satch

iTrader: (1)

You already determined the Blue/Red wires have voltage. When you jumper the Blue/R wires to the Blue/G wires you're transferring the voltage by a total distance of a quarter of an inch if that. Can you tell me whats going on for I don't understand how you can't jumper a wire from one terminal to another? You are connecting two Blue/Red wires to two Blue/Green wires arent you? When you do this jumpering of the relay are you leaving the plug disconnected as you should. Take a jumer wire and pick one of the Blue/Red wires and jumper it to one of the Blue/Green wires and prove that the voltage is being passed onto the Blue/Green wire from the Blue/Red wire. You want the key to on and the fuel check connector jumpered to test for voltage. If the voltage is not present on the Blue/Green wire then choose the another B/R wire to provide the voltage from as you have three choices to choose from. I just don't understand how you cannot get voltage to go from one wire to another in the very same plug as it makes no sense on any level.

Edit: When you jumper the wires you're supposed to jumper from the back of the plug because when you stab the wire into the back of the plug the wire grabs much easier.

datz

hey thats a great tip! thanx!

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

k... i will jumper the blue green wires on the bottom of the connector with one of the blue red wires on the top of the connector that have battery voltage..i will jumper the fuel check connector too and check for voltage a the pump at the blue green wire..tomorrow though... i gotta go to work

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

aite so i disconnected fuel pump relay connector and at the harness, i jumpered one of the blue red wires on the top of the terminal to one of the blue green wires on the bottom of the terminal.. then i jumpered the fuel check connector. turned ignition to on and i hear fuel rushing through system and voltage at the blue green wire at the fuel pump was 10.13v

satch

iTrader: (1)

Now either try to start the car or deflood the engine and try to start the car and check to see if the pump makes a similar sound as before.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

k sound went away... i dont know how or why... but it still hard to start and barley stays on... i removed the pump to check the connections i made.. theryre okay but the strainer is clogged bad!! it looks like paint or clay.. i have no idea how that got in there... theres particles floating in the gas... so what should i clean out the tank with... just plain water???

satch

iTrader: (1)

Using the advanced search function will garner results such as........

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...aning+gas+tank

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

alright so i replaced the strainter and it still idles like poop.. but now i can go past 4k rpm in gear. oh yeah and the code fuel pump resistor code went away. i found a vac leak so ima take care of that once the engine cools down... would the water thermo sensor code affect the idle???

i still got codes 30 33 and 38.. which correct me if im wrong... all have to do with the ACV.... but dis ACV has no electrical connector so do i have to live with the check engine light on????

satch

iTrader: (1)

Dirt/grime in the fuel system might be responsible for the poor idle among other things. Is the TPS set to 1 volt after the engine has been thoroughly warmed up? Vacuum leak could also create havoc with the idle.

Believe so. Answer to check engine light (CEL) question.