In car turbo removal tips
#1
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In car turbo removal tips
ha the only time i have ever taken turbos off rx7s was when the motor was already out. what is the best way to take it off with the engine still in. Im hoping it would not cause me to remove the LIM which would require me to order the 2 water orings.
#6
spending too much money..
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i've done this about 5 times in the past couple of months and found the easiest way if you have no emissions etc blocking you is to take off the manifold and turbo as one unit however if you do have all that stuff then of course you are going to have to undo the turbo and then the manifold and probably pulling it up through the top would be easiest however I have heard of people dropping to the bottom as well. Good luck! It's a pain in the ***
#7
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Unfortunately I've done it a bunch of times recently too. Here's my how to:
1. Drain and remove rad. Remove lower rad hose @ engine because it will block removal later on. I like to remove the upper hose at the rad and bend back in half against the fan or strutbar. Remove rad shroud.
2. Remove airpump, TID. Losen the solid heater line, otherwise it will be in your way. Same with the ACV valve hose that goes to the front of the car. If you were planning on doing it, now is a great time to ditch the ACV.
3. Remove DP and twin scroll actuator. I'm able to losen the nuts on the DP and just push the entire exhaust off the studs on the turbo. (there's a certain amount of mobility in the rubber exhaust hangers)
4. Remove the oil and coolant lines. Remove the metal pipe that goes to the IC.
5. Remove nuts on exhaust manifold to engine.
6. Pull turbo and attached manifold out and pull towards the front of the car.
The first time you do this it probably will not be fun.
1. Drain and remove rad. Remove lower rad hose @ engine because it will block removal later on. I like to remove the upper hose at the rad and bend back in half against the fan or strutbar. Remove rad shroud.
2. Remove airpump, TID. Losen the solid heater line, otherwise it will be in your way. Same with the ACV valve hose that goes to the front of the car. If you were planning on doing it, now is a great time to ditch the ACV.
3. Remove DP and twin scroll actuator. I'm able to losen the nuts on the DP and just push the entire exhaust off the studs on the turbo. (there's a certain amount of mobility in the rubber exhaust hangers)
4. Remove the oil and coolant lines. Remove the metal pipe that goes to the IC.
5. Remove nuts on exhaust manifold to engine.
6. Pull turbo and attached manifold out and pull towards the front of the car.
The first time you do this it probably will not be fun.
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#9
RX-7 Alumni
Originally Posted by Snrub
Unfortunately I've done it a bunch of times recently too. Here's my how to:
1. Drain and remove rad. Remove lower rad hose @ engine because it will block removal later on. I like to remove the upper hose at the rad and bend back in half against the fan or strutbar. Remove rad shroud.
2. Remove airpump, TID. Losen the solid heater line, otherwise it will be in your way. Same with the ACV valve hose that goes to the front of the car. If you were planning on doing it, now is a great time to ditch the ACV.
3. Remove DP and twin scroll actuator. I'm able to losen the nuts on the DP and just push the entire exhaust off the studs on the turbo. (there's a certain amount of mobility in the rubber exhaust hangers)
4. Remove the oil and coolant lines. Remove the metal pipe that goes to the IC.
5. Remove nuts on exhaust manifold to engine.
6. Pull turbo and attached manifold out and pull towards the front of the car.
The first time you do this it probably will not be fun.
1. Drain and remove rad. Remove lower rad hose @ engine because it will block removal later on. I like to remove the upper hose at the rad and bend back in half against the fan or strutbar. Remove rad shroud.
2. Remove airpump, TID. Losen the solid heater line, otherwise it will be in your way. Same with the ACV valve hose that goes to the front of the car. If you were planning on doing it, now is a great time to ditch the ACV.
