LittleCon

i was just wondering if there were any cheap ways to get some more stoping power

i dont want to buy new rotars (just yet) and i know better pads will help, but what else?


also: do vented/slotted rotors even help THAT much if the disk is the same size?

ZeroDrift

iTrader: (1)

Better tires.

Apathy

Yea, look on Ebay. You can five a find a full (F&R) set of Brembo drilled/slotted rotors on Ebay for around $200-300. That is a good price. Add the rotors w/ some nice brake pads and tires. I say, w/ about $300-400 into your brakes (that's just pads a rotors) and some nice tires for around $255 (that's how much 4 15 or 16 in Falken Ziex's cost in my neighborhood) you can have good stopping power.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

rotarrrrrrs!!!!

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Vented/slotted rotors would be advantageous on a track car, but not very advantageous (if at all) for a daily driver or weekend fun car that is moderately driven. Mostly they just help disperse heat and can be made of better material (lighter for instance).

I would suggest just making sure your stock system is working properly. Get new brake lines, ensure your pads are in spec, etc.

The biggest factor in stopping power (considering the braking system in our cars is more than adequate) is your tires.

If you're running 4 lugs or non 4-piston calipers, I would upgrade to those. They're plug/play and cheap because you can get a good used set.

RETed

Why?
Are you tracking your car?



NO.


-Ted

LittleCon

no i won't be taking my car to the track any time soon.

what about different brake fluids? or maybe a larger (smaller?) Master Cylinder?

when i say cheap i mean: the pads are gonna cost the most...

takahashiRyosukeFC3S

rotors, pads, tires... yeah those are the cheap ones. you could also get a new brake master cylinder and use 2 on your car. you can build a mechanical brake balancing system with 2 master's. ie you can tune your brakes so that they all lock at the same time instead of having the rears lock first. your front tires do carry approx 80%-85% of your stopping power. properly tuned you can get maximum stopping power from both front and rear.

Ryosuke

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

In that case, just make sure everything on the system is working correctly. Replace old lines, inspect the rotors, etc. Despite not having ABS (at least for me), my 7 has good stopping power in comparison to a lot of modern cars.

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

I'm surprised no one has said flush the fluid. Crappy, hydrated, aerated, brake fluid will make the brakes feel like mush and reduce braking ability.

The 2G RX7 with the 4 piston fronts and ventilated rear discs is what is one of the best OEM braking systems avaialble of that era. I doubt you'd need more.
Crispy

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

If your rotors, pads, and calipers are in good shape I'd look into replacing/rebuilding your master cylinder, picking up a set of stainless steel brake lines from Mazdatrix (~$80), then setting you pedal freeplay a bit tighter.

After I took care of those items on my GXL the tires became the limiting factor and the pedal feels great.

Icemark

"Cheap" and "brake upgrades" should never go together.

ZeroDrift

iTrader: (1)

+1

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

I figured that was part of the "etc." But yes, replacing the brake fluid is a cheap way to improve your braking.

Agreed. http://www.edmunds.com/edweb/highperf.html

120 feet for the 7 is better than, for example, an Acura NSX, Ford Mustang GT, Honda Prelude, Porsche 911 Carrera. Those are from cars made in 2000. That's with more than 10 years difference...

RN's X-7

Amen Icemark, never ever skimp on the thing that can get you from 80-0. You could always use a tree to help stop you (haha). I have a set of s5 4pot cali's for sale cheap. Work great just need to be cleaned up and painted.

Pat McGroin

Drilled rotors are a waste of money. Also, since the original reason slots were created does not exist anymore, some race teams claim that slots refresh the surface of the brake pads.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

Better tires and pads. If you have 4 lugs go to a 5 lug conversion. I think the 4-lugs are adequite for a streetcar, but for that extra power, 5 lugs rock!

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

If you have a 5lug you won't need much more on the street than the stock brake system in good working order. We have to run a basically stock system racing and regularly bring the car down from over 140mph over and over again.

Fresh fluid will help and its cheap, then for better 'feel' go with braided lines instead of stock rubber for the flexing part. High performance street pads will help as well, do not buy racing pads they need to get hot before they work well and you will roll through the first stop sign you come to in the morning.

If your rotors are within spec they should be fine on the street. Finally, tires, sticky tires will help but are the most expensive so I listed them last. Personally I go for the best wet traction for street tires, I figure I shouldn't be driving as fast as a good tire will allow when its dry anyway. At least a good wet tire will help me save myself when most people will just slide into the accident with their eyes closed and both feet on the brake pedal.

bacek

umm the cheapest way to get better braking is to just get fresh pads and stickier tires.... but i dont see how thats cheap at all lol...

RETed

Are you trying to imply you're doing something illegal on public roads?


-Ted

tinvestor

Yeah if you dont like the way your car stops ( assuming you have 4 piston cllipers) there is either a problem somewhere or you need to jump into a 67 mustang to gain a little perspective so you can appreciate what you have. Otherwise get the 4 piston upgrade.

First check your lines if they have never been replaced you probably should replace them anyway, get the stainless ones they have a nice feel. I was doing about 100 getting onto a 25 mph ramp when I blew a left front line, thank God I am a great driver LOL. I had to grab the E-brake and pump the hell out of the pedal I passed a guy on the shoulder of the ramp and had to pull over after that to try to get my large intestine, small intestine, and stomach, back down my throat.

ProjectR13B

iTrader: (1)

good tires and ABS. if your not goingto be doing any heavy breaking you really done need to worry about rotors or larger callipers, unless you have the 1 POTs on the front, then a conversion to the 4 POT would probably be best. and if your looking for cheap rotors, Power Slot. like $50 or a bit more for slotted rotors.

ProjectR13B

iTrader: (1)

HIGH FIVE TO THAT ONE! FIVE LUG DOES INDEED ROCK!!!!

LittleCon

my dad has a '66 fastback, belive me, im glad i drive the RX7

dont get me wrong, i think the brakes are strong (for the era) but im looking at this from a safty view. For example: i was driving my friend's GTi the other day when some kid on a scooter jumped out in front of me... the GTi stoped SO fast it was amazing.

i want that lol

im just trying to learn some tips and tricks i guess. I just need to keep asking questions.

(for example) how does a 5 lug conversion help? and what spindle can i swap?

Jager

iTrader: (10)

Go look at a KVR upgrade or PM Ted for a price on a Willroad upgrade .

Try 4k.