Car doesnt Haul right, I got pictures of what may have cause it (Need feedback)
12-21-06, 09:59 AM
#26
Originally Posted by lchaidez
lol... well ofcourse they do... but i dont know what to listen for and how to determine what it is. meaning... bla bla bla
If you don't have a compression tester, it is actually still very easy to determine the state of an engine. Remove the leading spark plug from the front rotor, make sure the battery is fully charged, and then crank the engine while listening to the air exiting the spark plug holes. It should be an even rhythm of "psssst" sounds, one per every half revolution of the eccentric shaft. Something like "psst...psst...psst...psst...psst...psst". An engine with a bad seal will be very obvious in that you will hear an irregular pattern of "psst" sounds or one "psst" for each revolution. For example, you would crank the engine and hear ".........psst...psst..................psst...psst ...." or something like "psst.............psst...........psst............. psst.".
12-21-06, 10:12 AM
#27
Well i just got some new sparks... not cheap ones either..
My5ABaby, which is the front rotor? I know this is sounds stupid, but i dont wanna make anything worse...
So I would remove the leading spark plug : : <--which is the top left? from the front rotor make sure the battery is charged and listen to the air coming out of the spark plug i removed? Is this not dangerous? like fire hazard or something?
im sorry let me repeat it...
1. Remove leading spark plug from front rotor
2. Once removed, Ensure battery is fully charged Then crank the engine
3. Where the spark plug was removed, listen for a constant "psst" effect. (or air coming out)
4. Turn off engine?
Now, would the car turn on with a missing spark plug? again sorry, but im just too ******' new to this. =( and want to do it right.
My5ABaby, which is the front rotor? I know this is sounds stupid, but i dont wanna make anything worse...
So I would remove the leading spark plug : : <--which is the top left? from the front rotor make sure the battery is charged and listen to the air coming out of the spark plug i removed? Is this not dangerous? like fire hazard or something?
im sorry let me repeat it...
1. Remove leading spark plug from front rotor
2. Once removed, Ensure battery is fully charged Then crank the engine
3. Where the spark plug was removed, listen for a constant "psst" effect. (or air coming out)
4. Turn off engine?
Now, would the car turn on with a missing spark plug? again sorry, but im just too ******' new to this. =( and want to do it right.
12-21-06, 10:20 AM
#29
Originally Posted by lchaidez
Well i just got some new sparks... not cheap ones either..
My5ABaby, which is the front rotor? I know this is sounds stupid, but i dont wanna make anything worse...
So I would remove the leading spark plug : : <--which is the top left? from the front rotor make sure the battery is charged and listen to the air coming out of the spark plug i removed? Is this not dangerous? like fire hazard or something?
im sorry let me repeat it...
1. Remove leading spark plug from front rotor
2. Once removed, Ensure battery is fully charged Then crank the engine
3. Where the spark plug was removed, listen for a constant "psst" effect. (or air coming out)
4. Turn off engine?
Now, would the car turn on with a missing spark plug? again sorry, but im just too ******' new to this. =( and want to do it right.
My5ABaby, which is the front rotor? I know this is sounds stupid, but i dont wanna make anything worse...
So I would remove the leading spark plug : : <--which is the top left? from the front rotor make sure the battery is charged and listen to the air coming out of the spark plug i removed? Is this not dangerous? like fire hazard or something?
im sorry let me repeat it...
1. Remove leading spark plug from front rotor
2. Once removed, Ensure battery is fully charged Then crank the engine
3. Where the spark plug was removed, listen for a constant "psst" effect. (or air coming out)
4. Turn off engine?
Now, would the car turn on with a missing spark plug? again sorry, but im just too ******' new to this. =( and want to do it right.
no no no you crazy fool!
you take the fuses out so it is only cranking, not running.
i doubt you blown anything... it wont be too easy to start with a dead rotor and ****
the front rotor is the one on the front... while the back rotor is the one towards the back (firewall)
12-21-06, 10:21 AM
#30
Here's another write up that should explain it all. From: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection.com
Poor Man’s Compression test(free):
1)
Remove lower sparkplug and wire from front rotor.
2)
Remove EGI fuse from underhood fusebox to prevent fuel and spark while testing.
