Car wont turn off?
#1
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Car wont turn off?
ok i just put a new engine in my car. I had problems with the car getting it started but finally found out that it was flooded. Also i had the starter wiring all messed up. It shot sparks out of my negative terminal? I looked at the wiring harness in the engine bay and interior, everything seems ok. Wtf would cause this to happen. My car wont turn off without me pulling the egi fuse? Also all the controls in the car work like the hvac, power windows, etc. Is something seriously wrong or what. Anybody know whats going lol, please help thanks.
#3
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Interior fuse? You mean "room", or "meter"?
What all craps the bed when the fuse blows?
The only times I've ever heard about the engine not shutting off was due to the alt wiring being crossed at the back plug, or something like that. Conceivably a bad ignition switch could do it, but not likely.
Do you have any warnings lights on, specifically the alt warning light?
What all craps the bed when the fuse blows?
The only times I've ever heard about the engine not shutting off was due to the alt wiring being crossed at the back plug, or something like that. Conceivably a bad ignition switch could do it, but not likely.
Do you have any warnings lights on, specifically the alt warning light?
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yeah the room fuse sorry. When the fuse blows nothing really happenns its weird because the fuse will blow and everything will still work and the car wont shut off. On my alt i have 2 connections only one is connected is this correct? its a big clip that goes into it. I also have the power hooked up just in case you wondered. Think i should just get a new ignition or something? I looked at the wires running underneath the steering column and they all look ok. What the crap did i do wayne lol.
#5
I have the same problem with the car not turning off on occasion.
I have disconnected the ignition wiring under the steering column before (easy to do if you have a turbo timer in there) and the car keeps running. Try checking your main and circuit opening relays. That's what I am going to do next.
I have disconnected the ignition wiring under the steering column before (easy to do if you have a turbo timer in there) and the car keeps running. Try checking your main and circuit opening relays. That's what I am going to do next.
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it keeps running but that is normal right? I mean once the car is started and its not under load it doesnt need the battery, or is that wrong? Also all my fuse's seem fine except the main 80a fuse i wanted to replace but how do you take it out? I really think the ignition is fucked. I might just take it to the dealer and have them check everything on it.
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i dont know it has a mitsubishi logo on. Its definately not the stocker? I have one clip going into the back of it? Also the wire for the power is on there as well? Help.
#13
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Mitsubishi logos are on a lot of things on our cars, lol...
You have an '86, right? Tell me this, is there a "T"-shaped plug receptacle in the back of the alt body, and a "T"-shaped plug inserted there?
You have an '86, right? Tell me this, is there a "T"-shaped plug receptacle in the back of the alt body, and a "T"-shaped plug inserted there?
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just checked the back of my alt its fine. The other clip wont fit so i dont know wtf it goes to but it wont fit on the alternator. Anyway is there a way to test the ignition or wiring for that matter? I already visually inspected them and they seem ok. Wayne help me out lol
#16
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You have no idea where this alt came from? IF everything is still in an OEM position, you should have a black/white wire going into the upper pin of that plug, and a white/black going to the bottom. The white/black is your field excitation voltage, or the voltage that regulates the field strengths to produce the desired voltage output.
I sure hope I'm not getting that ***-backwards, lol...
Is your alternator warning light coming on at all in the car?
If it's an aftermarket alt, or an S5 alt, all bets are off
I sure hope I'm not getting that ***-backwards, lol...
Is your alternator warning light coming on at all in the car?
If it's an aftermarket alt, or an S5 alt, all bets are off
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*****The white/black is your field excitation voltage, or the voltage that regulates the field strengths to produce *****8
**** backwards. Tsk, tsk, tsk. Free downloads of the fsm are available online. (humor)
**** backwards. Tsk, tsk, tsk. Free downloads of the fsm are available online. (humor)
#18
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Now that I have access to the FSM, look at page 5-6, Hailers...
The L terminal (which is the bottom terminal on an S4 alt) is the white/black wire. Check out the little schismo there by following the black line (symbol for a wire....humor). Notice that a resistor drops the voltage before it gets to that little twisty wire loopy thing? That's a symbol for a coil. Since there is only that one coil, that is your field coil. Now, keep following the wire (the black line) to the voltage regulator section. That little animal takes a reference voltage (from the black/white) so that it can produce an acceptable output voltage, or, a charging current, if you will, by tweaking the field coil voltage ever so slightly. Nominally, a tweak of .1v produces an output increase/decrease of about 1 volt, or a 10:1 ratio, so it's kind of touchy, like some people we know...
Now turn the page to 5-9...bottom test...You see that 1-3v you're supposed to be getting? That's your field voltage. Notice what terminal you're reading this at? The L, or if you prefer, the white/black wire.
Without a field voltage to regulate the output (via the regulator), the alt would produce voltage (current output) relative to rpms...
Now, explain why you think I was wrong in my first post (which was done without the books in front of me, BTW)
The L terminal (which is the bottom terminal on an S4 alt) is the white/black wire. Check out the little schismo there by following the black line (symbol for a wire....humor). Notice that a resistor drops the voltage before it gets to that little twisty wire loopy thing? That's a symbol for a coil. Since there is only that one coil, that is your field coil. Now, keep following the wire (the black line) to the voltage regulator section. That little animal takes a reference voltage (from the black/white) so that it can produce an acceptable output voltage, or, a charging current, if you will, by tweaking the field coil voltage ever so slightly. Nominally, a tweak of .1v produces an output increase/decrease of about 1 volt, or a 10:1 ratio, so it's kind of touchy, like some people we know...
Now turn the page to 5-9...bottom test...You see that 1-3v you're supposed to be getting? That's your field voltage. Notice what terminal you're reading this at? The L, or if you prefer, the white/black wire.
Without a field voltage to regulate the output (via the regulator), the alt would produce voltage (current output) relative to rpms...
Now, explain why you think I was wrong in my first post (which was done without the books in front of me, BTW)
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well i just check again i only have one clip going into my alt. Its a black and white wire. There is another clip that doesnt do anything at all though. Any thoughts?
#20
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What are you calling a "clip"? Is that what most of us call a plug? Or is that what you're calling the spade terminal(s) built in to the plug receptacle on the back of the alt?
Man, I still don't know enough about that alt you have on the car to say for sure that you need that other wire (the white/black). If there are two terminals back there on the alt, and the plug receptacle is kinda "T" shaped, you need the other wire...
Is there a part number or a data plate anywhere on the alt?
Man, I still don't know enough about that alt you have on the car to say for sure that you need that other wire (the white/black). If there are two terminals back there on the alt, and the plug receptacle is kinda "T" shaped, you need the other wire...
Is there a part number or a data plate anywhere on the alt?
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well i dont have a digital camera sorry. Wayne the alt is a mitsu alt and the t shaped hole doesnt have a plug going to it. The only plug i that i have in the hole is a square hole. Do i need that t shaped hole? LOL i need a damn digi cam lol.
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You know what, I just went back and reread your first post, and we may be missing the big picture here- did you ever make sure the starter was OK after you arc welded the wiring? How did you hook it up wrong? You blew the main fuse, right? I wonder if you fried the dang regulator inside the alt?
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holy crap wayne i never even thought of that. The volt regulator wouldnt keep the car on though right? The starter was hooked up wrong by the ground, I hooked it up on the solenoid and it was touching the power wire. I blew my room fuse. The main fuse inside the engine bay is ok as far as i can tell? The volt regulator is inside the alternator right? Also would this be causing my interior problems as well? I really think its just a bad ground or maybe fucked up ignition but if anyone else could help that would be awesome. Wayne come to denver and help me lol later.