choosing wideband
#1
Thread Starter
24 yrs driving 2nd Gen RX
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 525
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From: A Mile Closer to God (Denver)
choosing wideband
Hi gang,
I have an '88 TII with Microtech LXT12, Atkins rebuild with port & polish and Racing Beat Rev TII Complete Exhaust system (not sure on the injectors, but plan on doing some disassembly during this project to ID them). I'm going to upgrade to wideband sensor and would appreciate your learned input on my choice.
It has been suggested to me that the best choice would be the Innovate LC-1 and it's well within budget.
However, after perusing the Innovate site, I see the LM-2, LM1 all the accessories and other stuff. Rocket88 linked me in a previous post to installing a third-party display in place of the dash clock and I'd like to make that mod. Otherwise, I'm reading to educate myself, but would appreciate some brain-dump from the local gurus.
Thanks!
I have an '88 TII with Microtech LXT12, Atkins rebuild with port & polish and Racing Beat Rev TII Complete Exhaust system (not sure on the injectors, but plan on doing some disassembly during this project to ID them). I'm going to upgrade to wideband sensor and would appreciate your learned input on my choice.
It has been suggested to me that the best choice would be the Innovate LC-1 and it's well within budget.
However, after perusing the Innovate site, I see the LM-2, LM1 all the accessories and other stuff. Rocket88 linked me in a previous post to installing a third-party display in place of the dash clock and I'd like to make that mod. Otherwise, I'm reading to educate myself, but would appreciate some brain-dump from the local gurus.
Thanks!
#3
The LM-1 and LM-2 controllers are separate handsets that are powered through the cigarette lighter, and are not meant to be connected to an in-dash gauge (though there's probably a way). They're not the wire-in type of controller; they're more like something you'd have so you could use it on multiple cars. They do however feature datalogging if you use the RPM input, but your Microtech may already be able to do this.
#6
I have LC-1s in my FC and my Corolla and have never had issues with either.
I had to replace the sensor on my FC and just went to advance auto and bought an o2 sensor for a VW and it worked great
I had to replace the sensor on my FC and just went to advance auto and bought an o2 sensor for a VW and it worked great
#7
Check-out this thread for more info:
https://www.rx7club.com/haltech-forum-62/what-wideband-you-guys-using-901504/
Not much love for the LC-1, although I prefer it to the AEM due to it's slow response time.
https://www.rx7club.com/haltech-forum-62/what-wideband-you-guys-using-901504/
Not much love for the LC-1, although I prefer it to the AEM due to it's slow response time.
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#8
#14
Are there any good controllers that have just the LED readout like the PLX M-300? I'd like to do a pillar dual gauge pod for oil press/temp, and would rather not have another round gauge for the A/F.
Unless there are any good a-pillar 3 gauge pods?
Unless there are any good a-pillar 3 gauge pods?
Clock replacement writeup using LC-1 & the dynotune LED gauge: https://www.rx7club.com/interior-exterior-audio-26/fc-write-up-replacing-stock-clock-something-useful-803594/#post9146710
I found a few other gauges that could be adapted to 0-5V wideband controller outputs, but this one was the best.
#16
#17
You can use this gauge with the LC-1 controller: http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=171. It has install instructions specifically for the LC-1. I don't know why anyone complains about the LC-1 either; it's been perfectly fine for me. Maybe it's the calibration feature they don't like, but having control over it is something I prefer. To each his own.
Clock replacement writeup using LC-1 & the dynotune LED gauge: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?p=9146710
I found a few other gauges that could be adapted to 0-5V wideband controller outputs, but this one was the best.
Clock replacement writeup using LC-1 & the dynotune LED gauge: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?p=9146710
I found a few other gauges that could be adapted to 0-5V wideband controller outputs, but this one was the best.
#18
Engine, Not Motor
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
The only problem is that AEM and Innovate use radically different control circuits. Innovate in particular seems to build a circuit that is fragile, noise sensitive and freaks out if the ground isn't exactly perfect. Maybe AEM does more damping to their gauge, but at least it works.
#20
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#22
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
The only problem is that AEM and Innovate use radically different control circuits. Innovate in particular seems to build a circuit that is fragile, noise sensitive and freaks out if the ground isn't exactly perfect. Maybe AEM does more damping to their gauge, but at least it works.
#23
The only problem is that AEM and Innovate use radically different control circuits. Innovate in particular seems to build a circuit that is fragile, noise sensitive and freaks out if the ground isn't exactly perfect. Maybe AEM does more damping to their gauge, but at least it works.
Agreed, I installed a brand new LC1 just before putting my car on the dyno, I made absolutely sure I had my grounds in the same location as they discribed, and did everything the instructions told me to do.
Put the car on the dyno, the AFR would flash 9.0:1, then flash 20.0:1, back and forth.
We thought it was a faulty sensor, so I pulled the sensor and threw in another brand new one... Same thing!
Pull the innovate out, use my tuners AEM uego, everything is fine. So I sold the LC1 and bought a new AEM through my tuner and never had any problems, 6 months later.
If I had all of the entry level widebands infront of me however, I would pick the NGK AFX for the simple fact that it can use the NTK sensor as well as the bosch LSU. The NTK is less sensitive to leaded fuel and is a better choice for those who want a WBO2 and run C16 or any other leaded gas.
#24
Please explain, my friend has a JAW and it has worked flawlessly, in some cases better than some of the big name sensors (they tested multiples sensors on the same car)
Edit, lets not forget that the Jaw is the predeccesor to the Naw http://14point7.com/forum/index.php?board=14.0
#25
So my new wide-band came with a new O2 sensor bung. Is there any reason to leave the factory narrow-band sensor in for the ECU and just use the wide-band for the gauge? I would assume the wide-band is plenty good enough to supply a signal to the ECU, but welding in the extra bung wouldn't be particularly difficult if there's any reason to use both.
Thanks
Andy
Thanks
Andy