3)
Have an assistant crank the car over for you, while you listen under the hood at the compression pulses coming from this plug hole. IT is recommended to put your hand/finger right in front of the hole to feel the pulses of air.
4)
There should be one strong pulse/whoosh of air per full rotation of the crank pulley. Use the timing marks on it as a reference. There should be 3 even pulses in succession, without skips or gallops.
5)
IF one or more pulses are weaker or non existant, this indicates (usually) at least one blown apex seal and severe internal damage. A full rebuild will be required, and no further troubleshooting will help.
6)
IF this chamber passes the compression test, replace this plug and repeat for the rear. The rear rotor blows more often then the front on 88 and prior engines, and the front rotor blows more often on 89 and later engines, for reasons unknown.
7)
With both lower plugs out at one time, you can listen/feel for compression on both rotors at once. This should be a rhythmic ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch sound, like an old steam engine train, alternating front to back, once per rotor per rotation. Any skips or galloping indicate loss of compression.
8)
Note that this procedure can be used to test junkyard engines or engines out of the car. You will need a 19mm socket and ratchet to turn the front crank pulley bolt clockwise in quick, long strokes as possible to get a somewhat accurate reading. You will obviously not be able to turn the engine much at a time, so try to count each pulse as you go.
1)
Remove lower sparkplug and wire from front rotor.
2)
Remove EGI fuse from underhood fusebox to prevent fuel and spark while testing.
3)
Have an assistant crank the car over for you, while you listen under the hood at the compression pulses coming from this plug hole. IT is recommended to put your hand/finger right in front of the hole to feel the pulses of air.
4)
There should be one strong pulse/whoosh of air per full rotation of the crank pulley. Use the timing marks on it as a reference. There should be 3 even pulses in succession, without skips or gallops.
5)
IF one or more pulses are weaker or non existant, this indicates (usually) at least one blown apex seal and severe internal damage. A full rebuild will be required, and no further troubleshooting will help.
6)
IF this chamber passes the compression test, replace this plug and repeat for the rear. The rear rotor blows more often then the front on 88 and prior engines, and the front rotor blows more often on 89 and later engines, for reasons unknown.
7)
With both lower plugs out at one time, you can listen/feel for compression on both rotors at once. This should be a rhythmic ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch sound, like an old steam engine train, alternating front to back, once per rotor per rotation. Any skips or galloping indicate loss of compression.
8)
Note that this procedure can be used to test junkyard engines or engines out of the car. You will need a 19mm socket and ratchet to turn the front crank pulley bolt clockwise in quick, long strokes as possible to get a somewhat accurate reading. You will obviously not be able to turn the engine much at a time, so try to count each pulse as you go.
12-21-06, 10:25 AM
#31
Originally Posted by slpin
yoru cats prob just blocking ****
get a new one, son
get a new one, son
yea, thats probably it i hope... hey slpin do i have to get a new cat back system if i get a new cat? john from mazdatrix mentioned i had to. what do you think?
12-21-06, 10:29 AM
#32
i dont think you need to get a new catback.
there is a possibility that **** gets flown thru to get it blocked
but then, you can always unbolt it, and hit that **** on the ground and see if **** will come out... or blow on it and see... after you put the new cat in, put your ifnger on both catback, and see if they both blow the same amount of air... or if it is hyphy hot, then it oculd be clogged and you would need new catback
you can get an old one for pretty dirt cheap... infact, i have a full na exhaust that im giving away, but i live in the bayarea where bitches gets dumb and hyphy.
there is a possibility that **** gets flown thru to get it blocked
but then, you can always unbolt it, and hit that **** on the ground and see if **** will come out... or blow on it and see... after you put the new cat in, put your ifnger on both catback, and see if they both blow the same amount of air... or if it is hyphy hot, then it oculd be clogged and you would need new catback
you can get an old one for pretty dirt cheap... infact, i have a full na exhaust that im giving away, but i live in the bayarea where bitches gets dumb and hyphy.
