puck1263

88 NA. I just got done replacing my oil pump (pull front cover). I double labeled everything and am pretty sure I hooked everything back up right. To get it to start, I have to turn the key to "on", then off a few times (starts fuel pump for a few secs to get fuel up to engine). Then it will start and immediately dies and makes no difference if I push pedal. Seems as if nothing is saying "I need more fuel." Any suggestions where I should look first? I have another rx to compare with and I can't see a difference anywhere. I didn't touch the fuel system, but I did have to remove the air pump, alt, etc.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

AFM is not plugged in or the plug is loose.

puck1263

afm (air flow meter under air filter housing) is plugged in.

scathcart

large vacuum leak. Cheak all hoses.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Is the whole air intake system hooked up? You need to have the air tube running fron the AFM to the Throttle Body hooked up, or the flapper in the AFM wont open up, and the fuel pump will shut off..

rat

puck1263

re: jrat the main air intake between the throttle body and air cleaner is hooked up, but how does the car know whether it is or isn't?

Felix Wankel

The air is accounted for at the air flow meter, so any air coming in downstream of it isn't, causing it to start and immediately stall if the volume is great enough.

Edit: Have you checked the timing? I would double check the CAS install.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

The fuel pump runs in two modes:

the first is when you turn the key to start. This activates the fuel pump.

The second is when you return the key to "run". If the AFM (the silver box under the air cleaner) isnt sending a signal that air is being pulled through it, the fuel pump will shut back off. Its a safety feature. I hear that there is a way to disable it, but I dont recommend that.

rat

*edit* There is one other way to get your pump to run, jumper the fuel pump connector.

puck1263

I connected the fuel pump jumper (yellow clip) to itself and the fuel pump turned on. Still didn't seem to want to start...but my battery is now dead, so I'll have to charge it tomorrow and try again. Any other suggestions? I checked the big AFM connector, seems to be snug.

puck1263

oh yeah, I can't check the timing because I can't get it started!!!! but I've timed it before and the CAS is in as close to where I remember.

apreludem

i had the same problem...j rat helped me with mine...turns out it was the afm

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

If the CAS is somewhere close, your car SHOULD start. It wont run very well, but it should start.

I wonder if you managed to flood it.....Hmm...

puck1263

no way it is flooding...tried the egi fuse trick...not only that, i have to play with the on/off key ignition to get fuel...seems like once fuel to start is gone, car off. Is there some AFM trick?? I searched for one.

bcty

there is a hose on the back of the black intake tube going to the TB if this is unplugged this is what it will do... sounds to me you do have a intake leak just where...

Foster

can't it also be fouled plugs? has the car been sitting for awhile? mine was doing the same thing.. turned out she just wanted to be run more.. i boosted her and took her for a hour drive now she starts(and idels) everytime..

puck1263

doubt it is fouled plugs

attomica

Ok, this sounds like I'm joking or something, but I'm not. My brother has a '90 N/A and was suffering the same problem. After he checked everything he could and found nothing amiss, he shelled out some good cash for some professional diagnostic work. Turns out it was, of all things, the reverse switch. I thought all that did was illuminate the back-up lights, but apparently it's responsible for more than just that. Honestly, I'm not BS'ing here. Just trying to help.

Piranha

have a friend shoot the leads with a timing gun while you crank it over. I've done that before and it worked fine.

puck1263

ok, battery now charged..... I tried to start it while the fuel pump was jumpered...same deal, starts then quits. I double checked connection at AFM, it is snug and secure....HELP!

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

TPS plugged in?
Both ignition coils plugged in?
AFM plugged in (is the plug damaged? It's happened before)?
Big vacuum leak (intake duct, BAC connection, etc.)?
Injector plugs tight?
Swap spark plugs.

It is almost certainly one of those things. You MUST check and verify everything manually. Never assume.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Also the CAS. Make sure it is properly plugged in and is in the same position it was when you removed it (you did mark it, right?).

selanne8

do you get a wierd whizzing noise as the engine's briefly running? my car did that when we put a new engine in and it turned out to be a wire clamp that got sandwiched on the intake. the whizzing noise was the air rushing at the leak.

john

puck1263

The water thermo sensor is a part of the emissions system.......do I have to have coolant in the car for it to start?? I have a little, but I have a waterpump leak I have to address, but in the mean time I'd just like ot get it started to verify that what I fixed is fixed.

puck1263

oh yeah, if I swap plugs will any plugs do, or do I have to have special Mazda T and L plugs?

puck1263

Starts now........the position of the crank angle sensor, with respect to the "timing bolt" (external) was correct, however when I reinserted it, I didn't put it back to neutral position.(line the hole up with the marker). Thanks to everyone for help!.