Ok guys I need to get this car running so if anyone has suggestions please post them. I'm running a S5 B-Type REDOM RE-Amemiya stock N374 ecu and stock jspec S5 TII harness in my TII with no emmissions. Basically all I have plugged in is CAS, TPS, water temp, air temp, Afm, injectors, boost sensor, and thats all i believe off the ecu harness. I am using a S4 TII boost sensor, so if thats a problem somebody let me know. Heres what happens: I can get it started. It idles nice and smooth at 850rpm's for about 8 seconds, then sputters and dies. I cant narrow it down to the problem. I used the afm before i went haltech and it worked fine, so i wouldnt think it would be bad, and the boost sensor is S4, but it plugs in and i figured it has the same guts as the S5 one. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

ok, I figured out that i had the pressure sensor plugged into the wrong clip, plugged that into the right one, and made sure my ecu was bolted down onto the bracket, since it was just laying there before. double checked connections, and checked for vaccume leaks. I can get it to start if i have someone hold the plunger in on the afm, and I can keep it running as long as i want with a nice idle, as long as i hold the plunger in. I can rev it up, but when it hits 0 vaccume it hesitates and pops, like it richens up a ton. If i let the plunger out, it just dies. I propped the plunger open and backed it out into the driveway, and tried to drive it back in, but as soon as i would hit zero vaccume pulling up the driveway, it would pop and hesitate and die on me. My question is, is this a AFM problem? Does this mean my afm is no good?

 

Hmm, I really don't know the answer to your problem but my totally stock 1987 t2 has that similar problem. I don't have an accellerated warm up on my car for some reason so when I start it cold and then don't touch anything about 8-10 seconds later it dies. But the difference is if I tap the gas once before it dies then it idles slightly higher and doesn't die at all but just keeps a slightly higher idle for a while until its warmed up.

Hope that helps a little if at all.

 

yeah, I held the plunger in til it warmed up, but it just died again when i let it out. Im thinking i have a vaccume leak somewhere, has to be. Im going to take uim off and start checking everything where there could be a vaccume leak, starting with injectors, and working my way through the system. Im also going to pull out the fsm and check the afm per the manual.

 

^gooooood call. also might wanna check the TPS.

 

im thinking vacum leak....

 

checked everything for a vaccume leak except for the lower intake manifold. I was able to start it and keep it running by holding in the afm plunger like before. but it still wouldnt idle on its own. Decided to grab a can of starter fluid out of the cabinet and started spraying around the engine looking for a change in idle. I sprayed right above the hotside of the turbo and it almost killed the engine. Got it closer to the bottom of the manifold and sprayed and it killed the motor. Apparently i have a huge leak down there somewhere. Looks like ill be stripping it down to get the LIM off tomorrow.

 

Have you checked your Turbo Intake Duct by the turbo side? Just take it off so you can get a good look at it.

 

tore the whole thing down, everything except for the turbo manifold came off. Now heres what happens. I can get it to start and idle on its own now, so i took it for a drive. Drove it around the block. Car drives fine in vaccume, but if you hit 0 vaccume it bogs and exhaust pops a ton, like its dumping a ton of fuel or something. Anyone know why this could be. Couple things i need to fix are the water temp sensor is not working, and im not running a 02 sensor right now. Can these effect the stock ecu from keeping the car running?
I have a aftermarket 2.5" tid thats all aluminum, so theres no leaks there.

 

Um, no, you can't do that.

The S4 ones use 3 pins; the S5 ones use 4 pins.
You're missing a +12VDC reference I think with the S4 set-up.

So, this won't work.
I'll plug in, but the I don't think the boost sensor will work correctly?

Try and scan error codes off the ECU and see what it pops up?


-Ted

 

if you are using a s5 harness, is it a S5 engine? and therefore an s5 OMP....

with a S4 ECU?


eh.....

 

just stick with one generation geez...

 

I have a S5 ecu, S5 harness, the block itself is S4, all manifolds, Turbo, TB and such are S5. The only thing S4 is the block itself, and the pressure sensor. S5's use 3 pins on the pressure sensor, and S4's use 4, so i was told that it should work correctly. Im going to double check my injector clips arnt switched around, and check the gas since its been sitting for few months. Oh and the car is not running a OMP, it runs premix, no emmissions. Use to be run by a haltech, but i am trying to get it running with a stock ecu.

 

Oops, did I get that backwards?
Whatever the case, can you verify the boost sensor is spitting out the correct signal voltage back to the ECU?
The FSM has checks for "0" pressure @ x VDC...


-Ted

 

tried clearing the ecu, no luck. I have two cars for sale, 89 TII 40k orig miles on car, orig blaze red paint, mint black interior, 1700 on a streetported motor, lots of other mods. Just needs the kinks worked out. I have not the time nor the money to be doing this. I have no dd, and cannot afford one unless I sell this. Also have a 93 FD for sale. Silver, 38k original miles on the car, tons of mods, motor is blown. Has compression in rear rotor, but no seals left in the front. Car is mint inside and out, also has a $2k eclipse stereo system. PM if you have questions about them.

 

Hello are u gonna sell me that fc or what i need one that is in good condition i dont wanna do a three rotor conversion on a used up car i need a good fc please consider selling i'll pay ur price ok thanks