Cleaned the BAC, New issues.
09-22-09 | 02:12 PM
#1
Cleaned the BAC, New issues.
Cleaned the BAC out because it wanted to die on a cold start/idle.
Now, Idle is way more erratic and its harder to keep the car from dying on a cold start. As the engine dies is pops and sputters a little.
Once it gets a little warmed up, it will idle fine for a bit until I give it some gas, sometimes it will die....sometimes it wont and when it goes back to idle its a bouncy idle.
Whenever I push in the clutch to stop at a stop sign it dies almost every time.
Also get a pop sound and puff of white smoke whenever I shift into second gear from 5k or higher rpms, which is usually did before but not so much the white smoke.
When I first got it, before I messed with anything it, I had none of these issues aside from wanting to die from a cold start but could be delt with by holding the throttle at 1.5k rpms until it got warmed up a bit. once it was warmed up it would idle fine but really high. (1.5k-2k rpms) Checked the tps and it was at something like 2.5k ohms. Set it to 1k ohms and didnt seem to effect much. so thats when I decide to clean the BAC and all these new issues appeared.
Im beginning to think the TPS is shot. At full throttle it is well over 8k ohms and says 0 ohms as I move the throttle unless I do it very very slowly. Could a bad TPS be the cause of ALL these problems?
Only mods are cone intake, exhaust and the previous ownerput in a Jet "chip" on the ecu. Engine is a '86 Tii.
Now, Idle is way more erratic and its harder to keep the car from dying on a cold start. As the engine dies is pops and sputters a little.
Once it gets a little warmed up, it will idle fine for a bit until I give it some gas, sometimes it will die....sometimes it wont and when it goes back to idle its a bouncy idle.
Whenever I push in the clutch to stop at a stop sign it dies almost every time.
Also get a pop sound and puff of white smoke whenever I shift into second gear from 5k or higher rpms, which is usually did before but not so much the white smoke.
When I first got it, before I messed with anything it, I had none of these issues aside from wanting to die from a cold start but could be delt with by holding the throttle at 1.5k rpms until it got warmed up a bit. once it was warmed up it would idle fine but really high. (1.5k-2k rpms) Checked the tps and it was at something like 2.5k ohms. Set it to 1k ohms and didnt seem to effect much. so thats when I decide to clean the BAC and all these new issues appeared.
Im beginning to think the TPS is shot. At full throttle it is well over 8k ohms and says 0 ohms as I move the throttle unless I do it very very slowly. Could a bad TPS be the cause of ALL these problems?
Only mods are cone intake, exhaust and the previous ownerput in a Jet "chip" on the ecu. Engine is a '86 Tii.
09-22-09 | 02:25 PM
#2
Full Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: PA
"Whenever I push in the clutch to stop at a stop sign it dies almost every time."
I Have the same problem, when i press the clutch in and hit the brakes after its warmed up only though...i watched my volt meter guy and it drops from around 14 to like 10?
I Have the same problem, when i press the clutch in and hit the brakes after its warmed up only though...i watched my volt meter guy and it drops from around 14 to like 10?
09-22-09 | 02:34 PM
#3
Once my car is completely warmed up (talking like..10-15 mins of driving), it doesn't die at a stop sign.
09-22-09 | 03:05 PM
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 479
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles
Sounds like it is going too lean during warm up and decelleration
Check for trouble codes
Closed loop operation (search in this forum for 'green lamp checker')
Timing
Advance
Set idle speed and mixture
Replace that TPS... it should max out at 4.5k ohms, and should have no dropouts (0 ohm points) throughout its range
But if the TPS is showing 1k ohms at idle throttle, there is likely another cause
Check for vacuum leaks (may be causing a lean mixture at idle)
Check BAC operation (althoug I don't think it is the problem, but easy to check)
Check EGR operation (if staying open at idle, causes rough idle/stall)
Check Anti Afterburn Valve operation (adds air during decelleration, i.e. when you put the clutch in and come off the throttle)
Stethescope the primary injectors, listen for normal operating sounds (clicking)
Check for spark on all 4 high tension leads, but especially on the leading coil
When was the last time the injectors were professionally cleaned?
When was the last time the O2 sensor was replaced?
Plugs fouled?
Ignition leads ok (check resistance)?
Use procedures in the FSM at http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1986_1988/
be sure to look at ch 4b (turbo) not 4a (n/a)
Except for trouble codes, which you can check using this procedure
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html
For closed loop operation, see the FSM section on that, except make your own ($3) checker, a simple, 1 lamp version of the code checker. Search this forum for my posts containing the words 'green lamp checker'
Check for trouble codes
Closed loop operation (search in this forum for 'green lamp checker')
Timing
Advance
Set idle speed and mixture
Replace that TPS... it should max out at 4.5k ohms, and should have no dropouts (0 ohm points) throughout its range
But if the TPS is showing 1k ohms at idle throttle, there is likely another cause
Check for vacuum leaks (may be causing a lean mixture at idle)
Check BAC operation (althoug I don't think it is the problem, but easy to check)
Check EGR operation (if staying open at idle, causes rough idle/stall)
Check Anti Afterburn Valve operation (adds air during decelleration, i.e. when you put the clutch in and come off the throttle)
Stethescope the primary injectors, listen for normal operating sounds (clicking)
Check for spark on all 4 high tension leads, but especially on the leading coil
When was the last time the injectors were professionally cleaned?
When was the last time the O2 sensor was replaced?
Plugs fouled?
Ignition leads ok (check resistance)?
Use procedures in the FSM at http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1986_1988/
be sure to look at ch 4b (turbo) not 4a (n/a)
Except for trouble codes, which you can check using this procedure
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html
For closed loop operation, see the FSM section on that, except make your own ($3) checker, a simple, 1 lamp version of the code checker. Search this forum for my posts containing the words 'green lamp checker'
Last edited by calpatriot; 09-22-09 at 03:13 PM.
09-24-09 | 05:48 PM
#5
Brought it to a Mazda tech at a local mazda dealer, they wont touch the car because the previous did a shitty job wiring in the Tii engine. Code reader wont pick anything up because of it.
There telling me...its smoking alot because the Apex seals are pretty much shot. They assume anyways since they havnt touched it. I dont believe em but..the other day when I was fighting it to warm up I burned nearly 5 quarts of oil.
There telling me...its smoking alot because the Apex seals are pretty much shot. They assume anyways since they havnt touched it. I dont believe em but..the other day when I was fighting it to warm up I burned nearly 5 quarts of oil.
09-24-09 | 07:58 PM
#6
Also, once the car is warmed up. it runs and drives fine....aside from the bouncy idle and puff of smoke when shifting while above 6k rpms.
Im gonna first try and get the exposed wires fixed and replace the TPS aswell as attempt some of the tests mentioned above. Feel free to add more ideas.
Im gonna first try and get the exposed wires fixed and replace the TPS aswell as attempt some of the tests mentioned above. Feel free to add more ideas.
