Well I finally got a chance to finish up changing out my omp today. I tested it before put it in and everything fell withing specifications. But today when i went to test drive, it went into limp mode again.

Befor it was throwing code 27 and 37. Now it just shows 27.

i tested the wires running to the ecu for continuity and they all looked good, and I opened up the ECU to see if the resistor for the omp looked burned out but it looked fine as well.

The omp came off of a Jspec engine so I know it COULD be bad but I'm wondering what else this could be.

Any ideas out there?

Thanks

 

I don't have the answer but have the same systems. I hope someone can answer this?

 

I'm going to test the TPS, but the manual dosn't say if its the WB or the NB that causes the code 27

 

Both tested a little high while closed, but my guess is that is because of the thermo wax not being warmed up. other than that the readings look fine for both WB and NB tps.

 

check page d-17 in the FSM.

http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_g...ion_system.pdf

 

Did you reset the ECU? Could it be a residual code?

 

Not a residual code, i reset the ecu. Both via the batt, and my rtek. Showed no codes, then after about 1 mile, limp mode, code 27.

I did all of the tests, and then some, from the fsm, continuty, 12v from ecu, etc. And as I said the OMP tested fine befor i put it in.

Gotta wonder about a system where one dead item can kill another, which then can kill the replacement, which then kills the other replacment and so on and so on.

 

Bird in hand usually saves nine. When this problem occurs it's best to replace both the ECU and OMP and limit any carryover effect.

 

problem is the ecu is a rtek

 

A bad ECU will kill and OMP, and a bad OMP will fry and ECU. Or it's the wiring harness, and anyone who has read any of my FC threads knows my struggle with that...

 

Nice I found this thread today just now!

Mine is throwing code 27 as well, I haven't changed my MOP, but there is always oil in the injector lines, making me believe that it actually does inject oil all the time, as it usually empties the lines when I disconnect the MOP and crank it for some seconds (for draining engine for fuel and oil).

I know there is supposed to be a connector on the pump as well as the double one on the harness, might the plug on the pump itself be the bad one, as the harness one is rubber sealed and looks fine?

 

Eh? Rtek's eliminate the OMP and require premixing.

 

I would talk to Rtek about sending them the ECU and have them remove OMP. It is within the realm of possiblities that they actually remove that resistor from the ECU. Perhaps your work around is to remove OMP functionality and buy a block off plate.

 

Which rtek are u using? Stage 1 or 2? If its stage 2 just turn it off and premix. Should take care of the problem. If its stage 1, it should of been "deleted " from the ecu to begin with.

 

I just ment that if i did the OMP and the ECU at the same time it would have to be sent in and rechiped. And of course that runs the risk of being damaged as well.

I am running a Rtek 2.1 at the moment, which lets me bypass the OMP codes (which let me get home) and I am running premix at the moment. The only real problem is that I dont want to. I want the damn OMP to work.

And jeff no need to send it in, I just click a box, and no more limp mode.

 

If you want it get a mechanical one from the S4

 

I was thinking about going that way if I cant get the electric one working. Lots of work to make a manual one work though

 

Nice! Maybe someday I'll have reason to upgrade from a 1.7 to 2+

 

uhg...i hate omp's.