12-21-06, 10:42 AM
#33
Originally Posted by slpin
i dont think you need to get a new catback.
there is a possibility that **** gets flown thru to get it blocked
but then, you can always unbolt it, and hit that **** on the ground and see if **** will come out... or blow on it and see... after you put the new cat in, put your ifnger on both catback, and see if they both blow the same amount of air... or if it is hyphy hot, then it oculd be clogged and you would need new catback
you can get an old one for pretty dirt cheap... infact, i have a full na exhaust that im giving away, but i live in the bayarea where bitches gets dumb and hyphy.
there is a possibility that **** gets flown thru to get it blocked
but then, you can always unbolt it, and hit that **** on the ground and see if **** will come out... or blow on it and see... after you put the new cat in, put your ifnger on both catback, and see if they both blow the same amount of air... or if it is hyphy hot, then it oculd be clogged and you would need new catback
you can get an old one for pretty dirt cheap... infact, i have a full na exhaust that im giving away, but i live in the bayarea where bitches gets dumb and hyphy.
i guess im a little dissapointed because i just spent atleast 1grand on the car about 2 weeks ago and this is my end result. yea, and considering im a bit low on funds to fix things immediately.
lol... well im in the bay area aswell... so i wouldnt mind taken that offer =) watya say? im basically in the el segundo area.
12-21-06, 08:01 PM
#34
So looky what i saw before i left work today!! Here are the pics
What is it!? Cause it sure as hell didnt fix mah problem lol! I had like the biggest feel of relief! I turned off the car and connected the hose as best as i could with my hands, and turned it back on.. and NOTHING! i felt like **** i gotta admit... but help me out dudes, how is it that it came off?? and what is that hose? i felt air coming through it... heater huh? wtf~
What is it!? Cause it sure as hell didnt fix mah problem lol! I had like the biggest feel of relief! I turned off the car and connected the hose as best as i could with my hands, and turned it back on.. and NOTHING! i felt like **** i gotta admit... but help me out dudes, how is it that it came off?? and what is that hose? i felt air coming through it... heater huh? wtf~
12-21-06, 11:15 PM
#37
Information Regurgitator
I believe that is the other end of the split air pipe that you were taling about/had pics of earlier.The rubber hose connects it to the lower intake or ACV I can't remember which. I t supplies fresh air to the cat so I wouldn't expect it to be the cause of you problem.
12-22-06, 09:50 AM
#40
Well i drove it to work this morning and I have a couple of video clips i took with my digi cam. I will upload them, or host them somewhere and show you guys. I still think running on a single rotor and getting this much power is amazing (that is if i am running on 1 rotor). Either im getting used to it, or its clearing up a bit... ahh i think im gettind used to it.
hey slpin my cousins graduating from Sacramento Uni. I may be able to swing by
not this sat, but next 
lol jk... it was a nice offer.... its to bad 
so having that hose unplugged couldnt have caused this? how does it get sad? by clogging up? or being poisoned? I come out of work early. I will have it checked. seeing that i am more towards the clogged, or damaged CAT (with all the pictures ive shown) i do the back pressure thing right?
hey slpin my cousins graduating from Sacramento Uni. I may be able to swing by
not this sat, but next lol jk... it was a nice offer.... its to bad so having that hose unplugged couldnt have caused this? how does it get sad? by clogging up? or being poisoned? I come out of work early. I will have it checked. seeing that i am more towards the clogged, or damaged CAT (with all the pictures ive shown) i do the back pressure thing right?
12-22-06, 11:16 AM
#41
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
DO THE DAMNED COMPRESSION TEST. It's free, and the only tools required are a sparkplug socket and (in your case) an assistant
Originally Posted by lchaidez
Well i drove it to work this morning and I have a couple of video clips i took with my digi cam. I will upload them, or host them somewhere and show you guys. I still think running on a single rotor and getting this much power is amazing (that is if i am running on 1 rotor). Either im getting used to it, or its clearing up a bit... ahh i think im gettind used to it.
hey slpin my cousins graduating from Sacramento Uni. I may be able to swing by not this sat, but next lol jk... it was a nice offer.... its to bad
so having that hose unplugged couldnt have caused this? how does it get sad? by clogging up? or being poisoned? I come out of work early. I will have it checked. seeing that i am more towards the clogged, or damaged CAT (with all the pictures ive shown) i do the back pressure thing right?
hey slpin my cousins graduating from Sacramento Uni. I may be able to swing by
not this sat, but next lol jk... it was a nice offer.... its to bad so having that hose unplugged couldnt have caused this? how does it get sad? by clogging up? or being poisoned? I come out of work early. I will have it checked. seeing that i am more towards the clogged, or damaged CAT (with all the pictures ive shown) i do the back pressure thing right?
