jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Ok, I rebuilt my engine, turbo and removed my haltech, large turbo... etc.
The car is back to OEM, Including ECU and all that good stuff.
The harness I got for the engine had a missing CAS Plug. So I soldered in a new plug.
here is what I have
CAS | ECU(engine Harness
-------------------------------------------------------------
Green | Green
White with Black | Blue
Red | Red
White | White

Could somebody go and check to ensure this is correct?
S5 Turbo for anybody who is wonder.
Right now the car will not start and shows no RPM on the Tach. It isn't starting because it isn't sending spark at all.

Edit Sorry mistyped it Corrected above;

HAILERS

I see on a S4:

White to white.

Blue to a white wire with black stripe (might be a blue stripe but I don't think so)

Red to red.

Green to green.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Hmm that is what I have I just double Checked I can't figure out why I don't have any spark Even if I pull the cas out and spin it by hand still nothing... odd.

Thanks Hailers I appreciate it.

HAILERS

The ENGINE fuse in the interior determines if the Main Relay gets pulled in to supply power to the ECU and the fuel pump. And you know about the EGI COMP and EGI INJ (series four cars anyway) have to be good.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

stupid question but you did check the fuses right?

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

lol... yes first things I checked was the fuses when there was nothing,
Any other thoughts?

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Ok so fiddling arround some more I checked my grounds, checked and tested all the fuses... ensured there was <1.0V comming from the Cas terminals at the ecu all that is good and still no signal reaching the tach or the ecu.
So I played arround with some alligator clips and found the following,

Cas | ECU
-------------------
Green| Blue
B/W | Green
Red | White
White| Red

and it worked... didn't sound right but it worked... it ran for about 5 seconds and stalled, it sounded like the timing was way off determined that the timming light was all over the place wasn't anywhere near the mark on the pulley about once every four rotations of the engine was it right on the mark.

From looking at the wiring diagram found here

http://www.k2rd.com/haltech/drawings/T01.pdf

I have the G+ going to a ground
and the G- going to a <1V source
and the NE+ going to Ground
and the NE- going to a <1V source

why does it work this way and yet not the other?
Any ideas?

HAILERS

I've no insight at all to that. If I were in a place where I had a CAS in hand, and the schematics, I would look inside the CAS and see which colored wires come off which of the two coils in the cas. Then I'd determine which of the two black coils in the cas is which.

Once I knew which coil was which, I could, using the schematics, tell if I had the right wires going to the right pins on the ECU plug.

But I don't have a cas in hand nor the schematics.

As a side note, the cas makes a signal. There is no voltage going TO the cas. The voltage comes From the cas to the ECU.

HAILERS

Looking online at the S5 wiring, page B-1a AND looking at this site http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/demystifying.html you can see the G signal is from the two tooth coil and the NE signal is from the lower 24 tooth coil.

Sooooooo, the white wire from the plug that attaches to the cas plug, is for the pin 3G at the ECU and is the G plus signal.

Then the Red wire from that same top coil with the two teeth, is the negative signal, and goes to pin 3H of the ECU AND is also spliced somewhere inside the harness to the Green wire for the NE, 24 tooth coil signal.

So your left with the Blue (L) wire that goes from the lower, 24 tooth NE coil and it goes to pin 3E of the ECU.

Those wire colors are from the HARNESS plug and I've no idea what the wire colors of the coil wires in the cas are because I"ve no cas with me.

MAybe someone else can look at their cas and match the coil wires with the harness attach plug colored wires.

The top coil with two teeth........................G signal, pins 3G and 3H

Bottom coil with 24 teeth............................NE signal, pins 3E and 3H

Green and Red both are tied together in the harness and go to 3H, as seen just above.

I think you have some of that already figured out, just some FYI stuff.

HAILERS

Maybe it matters NOT which side of the coils goes to the negative at 3H? As long as the other side of each coil is going to the positive 3G or 3E, depending whether your talking about the G or Ne signals.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

yeah that is what i was wondering why would it work on the opposite.. that is what I can't quite figure out... it is pretty odd... thanks you pretty much told me what I already knew, but I appreciate your trying to figure it out as well to see if I made a mistake.. anybody else have some insight.... this is frusterating... it took me an hour to install my haltech and get it running when I got a good one... and it has taken me two weeks... and still no good on OEM...

HAILERS

Does the engine run now? With the wires backwards? I mean run,as in driveable.

I put a meter on the Ne wires, the red and the white wires and spun it with my fingers. I get up to 3 plus vac in either direction I spin it. Just FYI.

Also a jpg of the guts of a series four. Red and White wires go to the Ne and the others to the G signal. Just FYI. And I marked the locating tab on the plug so you could tell how it mated with the other plug.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

it does but sounds wrong, and no it is not drivable.
Hey thanks Hailers... I appreciate it... but I still have a mystery as to why it works.. but not properly... I can't figure it out...
Does anybody have an S5 Car doesn't have to be turbo that can match up the colour cas wires to the colour engine harness wires for me?
I would appreciate it.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i somewhat remember there being a difference between series for the CAS wiring. somewhere i read that 2 wires switched colors downstream so this makes sense to me if the harness was changed or if the ECU was swapped.

my suggestion would be ohm testing the wires from the CAS connector to the ECU, if what i think is true you will find that 2 of the wires will not ohm out but ohm out to a different colored wire off the CAS.

HAILERS

Tell you what I did while you wait (gonna be a looooong wait) for someone to view their cas internal wiring.

I went to my cas and reversed the wires in the CAS plug for each coil. In other words swapped the plus with the negative of the G and Ne coils.

Gee whiz. That car started but I wouldn't even think about moving it down the driveway much less the street.

So I put the wires back to original conditon to see if I hurt the ECU. No. The engine started up and ran just like a champ.

So, I moved the wires one more time to make sure I didn't make a mistake the first time. Nope. Engine barely started and ran reeeeeeal bad at idle.

Put the wires back in the stock positons again and the engine ran like a champ again.

I suggest you move the wires once again.

The Green wire and the white/black are the G signal coming from the top coil.

The Red wire and the White wire are from the Ne coil at the bottom.

Someone with a S5 MIGHT take a look INSIDE their cas and tell us what the color of the wires are from the top coil and then the color of the wires from the bottom coil. Please.

HAILERS

Just in case it helps............If I look into the cas plug at the side with NO wires going into it (the mating side), and have the locking tab straight UP, on the left side I have the White/Black wire above the Green wire.

On the right side I have the White wire above the Red wire.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

thanks hailers, I appreciate it. I will try again and see what transpires.