Car Wont Start
#1
Car Wont Start
O.K. I had the front 2 wheels of my car on a ramp because i was replacing my electric OMP(i have a 90 N/A vert). then when finished, i started it up and took it off the ramp and went for a short drive when my car shoots into limp mode. i take it back home and check the ecu codes and its the same as before i removed my original omp, soo i put it back on the ramp and swap the old one back in. i leave it on the ramp for a week and a half and the battery is dead. i purchase a new battery and try to start it up and now it wont start. i rolled it off the ramp and even tried to jumper it. it cranks like it is gonna turn over, but nothing. i ended up replacing the battery for a new one because it got weaker as each day i would try to start it up.
i can smell the fuel and i have sparks in my plugs. i never disconnected anything and dont know what else to do...can anyone shed some light on something i might be able to check or try? hope someone can help me out.
Fred
i can smell the fuel and i have sparks in my plugs. i never disconnected anything and dont know what else to do...can anyone shed some light on something i might be able to check or try? hope someone can help me out.
Fred
#2
If your smelling fuel then you may have flooded the engine. Something you may want to try is to go through the short start process to see if that works. In essence you want to disconnect power from your fuel pump and then turn the engine over to see if it will start. Hopefully it will. You can then kick the fuel pump back on and continue on.
Hope this helps some!
Hope this helps some!
#4
don't diconnect the fuel pump. just pull the EFI fuse in the strut tower fuse block. I usually pull then EGI fuse too. crank it over for about 5 secs.....rest for 10 and then another 5 secs. put the fuses back in and then crank her up.....should cure the problem. For some reason my car's tach wouldn't work after this, so i would turn the car off and then start it back up and the tach would work then. Weird!
#5
whoa o.k. i gotta pull out the FSM and find out where exactly this fuse is. i dont wanna do any damage to the car...afterall it was in perfect condition before i screwed with her the first time. *sigh*
Fred
Fred
#6
RX7.com tries to explain... their pics are scrambled but it's fairly easy to decipher them. Check it out http://www.rx7.com/tech/unflood-fc.html hopefully that'll help.
#7
a word of caution to you.. pulling the fuses works fine.. and my tach doesnt work sometimes either afterward.. DO NOT turn the car right back off... i made that mistake once and had to deflood all over again.. let the car run a bit...
I usually just pull the egi fuse.
If you're standing infront of the nose of the car looking at the motor the fuse box is on the right side by the strut bar.. pop the top of the box off.. i believe its a 40 amp fuse. (mines green)
its easy to find and the top of the back is well marked..
I usually just pull the egi fuse.
If you're standing infront of the nose of the car looking at the motor the fuse box is on the right side by the strut bar.. pop the top of the box off.. i believe its a 40 amp fuse. (mines green)
its easy to find and the top of the back is well marked..
Trending Topics
#8
Charge your battery. Change your oil. Change your spark plugs. Buy some ether(starting fluid).
Also, disconnecting the CAS(pseudo distributor) will kill the fuel injectors and allows you to turn engine over with the spark plugs removed. All the excess fuel will shoot out of the spark plug holes. No risk of fire because the fuel will evaporate quickly and there is no spark because of the disconnected CAS connection.
Did you use a new MOP or used one? Sometimes a bad MOP is actually a fried ECU. What codes are you getting?
Are your oil injectors/lines clogged? Is there excessive resistance/corrosion in the ECU/engine electrical wiring harnesses?
When testing OMP, just swap connection from old to new. Don't install it without testing it. You'll need to run a little premix since a dangling OMP will not inject oil. If you get an OMP code, don't use it. Try another one. Also, find someone who can loan you a 89-91 NA ecu for testing purposes.
Also, disconnecting the CAS(pseudo distributor) will kill the fuel injectors and allows you to turn engine over with the spark plugs removed. All the excess fuel will shoot out of the spark plug holes. No risk of fire because the fuel will evaporate quickly and there is no spark because of the disconnected CAS connection.
Did you use a new MOP or used one? Sometimes a bad MOP is actually a fried ECU. What codes are you getting?
Are your oil injectors/lines clogged? Is there excessive resistance/corrosion in the ECU/engine electrical wiring harnesses?
When testing OMP, just swap connection from old to new. Don't install it without testing it. You'll need to run a little premix since a dangling OMP will not inject oil. If you get an OMP code, don't use it. Try another one. Also, find someone who can loan you a 89-91 NA ecu for testing purposes.
#11
someguy told me take the trailing plugs out and crank the engine and see if any stuff ghushes out if so just get a rag and crank it till no more stuff comes out then replace the spark plugs and if the plugs are wet get new ones ill be alot better for ur car
#12
i've seen cars not run after the electric omp was removed it turned on and started but was in limp mode and wouldnt rev past 2k just plugged the omp back in but kept the it blocked off. if you took your fuel injectors out and are smelling fuel you might have had a bad injector oring that might be spraying fuel into your engine bay. saw it happen on a 90 tII have someone stand around the passenger side of the car and listen for a gushing sound or fuel spraying
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post