asiandude15

iTrader: (6)

So I replaced the clutch slave cylinder and have a SS clutch line. I also checked the Clutch Master Cylinder and its working. Anyways so my clutch pedal won't retract. I bled the clutch and put new fluid but it still won't retract. When I step on the clutch the clutch pedal just stays at the floor and maybe retracts like an inch but not all the way up. It has a little pressure but not like normal clutch pressure. I have a ACT 4 puck, Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, and Prolite Flywheel with the counterweight. Any help would be great, I want to drive my car already after my build. Ohh yeah the clutch slave, motor, transmission, is a S4 TII, and the car itself (body, clutch master, brake master) is a 86 base.

Amur_

Are you losing fluid as you pump the clutch? You have one more thing to check, the clutch release cylinder on top of the tranny. Page 6-9 of the s4 FSM.

FirstRotaryExp

iTrader: (3)

If you're not losing clutch fluid you may also want to check to see if the clutch fork isnt broken.

waldog

iTrader: (12)

Can you pop the clutch out with the tip of your foot? I'm not as good as these other rx7 guys. But I had a similar experience and it was my clutch master. It seemed fine but I replaced it anyways and haven't had a problem since.

asiandude15

iTrader: (6)

The clutch fork isn't broken, I checked it when I was doing the build. I don't think I am losing fluid. Clutch release cylinder aka clutch slave cylinder right? I replaced it. I will check my clutch master cylinder and see if it needs replacing. I guess I'll replace it anyways.

DAVIDP

iTrader: (1)

I had the same problem and it turned out to be a small tear in one of the rubber parts in the master cylinder. Upon initial inspection of the parts I didn't notice the tear. Mine would pump fluid but wouldn't build any pressure also. Autozone has a rebuild kit for about $15.00

asiandude15

iTrader: (6)

A new slave cylinder is like 30bucks there with brand new everything. Maybe I'll pick it up. But yeah I will check all of the above tomorrow and see what it is....

cout

I had the same problem -- air was getting into the system, so it had to be bled frequently. I replaced the master and slave cylinders, along with the slave cylinder hose. I replaced the hose with the braided stainless one from mazdatrix, which IMO looks a lot better anyway. Well worth the 18 bucks.

No_love_for_pistons

iTrader: (4)

Just replaced the hydraulics last week. MC and SC usually go out together, or at least mine did. Replaced both as well as flew and hardlines. Performs like night and day now.
One thing I forgot to do while bleeding was after a few times of releasing air, go back and cap off the MC. Once I did that, I got full pressure on the pedal. But if you've already replaced the slave, might as well do the master as well. My hardline was rusted tight, but mazdatrix sells them cheap.

asiandude15

iTrader: (6)

Any idea where I can jsut get a full SS line from the master to the slave. Well I have a short SS line that connects from the slave to the hardline.

lonetlan

I had sort of the same problem, I have a thread on this somewhere.

Basically,First, let the clutch stick to the floor, and crack open the valve on the Slave cylinder.Pump the clutch(it gets messy).Then, close the valve.Pump the clutch a little bit and crack the valve open again. and let the fluid leak; close it after 3 seconds. When you pump the clutch, it has pressure. *This is what I did, it may not work for everyone!* Also, I took my hardline to autozone and said,"give me some pipe this long. They gave me a piece that was perfect! I had to bend it back to the shape of the regular Clutchline though, Oh! Teflon tape the threads on the hardline if you have some.

freemanrx7

Your using NA stuff on a TII and upgrading the clutch setup. I would say buy or rebuild the parts. I bought all new stuff(TII) and paid about $120. You don't need and SS line as the factory one works fine.

MY symptoms were: If I pushed the pedal to the floor and put it in first gear the clutch would engage after about 10 seconds while I was still holding the pedal down. I never lost fluid but did notice it change to a darker color.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CLUTC...Q5fAccessories

RandomHero

iTrader: (2)

Rebuilding hydraulic parts is not fun, and replacements are pretty cheap. Just change em out. But first make sure you are bleeding it right. That is the problem half the time.

Get a buddy with a strong leg to pump the pedal. Have him pump it with his hand if there is no return pressure. Make sure the master cyl. is topped off and the cap is on, run a vacuum line from the bleeder port on your slave cyl. to a clear bottle of some sort.

While the pedal is down just crack that bleeder port open for maybe a second and repeat until no bubbles or air come out of the line.

Not sure if it applies to 7's, but when we had serious bleeding problems on 300zx's with wild clutches, a pedal adjustment was required to get the clutch fully disengaged when the pedal was down.

No_love_for_pistons

iTrader: (4)

I agree.... once I replaced all the hyrdaulics, I noticed the clutch engaged a little higher on the peddle than what I care for. The FSM has the clutch adjustment procedure. Set it correctly, and then if it still doesn't feel right, you can make minor adjustments from there to suit your own "feel"