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car wont start (yes I searched)

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Old 01-17-05, 07:46 PM
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I live in an igloo

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car wont start (yes I searched) *Edit* IM A HAPPY CAMPER

Got my car all ready to go, plopped the battery in and put the key in the ignition. I turned it to on and none of the gauges did not light up, I turned it all the way and the starter cranks the engine, but nothing, no lights, no bouncing of the tach, nothing.

I searched and found none of these two problems together. Someone also said (searching) that its one of the fuses, they all test fine though. I have a feeling that I left a ground disconnected!

In totall I took off the whole intake setup down to the block, are there any wires that I should check for that ground to this setup?

thx


*EDIT*

Checked all the grounds and they were good, I guess I couldn't see the tach moving becuase when I turned on the lights it started to bounce. It started after about 5 more seconds of cranking! wooo, im da man.

Actually im not. the idle is at almost 2000rpm! So its obvious that there are some vac leaks that I forgot about when I did the emission removal.

ON a serious note, there is an issue. The exhaust manifold is leaking exhaust gas BAD, its almost pummeling out of the side onderneath the heat shield, no ******* idea what this is but im 90% sure its a crack or hole in the manifold itself. Is this common for the NA?

The shitty part is that I'll have to pull the whole intake ONCE AGAIN to see what the **** is happening down there. If it is a hole in the manifold, I'll just order a new collected header from racing beat. Do you guys have any other ideas of what it could be? Its not the downpipe cause theres no smoke coming from that side, its the side towards the front of the engine, smoke pummels from under the exhaust shield, and you can hear it too, as in its loud.
I just let the car sit for about 7 months and this problem was not there before, wonder what it could be.

thx for your help

Last edited by BlaCkPlaGUE; 01-17-05 at 07:58 PM. Reason: different things happened
Old 01-17-05, 08:16 PM
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seven months! how coul dyou do that. i feel deprived after the two months that mine has been off the road. it will be back soon though. anyway, back on subject. you should just buy the header anyhow. it's worth it in my opinion just for the sound. they sound wonderful, some people dislike it but it's such a beautiful sound. . once you pull the mani, you should get new header gaskets and the rb header. and get rid of the heat sheild, instead just get some nice heat wrap.
Dom
Old 01-17-05, 08:52 PM
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I live in an igloo

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I don't think the heat wrap is necessary is it for the RB header? Its so much smaller and further away (at least it looks that way) than the stock header.

But yea Im just gonna jack up the car and take it off that way, theres no way im taking off the intake again, the next time will be when i put the TII one on..


Is it comon for the stock exhaust manifold to crack? I havent seen any threads about that happenin....
Old 01-17-05, 09:04 PM
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When you removed the emissions did you remove the engine oil injectors ? If not did you create a leak or did you let oil leak down to the manifold ? When I removed my oil injectors I leaked oil down to the manifold and it smoked like crazy for two days till it all burned out be careful .
Old 01-17-05, 09:06 PM
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Sharp Claws

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Originally Posted by BlaCkPlaGUE
Is it comon for the stock exhaust manifold to crack? I havent seen any threads about that happenin....

yes, yes it is. for the most part the cracks are minor and unnoticeable but can affect idle quality and power, a large crack is rather rare though but it depends on how long it has been cracked for.
Old 01-17-05, 09:09 PM
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i think it is necessary. when i dynoed my car my first run was at 118 hp, when i had just driven in and the enigne bay was hot. after letting the car cool downa nd using a fan the power went up to 135 hp. i know the numbers are weak but it turns out i had cracked apex seal. . she's now rebuilt, just waiting for a few little things before i fire her up. Unless you ahve a heat sheild i think you should use header wrap, the header is directly under the intake manifold. . arn't we trying to have cold air going into our engines? haha i definetly recomend the rb header though. like i said before the sound . .it's amazing.
Dom
Old 01-17-05, 09:48 PM
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I live in an igloo

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Cool.

Im actually becoming very concerned, as I forgot to mention something. In the summer when I had the coolant leak from the TII housing coolant jackets, I got lazy and filled the rest of the coolant with water. So I watered down the antifreeze, but yes there was still some antifreeze in the system, it wasn't just all water.

I did however drain this coolant when I installed the OMP, from the lower radiator hose. a few weeks later I filled the rest of the coolant back up with a 50/50 antifreeze/distilled water mix, again the car was not working and it did not circulate through the system.

So im thinking that the half assed mixture that was in there when I filled it back in the summer with regular water froze and cracked something.. Although I see that highly unlikely becuase during the time it was sitting there with the bad mix it did not get very cold, and when it did get freezing cold I had already filled what I could with a proper mix.

Maybe It cracked the block, particularily around the header area? I hope not, chances are low becuase of how things were, but it is possible. Im gonna jack it up on thurs/friday on jackstands and take off the manifold and see what the **** is happening in there. I pray that its just a bad manifold and not a block issue... Time will tell.


-No it was not oil, it was pummeling out, there was force pushing the exhaust fumes out, burning out wouldn't do that.
-I also installed the braided lines for the oil injectors, and the injectors are all properly in there and tightened.
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