changing fluids, conversation and advice
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changing fluids, conversation and advice
I have done a lot of searching, but there are a thing or two I need to ask.
Ok, now I have the trany fluid replaced with Royal Purple 75W90, and what a difference. Now I just need those shifter bushings I want to replace the rear diff. fluid with it too, but I can't get the dam fill bolt off!! The drain came off easily, but I didn't drain it before trying the fill, heh, fun situation that would be. And suggestions to get it off easier? It has been doused in Liquid Wrench all day...
Now, after battling with that, I have replaced the old oil with Royal Purple 10W30. That went smooth as always. Now I am looking at coolant. The thermostat should be replaced now anyways, right? OEM is the best, but how much do they usually cost? And the ratio should be 50-70% antifreeze, right? Fill with water a few times to clean it all out should be good enough, ehh? I think that covers everything, doesn't it? I all ready put new plugs in last oil change, so those should be fine...later
Ok, now I have the trany fluid replaced with Royal Purple 75W90, and what a difference. Now I just need those shifter bushings I want to replace the rear diff. fluid with it too, but I can't get the dam fill bolt off!! The drain came off easily, but I didn't drain it before trying the fill, heh, fun situation that would be. And suggestions to get it off easier? It has been doused in Liquid Wrench all day...
Now, after battling with that, I have replaced the old oil with Royal Purple 10W30. That went smooth as always. Now I am looking at coolant. The thermostat should be replaced now anyways, right? OEM is the best, but how much do they usually cost? And the ratio should be 50-70% antifreeze, right? Fill with water a few times to clean it all out should be good enough, ehh? I think that covers everything, doesn't it? I all ready put new plugs in last oil change, so those should be fine...later
#2
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23mm (or 24mm?, the top one's one, and the bottom's the other) socket on a 1/2" breaker bar should get it...
Make sure you use distilled water for the rad, even when flushing...
Make sure you use distilled water for the rad, even when flushing...
Last edited by WAYNE88N/A; 07-08-04 at 09:53 PM.
#3
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
Try soaking it in PB blaster over night and give it another try.
Might as well replace the T stat as well (OEM only). I got mine from www.mazdaformance.com for about $13
Might as well replace the T stat as well (OEM only). I got mine from www.mazdaformance.com for about $13
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Originally posted by WAYNE88N/A
23mm (or 24mm?, the top one's one, and the bottom's the other) socket on a 1/2" breaker bar should get it...
Make sure you use distilled water for the rad, even when flushing...
23mm (or 24mm?, the top one's one, and the bottom's the other) socket on a 1/2" breaker bar should get it...
Make sure you use distilled water for the rad, even when flushing...
Funny you should mention the sizes! I was looking all around for a 23mm, but coulden't find one! I had the 22mm(too small) and the 24mm(too loose). So I tried the 24mm, and it rounded. Not bad though, it was a 12pt socket. I really wish I had a 23mm 6pt socket, I know that would get the job done. Right now, I just keep re-soaking it in Liquid Wrench, and using a huge crescent wrench, but it's rounding a little. I had a friend bring his tool box over, he assured me he had it... aparently, he thought I said a 13mm, wtf? I think I am going to have to ask some of my neibors tomorrow...later
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Well, in the manual it says 35-45% antifreeze for my tempuratures, guess that's fine.
And another question. In the product guide, it states, and I quote:
"Becaus of Royal Purple's superior oxidation stability and its ability to clean deposits left by previous oils, Royal Purple recomends changing its oil every 12,000 miles, providing substantial savings to you. (Filters should continue to be changed every 3,00 miles, with top-offs as needed.)"
Anyone try that?...later
And another question. In the product guide, it states, and I quote:
"Becaus of Royal Purple's superior oxidation stability and its ability to clean deposits left by previous oils, Royal Purple recomends changing its oil every 12,000 miles, providing substantial savings to you. (Filters should continue to be changed every 3,00 miles, with top-offs as needed.)"
Anyone try that?...later
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Well, in the manual it says 35-45% antifreeze for my tempuratures, guess that's fine.
And another question. In the product guide, it states, and I quote:
"Becaus of Royal Purple's superior oxidation stability and its ability to clean deposits left by previous oils, Royal Purple recomends changing its oil every 12,000 miles, providing substantial savings to you. (Filters should continue to be changed every 3,000 miles, with top-offs as needed.)"
Anyone try that?...later
Edit: WTF? It said there was a proxy error! why did it post twice.......later
And another question. In the product guide, it states, and I quote:
"Becaus of Royal Purple's superior oxidation stability and its ability to clean deposits left by previous oils, Royal Purple recomends changing its oil every 12,000 miles, providing substantial savings to you. (Filters should continue to be changed every 3,000 miles, with top-offs as needed.)"
Anyone try that?...later
Edit: WTF? It said there was a proxy error! why did it post twice.......later
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JUst ordered a new thermostat, fuel filter(Don't think it has been replaced by previous owner ever), and radiator cap from mazda performance. Man, I didn't know these parts would be as cheap as there, a lot more at the dealer...later
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shifter bushings: http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/shiftbsh.htm
How much of a difference did you get with royal purple? I cant Imagine how it would be so different that you could feel it, but id love to find out, since ive only used crappy generic gear oil
I really want to try either redline, or RP
How much of a difference did you get with royal purple? I cant Imagine how it would be so different that you could feel it, but id love to find out, since ive only used crappy generic gear oil
I really want to try either redline, or RP
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Hmm, the notification for thread replies is not working, ohh well...
I was looking for a how to on coolant changing, flushing, but can't find any. I know there out there, I just can't find them
And yes, I do notice a difference. It shifts, and goes into gear much smoother, and my intermittant grinding is gone . I would do it again, and I will when it's time...later
I was looking for a how to on coolant changing, flushing, but can't find any. I know there out there, I just can't find them
And yes, I do notice a difference. It shifts, and goes into gear much smoother, and my intermittant grinding is gone . I would do it again, and I will when it's time...later
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you def notice the difference with switching to synthetic oil in your tranny...much smoother shifts.
as far as oil goes, i just stick to every 2500 change the oil (castrol gtx). i know my oil can go longer, but conventional oil is cheap enough to do quick changes.
with my other cars (non-rotary), i change the oil every 7k with syn oil.
j.ho
as far as oil goes, i just stick to every 2500 change the oil (castrol gtx). i know my oil can go longer, but conventional oil is cheap enough to do quick changes.
with my other cars (non-rotary), i change the oil every 7k with syn oil.
j.ho
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