Hello,
I am a newbie, sorry if this is a dumb question but
my mechanic who seems to know & understand my car says I need a new clutch.
I said "When" and he said "Anywhere from a month from now to a year depending on how you use it" which sounds bogus.
Also is it true the clutch cannot be adjusted, but only replaced?

The only problem I notice is a little bit of rocking back and forth when
in low gear (and not always). Also not exactly a perfect shift from 1st to second, and a
struggle sometimes going into reverse.

I asked the man who sold me the car
(@133K) how old was the clutch and he said he didn't know.
He had it for 5 years and didn't replace the clutch.

What do you think, should I go with what my mechanic says. I know they will sometimes tell you to replace things that don't exactly need it.

Regards,
Miss Sterling

 

Yes, it can go at any time. Depends how much you drive the car. How hard you drive it, that all determines the life of a clutch.

Are you saying your car is buckling in low RPMs? Thats normal....I don't think you're suppose to coast anything under 2000? If you replace all the tranmission mounts, motor mounts, that might stop what you're describing. When you're trying to put your car in reverse, is it cold or already warmed up? I noticed that RX7's just don't start well in the cold, not even shift well either. That might be a syncro going out

 

As long as you don't have any slippage problems and or trouble getting into gear, then i would leave it and get the use out of it. You will know when the clutch is about ready to go. Typically with a worn clutch disc, accellerating after shifting will cause the rpms to raise but the car will not speed up. Or when starting off from a stop, the same problem will occur. Generally they will smoke and smell bad..

If you are having troubles with getting into reverse, but no other gear, i would look over everything, it could be a synchronizer going out. I'd change the transmission fluid with something like redline or GM synchromesh. Both are about 7-10 dollars a quart, and you will need i think 3 quarts for a NA transmission.

Good luck

 

its normal for having bucking under low rpm, due to the nature of rotory engine.

 

bucking is normal....but how come it sometimes bucks and sometimes doesnt?? i always thought that was wierd.

 

It's related to slop in the drivetrain. Also, a misadjusted TPS can cause nasty bucking.

As for the clutch:

RX-7s have a hydraulic clutch pedal/throwout lever linkage. It's self adjusting, so you can't adjust the clutch like you can on a car with a cable clutch.

And, the lifespan of a clutch totally depends on how it's driven. Not how hard the car is driven, how the clutch is used. If you slip it a lot, it'll wear out faster. If you have the clutch fully locked up by 1000 RPM when starting, and rev match your shifts perfectly, a clutch can easily last 200k+ miles.

-=Russ=-

 

I've had RX7 clutches last as little as 60k miles and as long as 150k miles. I personally think the na clutch is rather weak and not tolerant of abuse.

 

the life of the clutch is dependent on the driver and where the car is driven. ive seen clutches last from days to 250k+ miles.

the less you slip it the longer it will last

 

Thanks to all for all the information! I wrote it down for my mechanic.
I am now visiting him every week because I am getting obsessed with tweaking the girl!

Acc. to what you say, I think the clutch is somewhat worn. If I am not perfectly sync'd with the RPMs,
it will race and not accelerate nicely. Sometimes but not always it has no pick-up taking off from a stop. Fourth to fifth, sometimes it just revs and doesn't accelerate well, but that is I think mostly on an incline.

So, in re the bucking, I should ask my mechanic to:
Check the synchronizer
Possibly replace transmission oil w/redline or GM synchromesh
Look at the transmission mounts and motor mounts

And I should
Not worry too much about the about the bucking at low RPMS.
As there are alot of hills in N. Mexico and I'm constantly shifting,
it is turning into an art driving her on all the hills and climbs.
I am glad to know it is normal... it was kind of getting to me today!

I know all about the warm-up, the last owner emphasized it a dozen times...
he was great and really put me through it...
His son especially was totally woebegone to see her go.

Later

 

A good toolkit is cheaper... you'll want to learn to work on your car yourself.

If it's slipping, you need to replace it ASAP. A slipping clutch is hard on the flywheel, and in extreme cases can damage the flywheel to the point that it's no longer usable.

Transmission & motor mounts, yes. The others will have no effect on bucking, but wouldn't be a bad idea regardless.

-=Russ=-

 

My tired low comp (~90psi) motor will, I shouldn't say pull, accelerate on flat ground in 5th from about 1300. Getting on and off the gas at this speed doesn't really make a big difference, but you can feel it, and my car doesn't buck. It will buck below that (pretty bad at 1k in 5th) but... that's expected. I wouldn't put the number at 2000 is all I'm sayin.

 

driving under 2000 is posible in 5th? Mine Shakes if I try doing that :p

as for bucking its just something you got to learn how to make not happen by just driving it.... I would say just let the clutch out a little slower(not for lifespan resons but for bucking resosns)

 

What would be the average(est) life span of an ACT 6 Puk race clutch on the street?

 

all depending on slippage the better ur heal-toe/revmatching is the easyier your going to be on it....but alot of times race clutches in high traffic areas are stressful and dont bother drive throught unless u wanna brake ur tires loose...at least on heavy race clutch i have a 6puckRB its great! no problems i dunno how much stiffer the ACT is tahn the RB....pressure plate plays a large roll in streetablity! as well!

 

You can't inspect a synchronizer without rebuilding the tranny.
To make it shifting easier, definetly replace the shifter bushings and gear oil. Use a higher end gearoil like Redline's MT-90, Specialtyformulation's MTL-R, Amsoil MTG, Neo 75w90HD, or RoyalPurple Mazgear 75w90. Don't use GM syncromesh'cause its too thin for the tranny.
Flush and bleed your clutch hydraulics. Old fluid and air in the line can cause some problems.

Here are some pics of shifter bushing:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/ssinstal.htm

Tired mounts(from engine to rearend) might add to the oscillations. Get new motor, tranny, and diff mounts. Upgrade to poly or MazdaFactoryRace parts.
Don't lug or short shift. Let the engine rev. Its a rotary and need to rev.
And, give the engine a COMPLETE tuneup which means EVERYTHING. Use OEM or quality components.

If the clutch slips, replace it. If you don't know how to drive a rotary stick shift, then you might need one of these engine torque braces:
http://www.fc3s.org/how_tos/suspensi...ine_brace.html
http://zaxjax.com/towerbar.htm

I don't recommend 'pucked' clutches. Get any full face HD/street clutch. When clutch slipping has been confirmed, have your mechanic replace the clutch/plate/bearings, resurface or replace the flywheel, replace tranny seals, master slave and hose, inspect tranny front cover, pivot, and fork for wear.......

 

my sample of 2, is that its shorter than stock, the copper wears out real quick

 

Changing the tran oil gose a long way for me.

 

Yep, '88 SE. I've taken it down to about 1200, where it had JUST enough power to keep itself going the same speed on flat ground.

 

the more you drive your seven the smoother you will beable to shift it and get it going from a stop. it took me a few days the get it right and now i can pull from a stop and shift really smoothly. it just takes time

 

Alot of this is over my head but
she was driving alot better today, could see the buck coming when I was
going too slow for the gear.
One just has to pay attention and not be impatient or sloppy.

I guess I will go with the clutch replacement, I don't want to damage
any other
interior parts by working her into the ground. Winter is coming and
I have to drive on a dirt road, partly going up a 45 degree incline which she
takes very well. But who needs a clutch slipping then.

Thanks

 

So far I have about 7 Kmi on my ACT 6 puck with HD pressure plate.