3. Remove DP and twin scroll actuator. I'm able to losen the nuts on the DP and just push the entire exhaust off the studs on the turbo. (there's a certain amount of mobility in the rubber exhaust hangers)
4. Remove the oil and coolant lines. Remove the metal pipe that goes to the IC.
5. Remove nuts on exhaust manifold to engine.
6. Pull turbo and attached manifold out and pull towards the front of the car.
The first time you do this it probably will not be fun.
[KNOCKS_ON_WOOD]Hope I never have to do that.[/KNOCKS_ON_WOOD]
#12
RX-7 Alumni
Originally Posted by hondahater
you did a hole engine swap and your warried about taking out the turbo, lol, sounds funny to me
Definitely a full weekend project.
#13
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simple things are harder for me now.. im in the military on base.. and i dont have a GOOD garage like at home soo. i consider all my moves before i make them. so im trying to figure to do i need to go to the stupid hobby shop . or can i do it in the parking lot. i carry one floor jack stand along, with a timing light, full tool set. 54mm socket. deadblow hammer...etc....if it cant be done with my tools then its probably not repairable. if i get in a wreck im getting knocked-da-FU$#-out from flying tools.
#15
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
I had no problem removing the turbo while leaving the manifold in place
Granted, I don't have stock exhaust/DP, but my technique just involves a two foot long 3/8" extension, and a swivel socket. Clear everything out of the way (e.g. airpump, intake), drop the DP, disconnect all the lines to/from the turbo, and unbolt the turbo from the manifold. Pull the turbo up and out.
I've only done it twice with the engine the car, but even still it took less than 2 hours to get the turbo out, and to reinstall it.
#16
I'm a boost creep...
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Originally Posted by a7r
Clear everything out of the way (e.g. airpump, intake), drop the DP, disconnect all the lines to/from the turbo, and unbolt the turbo from the manifold. Pull the turbo up and out.
#18
Haven't we ALL heard this
lol....man...the passenger would take on a new roll...in addition to being a cup holder...they have to pull a hot turbo in a running car!
If you have ABS and your ACV in place it is going to suck really hard getting the turbo out. When I removed my ACV it made things soooo much easier to pull the turbo.
James
If you have ABS and your ACV in place it is going to suck really hard getting the turbo out. When I removed my ACV it made things soooo much easier to pull the turbo.
James
#19
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I can't remember the reason at the moment, but I wasn't able to remove the turbo from the manifold. Perhaps it was because with the swivel socket I wasn't able to break the nut free? I know I tried it the first time and have repeatedly done it the way I described since.
Part of the reason it was such a PITA first time was because I ended up having a nut on the DP seize to the stud and the same on one of the engine manifold studs. It sucks when the only place you know will have the stuff isn't open on the weekend and you need to get it running so you have to run around everywhere. BTW: Parts Source has a nearly perfect exhaust stud for the exhaust manifold to attach to.
In terms of a good garage, I get to do it outside in the Canadian winter with a gravel/dirt driveway. Yeah...
Part of the reason it was such a PITA first time was because I ended up having a nut on the DP seize to the stud and the same on one of the engine manifold studs. It sucks when the only place you know will have the stuff isn't open on the weekend and you need to get it running so you have to run around everywhere. BTW: Parts Source has a nearly perfect exhaust stud for the exhaust manifold to attach to.
In terms of a good garage, I get to do it outside in the Canadian winter with a gravel/dirt driveway. Yeah...
#20
Nurse I need 1300cc's NOW
i was able to remove the turbo from the manifold with no real problems. and basic tools. With out removing the LIM or UIM. I know i had the Air pump out of the way for sure. then i just slowly worked at it .. took me a few hours but i got it out from the top and i think the only thing besides the air pump i took out of the car was the ACV, i think that had alot to do with it . oh wait .. the TMIC(given) the whole air box and piping(given) but off the top of my head this was all i can remember taking out .. it was easier than i thought. getting the DP off i think was the hardest cuz there was a bolt that you couldnt get to very well. but what a pair of mechanix gloves, a set of open end/ box wrenches and a socket set with a swivel and extensions can do .
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