder. if ur fluid is black or dark u have clutch dust in it. get a turkey baster or giant syringe and get the fluid out of the cylinder , clean the rest of the gunk out wit a few rags , replace fluid and voila! as good as new
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#8
And, I think it was hanging up the the starter/cruise switch too as the tab was kinda bent and hitting the pedal. Must've hit it with my foot somehow...lol
#11
I am having this same issue (returns only halfway), but it seems to only do it when it gets hot (ambient temp). I have noticed when the ambient temp isn't so hot (at night, maybe mid-70's) it will operate normally, but during the daytime with temps in the mid-upper 80's it will inevitably begin returning halfway - it works normally for 30 minutes or so but eventually sticks halfway on its return.
#12
I had this same issue at one time. It turned out to be bad throw out bearing. I ignored it for about 4-5 months and eventually it got worse and worse until the throw out bearing seized. Listen for a grinding or whining noise when clutch is being let out, although when my issue first popped up I did not hear a noise because my car has open headers. You could feel there was something wrong when letting the clutch out and soon after it seized.
Other things that can cause it to stick is a faulty master cylinder and / or improperly bled line / leak in brake fluid lines.
My suggestion to remedy the issue is to inspect lines, master and slave cylinder. May need to pull master and slave cylinder to inspect for internal leaks by removing rubber cover. They're both around ~$30 at autozone / oreillys / advance auto. Easy jobs to replace and bleed.
For bleeding, pump fluid in from bottom (bleeder valve on slave cylinder) and make sure to remove all current fluid from system using turkey baster of some sort. This ensures no air gets in and system is full.
Other things that can cause it to stick is a faulty master cylinder and / or improperly bled line / leak in brake fluid lines.
My suggestion to remedy the issue is to inspect lines, master and slave cylinder. May need to pull master and slave cylinder to inspect for internal leaks by removing rubber cover. They're both around ~$30 at autozone / oreillys / advance auto. Easy jobs to replace and bleed.
For bleeding, pump fluid in from bottom (bleeder valve on slave cylinder) and make sure to remove all current fluid from system using turkey baster of some sort. This ensures no air gets in and system is full.
#13
I have both the Master as well as Slave cylinders, some high-temp fluid, and a braided hose: I will be replacing all this weekend. I am fairly confident this will resolve the issue. Either way, I will post the results.
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He_162 (07-23-20)
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