12-22-06, 11:46 AM
#42
Originally Posted by My5ABaby
LOL~ WHATTT!! im just trying to learn about these things... Im no expert in mechanics and want to make myself sure of it...
anyways... cmon My5ABaby... lol...
hey would would running lean screw up my converter? or running rich? ive tried researching but i get these threads off topic talking about "got lean?" body roll and stuff... If im running lean should i go rich? if so how ? if im running rich? is that ok? should i go lean? ahhh im so confused now...
12-26-06, 10:25 AM
#45
Engine, Not Motor
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A compression test has been performed. Here is the PM I received from the owner:
After 3 Tests for each rotor. Here are the reults i came up with. Followed by hearing a good consistant 'psst' for each complete revolution.
Front Rotor (Fan) = 92
Rear Rotor (Firewall?) = 90
I have a couple of pix i took. And video footage if i can find a way to show you (either on the thread, or a host). I will resize the images. And post them on the thread. Or should I start a new one?
So what else should I be lookin for?
Cat isnt Clogged
Engines Compression is Ok.
Thank yoU! I hope your Holidays are going great!
Front Rotor (Fan) = 92
Rear Rotor (Firewall?) = 90
I have a couple of pix i took. And video footage if i can find a way to show you (either on the thread, or a host). I will resize the images. And post them on the thread. Or should I start a new one?
So what else should I be lookin for?
Cat isnt Clogged
Engines Compression is Ok.
Thank yoU! I hope your Holidays are going great!
12-26-06, 12:11 PM
#46
ok, well someone just told me that I should have removed a pin, or something on the comp. gauge so that it could reset every time the rotor spins. Well, I didnt do that on this test, but i reviewd the video clip and noticed that it added up to 90psi.
Based on aarons writeup, my the rotors seals are good. I heard a consistent 'psst' effect, I also noticed that the gauge jumped atleast 30psi for each side. Totaling 90-92 psi for either rotor. does that mean i have 30psi compression in my engine? or 92psi?
Based on aarons writeup, my the rotors seals are good. I heard a consistent 'psst' effect, I also noticed that the gauge jumped atleast 30psi for each side. Totaling 90-92 psi for either rotor. does that mean i have 30psi compression in my engine? or 92psi?
12-26-06, 12:42 PM
#50
well it currently has 121ish, and i got it at 112ish or 115ish the previous owner said he rebuilt the engine at about 85ish or 90ish. Prior to that, another owner just drove it and did the regular maint.
so yeap... im not discouraged... just a bit bummed. cause i just put atleast 1g in parts in it. Its cool though, like you said it was bound to happen sooner or later. Better sooner than later i suppose... but in this case it would of been nice if it was later.
Well thanks for your input, and aaron for re-opening my thread.
Aaron you can close this thread, I will PM you as soon as i start the rebuilding. One of my friends has a shop, so we'll be using some of his tools. Ill maybe then order the appropriate rotary tools I need through out the process of rebuilding it. I CAN say this process will take a little longer than other rebuilds. This is my first car, and first rotary. I want to be part of the operation. That way I can learn some tricks. I will still use this forum for tips, and advice. Also to post my continued experience with Rotary.
NO! i dont think rotary is crap~ I will be back ^^ until then! I will put my car to sleep. Have a great day! And a good rest of the year + New years! Bye!
Time to change my signature ^^"
so yeap... im not discouraged... just a bit bummed. cause i just put atleast 1g in parts in it. Its cool though, like you said it was bound to happen sooner or later. Better sooner than later i suppose... but in this case it would of been nice if it was later.
Well thanks for your input, and aaron for re-opening my thread.
Aaron you can close this thread, I will PM you as soon as i start the rebuilding. One of my friends has a shop, so we'll be using some of his tools. Ill maybe then order the appropriate rotary tools I need through out the process of rebuilding it. I CAN say this process will take a little longer than other rebuilds. This is my first car, and first rotary. I want to be part of the operation. That way I can learn some tricks. I will still use this forum for tips, and advice. Also to post my continued experience with Rotary.
NO! i dont think rotary is crap~ I will be back ^^ until then! I will put my car to sleep. Have a great day! And a good rest of the year + New years! Bye!
Time to change my signature ^^"