elmayimbe4eva27

iTrader: (2)

Hello, it's time I finally ask for help. I have an 88 vert w/ S5 TII swap; it's on a fresh rebuild so this is the first time i'm firing it up. I'm trying to start the car but it won't turn over. It cranks but that's it. I checked all my wiring and grounds, de-flooded the engine (just in case) still no start. Has spark, compression, but no fuel. There is fuel being pumped from the gas tank to the fuel rails but the injectors aren't spraying. I sprayed starting fluid in the throttle body, cranked the engine and fired right up but died right away (obviously). All 4 injectors are brand new RC and the ecu has an rtek 1.7 (installed by them). So since the injectors aren't spraying, what can i do? I know i can check for power for the injectors at the ecu but then what? Thanks!

satch

iTrader: (1)

Did you use a Japanese engine or American version?

walken

iTrader: (6)

if you're using the stock rats nest you can try swapping the fuel lines.

elmayimbe4eva27

iTrader: (2)

American ecu, all emissions removed. I checked the fuel lines, just in case I connected them wrong, but they're good...

Zerkster

iTrader: (22)

check for power at the injector clips

also did you make sure that your injector impedance matches the signal coming to them? Do you have a resistor box plugged into the harness behind the passenger headlight? If so then your injectors must be Low Impedance. If there is no box then your injectors must be High Impedance.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Well if you have power at the ecu and and the injectors then it's one of three things:

1- bad, completely stuck injectors
2- bad ECU
3- fuel lines are on wrong. If its a JDM engine, the fuel lines are reversed from the USDM ones.

satch

iTrader: (1)

With key to on both injector wires should have battery voltage. Have you checked this yet? Do you have an LED light such as the ones used to set the TPS (light method) and pulling codes? This light could be used to tell if the ECU is firing the proper signal to the injector.

elmayimbe4eva27

iTrader: (2)

Its running high imp injectors.
The engine is USDM.
I haven't don't so but will check for injector voltage at the ecu. If I did or didn't have voltage at the injector wires, I wouldn't have know what to do after and most likely came on the forum and asked for help anyways lol. And yes I do have a TPS tester, but do you mean using it like a noid light?

satch

iTrader: (1)

You can test for voltage on the "injector firing wire" at the ECU but if you get a proper reading there it might not be making its way to the actual injector do to wiring/connector issues. You should easily be able to check for voltage on the two wires at each of the secondary injectors but not the primary ones. And the light would double as a noid light.

elmayimbe4eva27

iTrader: (2)

Great, I'll try that out then. How is it possible that I can check the secondary inj. Voltage but not primary? Thanks!

satch

iTrader: (1)

The secondaries are located on top of the UIM while the primaries are located underneath the UIM. The only ECU wire related to the injectors are related to the firing wire. The other wire, constant voltage w/key to on, comes from the Main Relay (Black/Yellow wire).

elmayimbe4eva27

iTrader: (2)

Oh ok. Thanks again satch and to everyone else.

elmayimbe4eva27

iTrader: (2)

So i checked for voltage at the injector firing wire and i get 0V. I checked for voltage at the fuse the EGI INJ and COMP fuse block, and i get 3V on one blade and 12V on the other blade (same result for both fuses). I took a look at the main relay and saw no Black/Yellow wire at the connector, 4 wires on the harness and 5 blades on relay, unfortunately i did not take look at what color wires were connected to the relay harness. BUT i did find a stripped abandoned black/yellow wire (picture attached) lying around on the battery harness (battery cable, starter wires, relay harness, and the harness that goes through the drivers firewall). I tested the black/yellow wire and i get 12V. So it seems that my problem lies between the fuse block and the relay?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The Main relay should have two plus going to it. One has two wires (Black wire and a B/W wire), the other plug has four wires (B/W, B/Y, B/G and White/Blue).

EDIT: It's possible that the wire you found is supposed to be wired to a condenser. This wire would only have voltage w/key to on.

elmayimbe4eva27

iTrader: (2)

I'll double check the relay for 2 plugs (I only saw one). So then i won't worry much about that wire i found. However could you tell me how or why one side of the fuse is getting 12V and the other side 0V? It makes no sense. Sorry but it seems the previous owner had fun stripping wires and splicing cables.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The fuse bridges the side with voltage to the side without it.

If the B/Y wire is related to the condenser then make sure the wire end doesn't short out against anything metal.

The Starter Cut relay has four wires to it and one plug.

elmayimbe4eva27

iTrader: (2)

Jesus, electrical class isn't over till you work on a rotary lol. Thanks. I'll keep you updated.

elmayimbe4eva27

iTrader: (2)

Ok, so 2 months later it finally warms up in NYC and back to work on the RX. Just to cover some basic info, the car has spark, and has fuel. The engine is new, just rebuilt, but hasn't been turned on yet... The car cranks but does not turn over. Will start momentarily with starting fluid but then dies bout 3 seconds later, obviously. The ecu is getting 12v at the injector clips, at the fuse box 40A INJ and at the B/G wire at the relay. However the B/Y wire at the relay had 0v. I used a jumper wire at the B/G and B/Y wires at the main relay harness to bypass the faulty relay. I tested the jumper wire w/ key on and the jumper wire works. The fuel lines are not crossed. All grounds are connected, all harnesses are connected, its not flooded. The injectors are brand new high imp. I will next test them with a noid light and see what I come up with. But does anyone else have any insight? Thanks!

LunchboxCritter

iTrader: (9)

You have an S5 TII swap into an S4 car?
Which emissions harness are you running (s4,s5/na,tii)?
Which ECU are you running (s4 or s5-n370)?
Which sensors, injectors, afm, etc?

turboIIrotary

iTrader: (9)

Pull out your cas and turn your car on, now spin the little gear and you should be able to hear if the injectors are clicking or not.

elmayimbe4eva27

iTrader: (2)

To LunchboxCritter - yes its an S5 TII being swapped into an S4 vert. The harness has been re-wired to work on an S4. ECU is an S4 TII (can't remember the number). Sensors and AFM are also off an S4 TII. Injectors are 550cc primary 750cc secondary- RC injectors.

To turboIIrotary- I will try that out tomorrow.

Thanks!

HAILERS2

Fuel lines installed backwards at the engine. Swap the fuel lines and start the engine. IF it starts with starter fluid it's a lack of fuel. Lack of fuel in this case 'cause the lines are crossed at the engine interface.

(my fix for all swaps that don't run except on starter fluid).

To prove it.........find the return line at the engine interface. REmove said line. Jumper the fuel pump check connector. Key ON.............fuel should flow out the hard line on the engine then onto the floor. It SHOULD do this if the present install is correct. IF fuel does not flow and the pump is running..........you got the lines crossed up.

elmayimbe4eva27

iTrader: (2)

I checked and yes the fuel lines were crossed, BUT still no start. I can hear the clicking of the injectors when I took out the CAS and turned the little gear. What's next? Could it be the impedance on the injectors?