Carb an FC S5 Vert?
#26
Currently Winning
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Sell your vert and buy a TII if you want a fast car. I don't see any point in modding an N/A vert because it's always gonna be slow. Spend $5000 on a MoTeC EMS and it'll still be slow.
#28
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Originally Posted by BlaCkPlaGUE
Carb is still cheaper for good performance. Its all about money. If I had unlimited funds then I'd be going standalone with independants.. but I don't, so at a time a few weeks ago, I was checking out everything there was to do with carbs, and the IDA webers seemed to be the most promising.
#29
I'm a boost creep...
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Originally Posted by Parastie
If you disabled the VDI and removed the 5th and 6th ports you could get nearly the same gain for far less money.
Originally Posted by BlaCkPlaGUE
Oh, I couldn't agree more about owning a standalone, I really couldn't. BUT, having a standalone cannot give you better volumetric effieiciency...
#30
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If i remember correctly when the VDI is "open" it's a shorter run then when it's "closed" (though I might have this backwards). Since they were saying that you need shorter runners ALL THE TIME then just keep the VDI to open all the time.
I do, however, realize that you will see substantial losses on a stock setup, especially at low RPM. If you go carb, you would have the same losses.
I do, however, realize that you will see substantial losses on a stock setup, especially at low RPM. If you go carb, you would have the same losses.
#31
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Originally Posted by SonicRaT
Parastie: You can easily use a dizzy, or you can piggyback it and use the stock ECU for spark, which is EXTREMELY easy.
BTW, on piggy backing it to the ECU is it better then just have a fuel controller piggyback like an SAFC or E-Manage?
#32
Jesus is the Messiah
Originally Posted by Gatlin
what about megasquirt? You can buy built units for $300.
My MS total price so far:
MegaSquirt: $140
TechedgeWBO2: ~$200 (Optional )
GM HEI unit: $23
GM Air Temp sensor: $8
Throwing the AFM/TPS/ACV/RatsNst/Etc in the trash: priceless
Before MegaSquirt I was getting 28MPG peak with 26MPG Highway normal and 22-24MPG average. I'm shooting for 32MPG highway with water injection.
#33
I'm a boost creep...
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Originally Posted by Parastie
If i remember correctly when the VDI is "open" it's a shorter run then when it's "closed" (though I might have this backwards). Since they were saying that you need shorter runners ALL THE TIME then just keep the VDI to open all the time.
Also, nobody said you need shorter runners "all the time" and if you did they would be wrong. Changing the manifold runner length simply changes the rpm point at which VE peaks. The shorter the length the higher the VE peak occurs, which increases peak power but at the expense of low-end power.
Last edited by NZConvertible; 03-23-05 at 05:15 AM.
#34
Originally Posted by '89Vert
Just like the title says, i'm thinkin about goin with a carb from racing beat. I searched and found some interesting debates on this from a couple of years back, but nothing really recently. Nor did i find many straight answers. Has anyone done it since then and liked it? i know the basic downsides are not being able to electronically tune it with a computer or hand held controller.
My downside to an EMS is that i'll never be able to afford to do it right, so this seems like a way to get some decent cheap power, especially considering i know a mechanic experienced with tuning carbs. Plus it kind of adds to the old school feel.
BTW my mods are: HKS Sport catback, Bonez intake system, New Bosch plugs and wires, BFG G-Force tires. Soon getting KYB AGX struts.
My downside to an EMS is that i'll never be able to afford to do it right, so this seems like a way to get some decent cheap power, especially considering i know a mechanic experienced with tuning carbs. Plus it kind of adds to the old school feel.
BTW my mods are: HKS Sport catback, Bonez intake system, New Bosch plugs and wires, BFG G-Force tires. Soon getting KYB AGX struts.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/questions-1st-gen-carb-gurus-407075/