DRFT211

ok so ive been searching for a couple days now and cant find any answers. my clock on my 91 n/a fc has been flickering and reseting since ive bought it in december. well i took it out and i am trying to trouble shoot what is wrong with it. all the posts i have searched says to re-solder the connections. but it doesnt say which ones. so i was wondering if anyone had a picture of what im supposed to solder or any help. sorry if this has been answered already i just cant seem to find what i need. oh and the clock is sitting right in front of me so if you try and explain something to me hopefully i can figure it out. any help is apperciated..
thanks
Nick

Icemark

man, this was just covered in the last week

You remove the solder where the pins for the plug meet the circuit board on the clock/warning panel. Then you flow new solder back in.

VacavilleFC

i agree pictures would help

RETed

90% of the time, it's the main connector solder points you worry about.

But, to ensure your resolder job works, you should do *ALL* of them in there.

I've done resolder jobs on just the main plug, and it doesn't fix the problem all the time.
Now, I hit *ALL* the solder points.

This is probably why you can't find an answer for which particular ones...
You should do them *ALL*.


-Ted

DRFT211

yeah sorry if this has been covered alot, you can delete it if you want, but im still confused. if i take a picture of it can you tell me what to resolder? lmk
thanks
Nick

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/clocks-cold-solder-joint-575024/

I was the one that asked about this last week, lol. The general consensus is to redo it all. Make sure you use the right solder otherwise a couple of years down the way you'll have the same problem.

Airceo13

here is a really good link, u might have to cut and paste coz i suck at linking anyways, it should tell you how to fix ur clock

http://teamfc3s.org/faq/index.shtml

DRFT211

welp i just went to town on the plug/connection solders and it seemed to work so far. thanks for the advice all

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Just curious, but what is the correct solder? I thought that there was pretty much one type for electronics, 60/40. I mean there are different blends, such as 63/37, but all that does is change how careful you have to be with doing the work.

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

Anyone know any good ways to remove the old solder without a desolder iron?

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

You can get a soldapullt (solder sucker) for 10 bucks or so at fry's. Heat up the solder with the soldering iron and then pull it out with the solder sucker.
Here's what to look for: http://shop2.outpost.com/product/152...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG
There are other nicer ones for 15-20.

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, I didn't know they had something like that. Problem is there's no fry's around here just an autozone and i already picked up the solder iron from them but didn't see a soldapult or a desolder iron. oh well. as for your previous question it's the amount of acid/flux in the solder or the amount you put on. if you don't burn it all off it will eventually turn into a cold solder point(I think that's what it said... ). so flow it hot, flow it right, and make it shine.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-tell-if-joint-has-cold-solder-452210/

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Acid flux on electronics? According to my teacher, acid flux is only used in plumbing as it would destroy electronics. Now RMA I could see, but not acid. And yes, I am familiar with how to solder properly so I know about how to avoid colder solder joints and such.

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

lol, i'm just ignorant and know only 1/2 of what i'm talking about. I get terms and everything between all discombobled but my thinking is right. but hey i just re-soldered my clock and it works wonderfuly, no flickers or anything and best yet I took pictures... that is until i started desoldering.

Okay, so here's the pictures. (note for mod, you can use this pictures in the faq for future refrence if you want). I have more pictures, but i think these give everyone a general Idea of what's in store

InsomniacFC

iTrader: (4)

You can usually get a desoldering tool at wal-mart or radioshack. I got my last one at radioshack and it was about $5. You can order them online at Grainger too....

http://www.grainger.com/

DRFT211

i just resoldered the 12 points that are in the 5th picture

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

funny you should say that, I picked one up earlier today from radio shack and a few other supplies i know i'll need as i start going through this car. I even took pictures of the stuff i bought as tools you will need. lol.


Yeah I resoldered those, but i noticed some other places on mine that needed to be redone. They were actually on the internal side of the LCD (not the LCD itself, but the back side of it where the solder points are). To get that I had to desolder the switch (you can see it on the ground in one of the pictures). I'm hoping that there's no cold solder points on any of the LED or the Bridges. That would be a pain with the desolder iron tip i have. But i'm happy. It's done.

Granted none of these pictures are in any particular order (Since this is such a common problem here are more pictures if anyone cares to see what some steps are going to look like)....I really wish i would have gotten the pen type soldering iron, would have been alot more accurate...

InsomniacFC

iTrader: (4)

Just resoldered all the connections in mine and plugged it back in. Success! Works like a champ and holds the time. I have to agree with the suggestions above and solder all the connections, not just the ones around the plug. I found quite a few bad solder points that left the wire/point not even touching the contact at all that were no where near the plug. As long as you have it open you might as well do them all.

I do recommend some sort of desoldering tool in case you blob two contacts together. I got one at radioshack for $3.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Cheap radio shack equipment :cringe:
Maybe I'm a snob when it comes to soldering equipment, but I prefer my weller soldering iron. Its about 35 bucks or so, I think at lowes or home depot. It has 2 tips (flat and point) and a replaceable 30 watt heating element. I also wouldn't use anything less than the $10 soldapullt I linked to earlier, but thats just me.

Icemark

Remember you must remove the old solder before flowing new solder in.

If you just re-heat the joint it traps the corrosion and old flux of the failed joint inside the joint and it will fail again.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Damn, I new I forgot to put something in my post.
I was going to say that the solder sucker isn't an option, as you have to have it to remove the bad solder joint.

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

De-soldering wick is the way to go!!!!