i drive home and my car runs just fine. shut it down and go in for a bit, come back out and it won't start. what should i do? its an 87 turbo II with 3 inch exhaust, s5 turbo, 3 inch tid, and no emissions.
thanks Tony

 

probably flooded, try removing egi fuse, then crank for a few seconds, then put the fuse back in, and i bet it will start. Or it could just have low compression

 

Be a little more specific. Does it turn over or is it completely dead? I agree with the above if its turning over and over but not grabbing but if not then it could be your batteries dead or a bad ground or possibly your starter.

If it is turning over and over and over go to this http://www.rx7.com/techarticles_unfloodFC.html

and follow the procedure to get it running again.

 

warm start flooding.

If the conventional methods of unflooding (holding the Accel pedal down without pumping, while cranking) then you need to look at professionally ultrasoncily cleaning or replacing the injectors.

 

Try disconnecting your Trailing Coil Spark Plug Wire.....hopefully car starts and reconnect it if it does..Maybe the car just got flooded and also dont push on the gas until 2-3 seconds into cranking..Just tap the pedal full extension a couple times then keep it pressed for another second or two if it doesnt start its something else

 

Never ever pump or "tap" the gas; while starting a fuel injected vehicle. It will only make a flooded vehicle worse.

And disconnecting the trailing coil will do nothing. The trailing coil is not even needed to start the car. The leading is used. the trailing coil is for helping burn the gas further for better combustion and lower emissons.

Please read the owners manual and research before posting. Your answer is clearly wrong on everything you posted in your answer.

 

ICEMARK pumping it once or two times lightly not all the way down prior to cranking is okay, when the engine is cranked over it is good to not pump the gas until 7-10 seconds later again if it doesnt start and pumped 2-3 times then held third time for another second then turn the ignition off. Pull plugs and clean them with a wire brush some gas or REPLACE them. The Trailing coil wire removing is a trick also that WORKS...Especially on turbo cars...This is taken from my experiences and KNOW they work...so if you dont agree with my information Icemark then dont use it, but i know my info is worth the try.

 

I'll jump in here until IceMark gets a chance to come back...

You're not too familiar with a rotary engine, young grasshopper. Not only do they not unflood themselves by just sitting, such as a boinger will, with unflooding, you're doing more than just trying remove the gas out of the rotor housings. When your rotary is flooded, you have the added problem of low compression due to the oil being eaten away by the gas, causing your nice seal to be compromised.

Um... If you're referring to the vapor lock on the gas-tank side, pulling the trailing coil won't help that at all, to fix this simply remove the gas cap (hear that nice "Hiss" sound? that's the gas tank de-pressurizing). And I haven't heard of vapor-lock causing a major problem on the engine side since people stopped using the inefficent carbs of the 60s/70s..


Now, due to the fact that you're trying to rebuild a bit of compression, AND trying to push the gas out of the engine, the most logical thing to do is to follow the tried and true method of deflooding posted in the link. And if your choice is pulling your trailing plug connector (which does nothing), or simply removeing the "EFI MAIN FUSE" from the fuse box, which do you think is easier?

Pushing the pedal at all (with the EFI fuse in, mind you) will put MORE fuel into the engine. this is not what you want. You are not suffereing from too little gas in the engine, but too much. You want to get some good cranks in there where its just putting the oil back into the system, and not gas.

On a side note, SUPERROTARYPOWER, I realize you're new here, but you'll soon recognize that IceMark is not even a person. We're not sure what he is, but many believe that he's a robot sent directly from Mazda to answer our questions, and astound us with his complete understanding of Rx-7s, especially their electronics and features. If he says something, you're best served to listen to what it is, as he's very, very rarely wrong.

 

 

...anyways, it's probably flooded, happens to mine ALL the time, i just pull the egi fuse, crank, replace, and its ok, i also pull my spark plug and clean them

 

If flooding is starting to become an issue, get your injectors looked at, I believe. There nce was a thread dedicated to flooding, and the guy that wrote it came off kind of mean, like it's your fault. Well, just don't pump it, and it won't be your fault. There's always looking into putting a switch on the fuel pump, so you can cut it, need be, kinda comes in handy.

I always thought Icemark was one of those welding robots, because he's always repairing the wiper relays and switches. Dear n00b, don't mess with Icemark, it will make you many enemies.

 

Qoute:On a side note, SUPERROTARYPOWER, I realize you're new here, but you'll soon recognize that IceMark is not even a person. We're not sure what he is, but many believe that he's a robot sent directly from Mazda to answer our questions, and astound us with his complete understanding of Rx-7s, especially their electronics and features. If he says something, you're best served to listen to what it is, as he's very, very rarely wrong.Qoute

Thats priceless hehe.

 

 

SuperStock2 so what happened how about a follow-up?

 

Don't forget the possibility that one of your coolant seals is failing; water might have leaked into the combustion chamber. Got any smoking? Losing any coolant?

 

umm
pumping it helps... sometimes
ever start it and it never catches but when you give it gas it catches?
.. or sometimes when its lgithly flooded, pumping it helps it start

someone said stepping on gas prior to cranking...
all you are doing is opening and shutting the throttle blades... it doesnt give gas...

 

Pressing the gas down prior to cranking does two things. Opens the Throttle body up so that you can get as much air in to push out the gas as possible and secondly the computer will not fire the injectors till you release the pedal a little.

 

wrong and wrong

air is already at atmosphere pressure in the manifold
opening the throttle prior to cranking does NOTHING

the injector fire according to throttle position on s4
the injector cuts fuel at WOT on s5, so 70% throttle will still give gas


how low is your iq?

 

Slpin wrong opening it prior to cranking does do something....Helps the ECU

 

how does it help the ECU
explain. does it maintain it so you dont get the 3800 rpm hesitation?
it is an E ******* see you, not a carb

 

Slpin nice to know that....Mustang's specifically have it where you put the pedal twice all the way down and the ECU understands that the engine is flooded and makes slight adjustments to help get the engine started, and i bet you will say hey this is not a mustang, but hey mustangs are EFI's and i dont know much about the ECU's on the Rx-7s but i know when i do it * it works * Never had any trouble getting a EFI running, its easier then baking a cake.

 

I think he meant that if you go to WOT beforehand you open the throttle plates so when the engine starts drawing air, it doesn't just make vacuum.

and who the hell mentioned 70% throttle?

 

Slipn i noticed you lashing out at my IQ..how is yours? its at atmospheic pressure? prior to starting? HOW? MR IQ?

 

gotta love flame wars after knowledgable(sp?) people have had their say.

 

http://www.lemmings.com/mark/rx7flood.htm