Which clutch hydraulics should I use??
05-25-12, 07:52 PM
#1
Which clutch hydraulics should I use??
I want to replace the master and slave, but I'm a bit confused.
Car is an 88 Vert, with a 91 tII engine.
So I'm thinking all s5 clutch hydraulics. The slave is easy enough cause its on a s5 tII transmission, but I'm not sure if the master will bolt up to the s4 firewall. Anyone know for sure?
Car is an 88 Vert, with a 91 tII engine.
So I'm thinking all s5 clutch hydraulics. The slave is easy enough cause its on a s5 tII transmission, but I'm not sure if the master will bolt up to the s4 firewall. Anyone know for sure?
05-25-12, 08:28 PM
#3
Yeah, I found that I could have figured that out on MazdaTrix's site.
Now that I've thought about it some more... might be the hose. Something is telling me that the N/A hose is still on the car from the swap.
The clutch works, but engages about 1mm from the floor... no bueno.
Now that I've thought about it some more... might be the hose. Something is telling me that the N/A hose is still on the car from the swap.
The clutch works, but engages about 1mm from the floor... no bueno.
05-25-12, 10:16 PM
#5
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keep bleeding it.
I did a total clutch/trans job.Got it in,bled it..yay.
went for a ride and Poof..down to the floor.
air was stuck in the system.
Moral of the story,bleed it til it Screams!
I did a total clutch/trans job.Got it in,bled it..yay.
went for a ride and Poof..down to the floor.
air was stuck in the system.
Moral of the story,bleed it til it Screams!
05-25-12, 10:48 PM
#7
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Unless the hose has Bulged..you should notice that though.
But I would guess a bad bleed.
It took FOREVER to get the frigger to get up off the floor.
That job I mentioned?.I changed Every single friggin part,,that meant Clutch master,hose,slave.Clutch.PP.Bearing,TO bearing..New Fluid..
OH and also the Pedal assembly because a Moron though the clutch would magically come BACK to life if the Throw out bearing was Sheared in half!...he Bent the pedals..(yup.)
But I would guess a bad bleed.
It took FOREVER to get the frigger to get up off the floor.
That job I mentioned?.I changed Every single friggin part,,that meant Clutch master,hose,slave.Clutch.PP.Bearing,TO bearing..New Fluid..
OH and also the Pedal assembly because a Moron though the clutch would magically come BACK to life if the Throw out bearing was Sheared in half!...he Bent the pedals..(yup.)
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05-27-12, 06:53 AM
#13
There's a sealing seat on the inside of the slave cylinder, the threads don't seal against anything. If anything, putting teflon tape on them will cause it to not go down all the way to seal internally.
Pull the slave cylinder and take a look inside. Maybe flush it out a little and see if there's some sort of trash inside breaking the seal. You'll probably end up replacing the slave cylinder anyways.
Pull the slave cylinder and take a look inside. Maybe flush it out a little and see if there's some sort of trash inside breaking the seal. You'll probably end up replacing the slave cylinder anyways.
05-27-12, 01:53 PM
#15
The sad thing is that it IS new (O'reilly). The machining of the hole for the bleeder screw wasn't so precise, and I had to teflon tape the screw just to be able to bleed it. Air was coming in through the threads, and up the nylon tube.
There was no real way to know when there wasn't anymore air in the clutch line.
Guess I should just get an OEM one. I'll re-wrap the screw for now, it held for a year, should work for one more week.
There was no real way to know when there wasn't anymore air in the clutch line.
Guess I should just get an OEM one. I'll re-wrap the screw for now, it held for a year, should work for one more week.
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