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Car wont rev up ? Was reving fine but the problem comes and goes . Why ?

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Old 07-18-05, 04:30 PM
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Car wont rev up ? Was reving fine but the problem comes and goes . Why ?

ok my car is rebuilt etc and only 5 days or so its run for

the problem is ongoing it comes and goes i dont know what the heck is wrong

it will idle and everything , the idle will not really stay in one place tho, and it has to stay relatively high for it to stay idling (1000-1500rpm). The problem will sometimes go away and willl be fine but it will come right back. The car will feel like its getting no gas and all air , i dont know what the problem is

it basically will hit a wall at 1500-2000 rpms or whatever youre lucky for it to go up to then it will bog back down, and just stay idling

i dont know what the problem is , i tried removing the 02 sensor and nothing happned

i have everything blocked off and removed, i dont know what the problem would be, it drove fine for me before for about 15 mins and then sure enough the problem comes right back out of the blue, whats goin on ?

edit - i also had it reving ok then took it for a short drive to test , and the problem came back in like 10 secs of driving, got up to like 4000rpms or whatever it was lucky to get to then it basically hit a wall (like fuel cut) and bogged down and wouldnt let me give it any gas, then all of a sudden it will give it gas again out of nowhere. i have no idea what the problem is. Although i did get it up to 4000 , sometimes it wont even rev past 2k and just will run like crap when i press the gas, like its getting no gas and all air like i said earlier

Last edited by wthdidusay82; 07-18-05 at 04:37 PM.
Old 07-18-05, 05:14 PM
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Sounds like the TPS.

Did you stab the CAS or did Kevin when he built the motor? If you stabbed the CAS did you do it properly or just stick it in there not knowing that it mattered?
Old 07-18-05, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by dDuB
Sounds like the TPS.

Did you stab the CAS or did Kevin when he built the motor? If you stabbed the CAS did you do it properly or just stick it in there not knowing that it mattered?
i did it by how the book said to do it, set the timing with the pulley and then line up the dot on the outside edge of the cas to the line on the cas and then install it in there lined up flush without moving the bottom gears lineup on the cas

if it was the tps , the car would be completely undriveable ? i mean it drove before but then out of nowhere it starts having the problem again then it goes away and comes back...

now im having another problem, the car wont even start but im really gettin a headache workin on this thing as it seems im getting now here lately besides into more of a mess
Old 07-18-05, 06:05 PM
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That's correct, did you verifty the timing after?

Still sounds like TPS, or TPS in conjunction with a vac leak.

What about your fuel inectors, have they been cleaned or tested recently? Are they old? Any idea about them? Fuel pump getting proper voltage?
Old 07-18-05, 06:09 PM
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Unhappy

Originally Posted by dDuB
That's correct, did you verifty the timing after?

Still sounds like TPS, or TPS in conjunction with a vac leak.

What about your fuel inectors, have they been cleaned or tested recently? Are they old? Any idea about them? Fuel pump getting proper voltage?

fuel injectors were cleaned and tested by cruzin performance, not sure about tps or vacuum leak..

would the tps cause it to be completely undrivable ? when i mean that i say it wont even go if you hit the gas, anytime u hit the gas its like its fuel cutting and abruptly slows down then will abruptly gas it and go again and make the car/engine shift alot

i dont know how to verify the timing, even if i did i have no timing light

im not sure about fuel pump voltage either
Old 07-18-05, 06:22 PM
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Well simply put, the TPS (throttle position sensor) tells the ECU the position of the throttle. If it isn't working correctly the ECU doesn't know what's going on and it will drive very oddly depending on the degree to which the TPS is messed up. Get a multi-meter and test the ohms and voltages @ the TPS and at the ECU and make sure it's reading correctly (check haynes or FSM for specifications).

Try unplugging it and driving around see if it does any better. Though keep in mind even if it does better with the TPS unplugged, it will still drive pretty screwed up.
Old 07-18-05, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by dDuB
Well simply put, the TPS (throttle position sensor) tells the ECU the position of the throttle. If it isn't working correctly the ECU doesn't know what's going on and it will drive very oddly depending on the degree to which the TPS is messed up. Get a multi-meter and test the ohms and voltages @ the TPS and at the ECU and make sure it's reading correctly (check haynes or FSM for specifications).

Try unplugging it and driving around see if it does any better. Though keep in mind even if it does better with the TPS unplugged, it will still drive pretty screwed up.
would tps cause my car not to start up ? im having problems getting it started and wondering if these two problems could be related
Old 07-18-05, 06:35 PM
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No I'd think it'd still start, I've had plenty of TPS problems before and it still started fine, it just drove and idled shitty.
Old 07-18-05, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by dDuB
No I'd think it'd still start, I've had plenty of TPS problems before and it still started fine, it just drove and idled shitty.
well the response of the throttle was like it was giving it no gas it isnt even driveable when it acts the way it does , does the tps cause the car to be completely undriveable if it is bad or at least cause a condition where you cant rev the car at all and feels like its always hitting a wall when u push the gas

when i press the gas all i can hear is the deep tone of the intake trying to suck in more air that it isnt using (since its not reving up) not to mention it sounds pretty crappy
Old 07-18-05, 06:56 PM
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Depends on how bad the TPS really is and it's hard to tell how exactly your car is driving without being there.

Have you set the TPS at all before? So that its in the correct OHM range? Get a multi-meter on it and start checking things.
Old 07-18-05, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by dDuB
Depends on how bad the TPS really is and it's hard to tell how exactly your car is driving without being there.

