Car takes forever to start, idles rough, backfires, when warm runs fine.
#1
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My Bick is Digger
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From: Raleigh, NC
Car takes forever to start, idles rough, backfires, when warm runs fine.
Ok guys, again I am posting about all of this to see if I can get a fix.
I am going to leave out a bunch of other possible useless info. Anyhow I was working on car to change water pump and it hasnt been the same since.
The longer the car sits and the colder it is the harder it is to start it. I have NO FLOODING issues at all, it just takes about 10-15 seconds of cranking in the morning and when it starts unless I hold the pedal down it will die. I have to hold the pedal down, it will stutter and backfire sometimes during the cranking or between cranking attempts. Once I can get it to hold a steady idle by itself it is totally fine and once warm it runs okay.
The car is an s5 vert with 150k miles on it.
I had recently changed the water pump and since it has been doing all of this except for a few times before it had died on me very smoothly for no apparent reason while in second.
Could this be fuel pump or filter? If so why would it be worse when the car is cold? Could it be my injectors and is it possible it is a spark issue?
BTW while working on the car the intake elbow came off and I just put it back on no probs. I wouldnt think that would be related.
I am going to leave out a bunch of other possible useless info. Anyhow I was working on car to change water pump and it hasnt been the same since.
The longer the car sits and the colder it is the harder it is to start it. I have NO FLOODING issues at all, it just takes about 10-15 seconds of cranking in the morning and when it starts unless I hold the pedal down it will die. I have to hold the pedal down, it will stutter and backfire sometimes during the cranking or between cranking attempts. Once I can get it to hold a steady idle by itself it is totally fine and once warm it runs okay.
The car is an s5 vert with 150k miles on it.
I had recently changed the water pump and since it has been doing all of this except for a few times before it had died on me very smoothly for no apparent reason while in second.
Could this be fuel pump or filter? If so why would it be worse when the car is cold? Could it be my injectors and is it possible it is a spark issue?
BTW while working on the car the intake elbow came off and I just put it back on no probs. I wouldnt think that would be related.
#3
I have the same problem but someone told me it was the iac? I also need help I have to crank like two times and then idle by foot on the gas and like 15 minutes later its fine and fine all day just in the morning its hell can I get help also?
#4
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My Bick is Digger
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From: Raleigh, NC
yeah same damn thing. What is the IAC? I am thinking about taking my broke *** to rebuilding my spare car because if my car breaks I am screwed. I just got a stable job and catching up to life and bills. I can't handle something threatening that. I did have a problem with the thermosensor in the rear. I forgot to plug it up the first time and pulled everything apart to plug it back up again. Would that cause a problem if I did something to it?
#5
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My Bick is Digger
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From: Raleigh, NC
I also ran the car warm a few times before I changed the pump and testing out a peice of **** radiator that didnt work. It seemed every time I added coolant or did something to the car it would freak out and run like **** when I was fixing it all. Could I have damaged that sensor?
#6
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Ok..here is MY take on it..you replaced the water Pump..the Sender is either NOT plugged in or Broke..If that sender is NOT plugged in the ECU will not receive a signal...even when the car IS warm,the ECU still SEES the engine as COLD(due to no signal from the Sender).Now If the car has been Driven,it Has most likely been suckin a little More Fuel..That stays in the engine aftershut-off,NOT an excessive amount,but just enough to make it Wonky....therefore,my good man..I think it is that Sender,or the wires to it...and by the way..holding the gas Pedal Down on an S5 is a method of Cutting fuel,..so it is like a Deflood procedure..(if I am not Right,at least it looks good..in TYPE!)..good luck..and Post with results!
#7
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My Bick is Digger
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From: Raleigh, NC
If you floor it while cranking it does the deflood. I only hold the pedal down after it catches and runs. Otherwise it will immediately die. I'll be anything I screwed that sensor up, or the plug some how. I will replace it and see how it works. Anyway to do that without removing the whole damned water pump all over again?
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#8
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My Bick is Digger
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From: Raleigh, NC
k guys after some searching it seems like it is the thermosensor. That would explain why it is doing this after changing the water pump. I put it back on there nice and secure or so I thought. I am going to change the whole sensor, rotate and balance my tires and wheels, turn my front disks, and change the fuel filter this weekend. I also need a wiper blade.
#9
Ok..here is MY take on it..you replaced the water Pump..the Sender is either NOT plugged in or Broke..If that sender is NOT plugged in the ECU will not receive a signal...even when the car IS warm,the ECU still SEES the engine as COLD(due to no signal from the Sender).Now If the car has been Driven,it Has most likely been suckin a little More Fuel..That stays in the engine aftershut-off,NOT an excessive amount,but just enough to make it Wonky....therefore,my good man..I think it is that Sender,or the wires to it...and by the way..holding the gas Pedal Down on an S5 is a method of Cutting fuel,..so it is like a Deflood procedure..(if I am not Right,at least it looks good..in TYPE!)..good luck..and Post with results!
styx69 if the water thermosensor is not plugged than the ECU will assume the engine is fully warmed up (169 F, something like that) and run really lean when it should be running rich for cold start ups. yea just make sure its tight in there and GL
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