turboteg90

recently i replaced my alternator an the car still wont keep charge,it drives for a while than when i turn it off it starts to kill my battery to the point where it just cliks,the alternator is new,is there anythin else that can cause this problem?

galaxy convoy

iTrader: (12)

well I got the same problem as yours before. try to check the wires thats connected to your alternator especially terminal B.

turboteg90

when i swaped the alternator i only conected the wire that has the two plugs,in the old alternator there was another cable hook to it,but i could not find it in the new one

InsomniacFC

iTrader: (4)

How is the battery? You can take it down to autozone or kragen and they will test it for free.

turboteg90

its fine,i have swapped the battery in to my cavalier an it runs with out problem.
you think the starter could be goin bad?,my volt meter says i have 12 and yet the car just cliks.although even when i try to jump it it takes a while to start even with a fully charge battery,

InsomniacFC

iTrader: (4)

The solenoid on the starter could have gone out. When mine did, the car would not turn over and there would a be a clicking sound coming from where the EGI is at on the passenger side. I replaced it with a known good starter and it started right up. They might be able to test your starter at autozone as well.

Icemark

You need to hook up the cable. If the cable is not hooked up, there is no power getting from the alt to the battery.

The cable supplies the alt's output to the car.

Just plugging in the two pin plug is nothing. No wonder you don't hold a charge... without that cable connected you don't have your alternator hooked up.

turboteg90

i hook up the two pin plug and the ground one,is there another?if so what part of the alternator is it on?i check in the old alternator and its the same as the new,i cant remember where i pull the other plug from.

Icemark

There is not a ground cable.

Two pin plug and a large power cable need to be hooked up.

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

That large cable from the alternator runs to the fuse box under the hood

katkaroto

maybe you should take pictures for us to see.. i remember i had this issue.. i took the time to buy a used starter and took the one off my car and the one i bought to test at o reillys. the one off the car worked and the one i bought was shot. then put the working one back and and crank.. just click, so i check all my wiring and even did a jump start. nothing... then i realized a wire cut short by 2 inches of the positive side of the battery.. found some ground wire and connected it to the positive. and vroom!! beast revival!!

but in your case... take some pictures of the wirings, it may help.

turboteg90

here they are.

turboteg90

i just noticed that my old alternator had an L shape plug and the new one is different,it has an h shape(pic)the guy i bought it from said it was an s4 alt.my motor is an s5 block with s4 accesories like,turbo,starter,and alt.didi i get the wrong one.

Icemark

The new alt is a S5 non turbo alt. (hence the N350 sticker).

Is the large wire with the orange cap on it hooked up to the output post of the alt?

How are you plugging in the 2 pin plug??? did you make some adapter plug?

Your CAS looks disconnected or damaged as well... at very least it is missing the protective cover.

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

Do you have one of those Jspec T-II import engines?



If you've hoooked up the 2 pin connector and the black charge cable(thing on the top right with the boot) it should be charging properly.

You need to put the Cover on your Crank angle sensor, and if you can't figure out something as easy as an alternator thats plug and play, you shouldn't be working on your car.

dothacker

Hmm... I was wondering where his CAS cover was.

anyways, if it just clicks... i could be the starter, not the alternator.

turboteg90

thanks for not bashin me guys,im new to rx7s.the wire with the orange cap is hook up,i swaped the post from the old alternator so the intercooler would clear,as for the two plug it just fits.

HAILERS

In the second jpg, your fingering the Air INtake Temp Sensor. I'd install that on the sensor if I were you.

The wiring is a hodgepodge. The wire colors on the alternators small plug are wrong for a 1986 EM harness. A Turbo EM harness has no alternator wires. So it's a puzzle what is happening with this car.

Click, click is usually a bad starter. Usually, but not always. With the car in neutral you can get under the car and jumper b/t the small blade terminal on the solenoid and the Large wire on the solenoid, and the starter should turn over. No key required. If it does turn over, it COULD be a bad starter or starter brushes or it COULD be not enough current from the igniton key circuit.

The starter solenoid gets two wires. One large one from the batt positive post and one small one that fits on the small blade on the solenoid. The ground cable from the battery goes to the LONG bolt that holds the starteron the engine. BUT it may go to any of the bolts that hold the engine/transmission together.

turboteg90

the guy i traded with said it was a s5 block,with s4 wirin,starter and alternator

turboteg90

heres the motor,it runs fine just has alot of sensor disconnected,plz help me.point out everythin you see thats bad

HAILERS

Air Intake Temp Sensor is located on the metal intake duct on the engine. Intercooler has to come off. It's a two prong outfit.

The alternator plug throws some of us off. He must have done something to make this work. IF you find that the battery goes dead after a few days, and this keeps happening, then he might have miswired it. Too hard to tell.

turboteg90

now the car keeps charge while is on,but starts to kill the battery when i try to turn it back on.

HAILERS

JPG of where the air intake temp sensor is, is attached.

When the engine is running, is there a volt gauge you are looking at that shows at least 13-14 vdc on it? Or are you using a meter and probing the alternator output terminal while the engine is running?

turboteg90

thanks for the pic man,when the engine is running the factory volt meter shows about 14.and i have driven the car for long periods of time and the car wont sputter or try to die at a stop,it keeps charge when is on,but when turnin it back on is the trick,it starts with a jump.

HAILERS

Explain "turn it back on is the trick".

If you don't jump it with a jumper cable, just WHAT happens? Click, click when you turn the key to Start? OR nothing when you go to Start?

Say you run the engine and it's showing 14vdc on the stock gauge. Now you turn it off and wait a half hour. Now turn the key to just ON. WHAT does the gauge read with the key to ON? 12vdc? 11vdc? 10 vdc? 9vdc ............ NOT to Start. Just to ON after a half hour after running.

And if the key is OFF, do you have any interior lights on? Dash lights? Idiot lights? Glove box lights? Radio lights? Tail lights? Reverse lights?

I'd take the cover off the cas in your old engine and put it on the cas on the new engine.