user 797w349o

Hey guys, I was wondering, I've talked to my mechanic, rotary specialist, he did the last work on my car, but, upon getting my car back, the clutch would not engage in any gear, he told me that he would fix it for free (so long as I don't need a new clutch) if I bring the car back, another friend of mine told me that it could be fixed by adjusting the clutch pedal, I would like to try the adjustment first, but the mechanic says that would have no effect since it is a hydraulic clutch, I kind of trust both advice equally, but the adjustment seems more plausible, as, when the clutch is engaged in first gear, the car will actually roll, but I can press the clutch in and take away power, obviously, but it seems as if adjusting it the right way, by bringing the pedal back further, will engage the clutch more, I just need to know how I would go about doing this

ColinShark

The clutch pedal and hydraulics just release the clutch, not engage it, so there must be something wrong with the clutch itself. My guess would be that it's slippery from an oil leak, but it could be a couple different things.

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

Split that up so people can logically read it. You didn't use any periods, ever.

Still don't know what the problem is, but ColinShark is on the right track. The only way the hydraulic system could be keeping the clutch from fully engaging would be if it was not releasing the PP all the way.

user 797w349o

Hahaha, sorry about that, I'm bad for run-on sentences, my initial logic was that finding a way to pull the clutch pedal out further using the various adjustments by the pedal, would cause the clutch to engage. By this, I mean, clutch pedal at stock adjustment = clutch not fully engaged, so I would adjust the pedal back further, in turn engaging the clutch, by having the pedal closer to the driver

bumpstart

what exactly is the issue,,, does the clutch slip in all gears,, or does it grind when you select gears?

the former is a worn out clutch,, or over adjusted hydraulics
( usually length of the slave rod,, an issue if you have the NA rod and slave on a turbo box )

the latter is an issue with the hydraulics leaking,, and not having the required throw at the fork
or
its an issue with the spigot bearing ( in rear of crank ) dragging on the input shaft on the gearbox
or
its an issue where you have broken a section of an organic clutch disk away and it is pinched above the rest and so needs double the relaese movent in the fork
or
you have torn the cushion centre springs out of the clutch disc, and they are trapped btween PP and disc

user 797w349o

It slips in all gears, the mechanic believes it's an oil leak on the clutch, but I don't ever smell any oil when I run the car. My friend beliieves either the master cylinder went, the slave seized, or something is out of adjustment

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Disconnect the slave cylinder to see if the fork is holding the TO brg. against the PP. If it isn't, fluid on clutch or PP completely shot.

user 797w349o

Resolved by bringing it back to the mechanic, this was done months ago now, around april or may, my pressure plate had let go.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Let go?

What your mechanic meant to say was that he didn't properly torque the pressure plate bolts down.

Glad it's fixed though. Good follow up too

user 797w349o

Hahaha, sorry for the vague details, I'm terrible still, a lot to learn, actually, I just caused some damage to my rx7 about a month ago, waiting to get the frame pulled, but, that's for another thread :P