Have you set the TPS at all before? So that its in the correct OHM range? Get a multi-meter on it and start checking things.
No i havent said set it...and i really dont know how to be honest...havent checked the ohms on it either...will prolly do that soon tho, currently working on getting the car started at least .. battery is charging now

as far as how the car drives, when its having this problem it wont even go if u hit the gas it will drive like crap and you have to drive it at like 1500 rpms or around there or it wont drive at all, and even when it is driving its not driving good its barely moving and u have to feather the gas or it will just be bogging and driving worse (like its hitting fuel cut in a way)
Old 07-18-05, 07:41 PM
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ok i dc the tps and it did the same thing car was ok for like 10 secs or whatever , drove it and it would get up to like 4-4500 rpm and then it would stutter like it wasnt getting any fuel or whatever but with it off it had the same problem it had with it on nothing really changed other than the fact that it ran ok for about 30 secs then started running like total crap
Old 07-18-05, 09:42 PM
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is it an s5?? maybe your running in limp mode or somthing, look up how to check codes or somthing.
Old 07-18-05, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by kompressorlogic
is it an s5?? maybe your running in limp mode or somthing, look up how to check codes or somthing.

its an s4, and it does seem like it is running in limp mode or something because it IS NOT driveable
Old 07-18-05, 11:34 PM
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S4 doesn't have limp mode, only s5.
Old 07-18-05, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by dDuB
S4 doesn't have limp mode, only s5.
ok so i took the tps off earlier and it didnt make things any better, it seemed like it did at first but it didnt , it was letting me gas it but then it would be stuttering sometimes like its cutting the fuel and letting it back on abruptly, so its defintely not driveable

then about not even a minute later after taking off the tps it was its at its worst it wont even drive at all really unless i drive it bogging it at 1000rpms , anythin more than that and it is bucking/bogging and drivinglike crap so i need to get this problem resolved

this is basically what happens each time, it will seem ok at first then it will start cutting my gas in the middle of while im in gear at whatever 2-4.5k (4.5 is the highest ive gone just a few times),

but it will basically get worse and worse progressively in a matter of minutes until it is so bad u cant even drive it unless u are at 1000 rpms bogging it to the max , otherwise the car is jumping back and forth not wanting to go anywhere but bog/buck forward

i also have a clutch chatter problem that im not sure is normal either but thats another story along with my leaky oil filter housing

Last edited by wthdidusay82; 07-18-05 at 11:45 PM.
Old 07-18-05, 11:44 PM
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what about the air/fuel ratio
Old 07-18-05, 11:49 PM
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i donno , it seems like its giving it way too much of something

im not a professional tuner but it seems like its gettin all air and no gas or something


would a vacuum leak do this ? altough it is fine at first but comes around within seconds to minutes, i dont know if a vacuum leak could cause a problem that comes on and off unless it takes a while for it to start making the leak after i start it up, but i kind of doubt i have a vacuum leak but i could be wrong

i was told i could get some carb cleaner and spray it on there and see if it bogs down or idles up and that will tell me if i have a vac leak or not
Old 07-18-05, 11:57 PM
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See if the vacuum lines are conected good. Sometimes if one is lose it messes everything up.

I not sure about carb/fuel cleaners. I dont think they do that much good.
Old 07-19-05, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by fc_drifter_2003
See if the vacuum lines are conected good. Sometimes if one is lose it messes everything up.

I not sure about carb/fuel cleaners. I dont think they do that much good.

i donno what it could be , i did block off alot of stuff since i took all the emissions out and the airpump. This also includes my bac and acv, 5/6 ports and actuators, vaccum rack egr etc

the car only has a total of 4 vacuum lines, they all seem like they are working proper and arent leaking but i could be wrong, maybe a bypass cap is doing it ? i kind of doubt it but i dont know what the problem is

i may try and using a spare tps i have and see if that does anything but i dont know if it will, i was trying to figure out how to test the tps with an ohmeter but i cant find anything in my haynes manual

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Old 07-19-05, 12:08 AM
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Another source of your problem could be your fuel system(lines, filter, pump, injectors...).
Old 07-19-05, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by fc_drifter_2003
Another source of your problem could be your fuel system(lines, filter, pump, injectors...).
i have no idea what the problem could be all i know is that it seems ok at first then it comes back right awy, i rerouted my fuel line since i took off the emissions rack

im pretty sure its like this , from the pump to the primary fuel rail, from the primary fuel rail to 2ndary fuel rail, from 2ndary fuel rail/fuel pressure regulator to return line

all my injectors were cleaned and tested so im sure its not those, maybe my fuel pump isnt giving proper fuel pressure ? i dont know
Old 07-19-05, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by wtfdidusay82
i donno what it could be , i did block off alot of stuff since i took all the emissions out and the airpump. This also includes my bac and acv and vaccum rack egr etc
Well some of that you need to run your car, however I'm not an expert.
I go to a Mazda dealer and see what they say, however don't let them rip you off.
Old 07-19-05, 12:17 AM
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It could be that it's too rich.
Old 07-19-05, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by fc_drifter_2003
Well some of that you need to run your car, however I'm not an expert.
I go to a Mazda dealer and see what they say, however don't let them rip you off.
you dont need to run any of it, car will run without having the emissions... now if my problem is related to taking that stuff out ? i highly doubt it but its possible, i would think it would mess up your idle more than it would anything else


if it were running really rich i think it would still run , besides it runs very rich in stock form anyways

i just hope this problem is nothing serious as i have no clue what it could be, i wouldnt think it is my coils or ignition or anything like that

oh and mazda is the last place id want to take my car , theyll tell me i need a bunch of crap that i dont need just so they can make a bunch of money , and im sure people on here probably know just as much or more than most people at mazda know about these cars,

as the demand for mechanics on rotary engine is not exactly that high these days since not many people have them other than the rx8 but the setup on that is probably much different than an 87 compared to a 2000 model

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