Car dies on deceleration (searched and tried things)
#1
Car dies on deceleration (searched and tried things)
When a start my car warm, my car dies when I press the clutch. It goes too low and does come back up. I know my BAC valve is ok cause my revs go up when I put the A\C on. So tought about the dashpot. Try to adjust it by opening it a bit more with my TB in my hand (no mesurement done), but it made no difference at all ! The dashpot rod seemed ok.
Even with my car warm, the idle drops way down (around 400) before going up but it doesn't stall.
And I found this :
I know the dashpot rod is supposed to touch between 2700 and 3100rpm. I have to take my TB out to adjust it cause it's an NA and I can't really adjust it otherwise.
"TPS between 1.8K ohms and 3.8K ohms" This for an 88 turbo, mine is an S5 NA, is it the same thing and is it a correct way to adjust it ? Cause the range seems pretty large !!!
I'll try it anyway, but would there be another thing that would resolve my problem ?
Even with my car warm, the idle drops way down (around 400) before going up but it doesn't stall.
And I found this :
I thought it was a tuning issue at first on my Power FC, but I went through my maps and settings and they were ok. Just today I thought about adjusting the dashpot, and after some searches I found that link and the FSM pages. The FSM says to measure TPS resistance where the dashpot rod thingie and the butterflys first make contact as the throttle closes. FSM spec is 1.8K ohms - 3.8 K ohms , which is still a decently wide range even on the narrow-range s4 TPS. After playing around with it for a while and a couple test drives, I set it so that the dashpot first touches the butterflys at 2.2 K ohms. Everybody's TPS is a little different (I replaced mine with a brand new one) so you'll have to play with it yourself to see what works.
"TPS between 1.8K ohms and 3.8K ohms" This for an 88 turbo, mine is an S5 NA, is it the same thing and is it a correct way to adjust it ? Cause the range seems pretty large !!!
I'll try it anyway, but would there be another thing that would resolve my problem ?
#2
My $0.02 worth...before you even start thinking about dashpots and BAC's, is your TPS correctly set? 1000 OHMS, engine fully warmed up. Once you've ensured that, have you then gone back and adjusted the idle to 750? Again, engine fully warmed up, initial set connector shorted, adjust by the screw on top of the TB.
If all that's OK, have you checked for vacuum leaks? Unmetered air into the system will cause stalling and idle crash.
Work the simplist things first and then on to the more complex.
If all that's OK, have you checked for vacuum leaks? Unmetered air into the system will cause stalling and idle crash.
Work the simplist things first and then on to the more complex.
#3
My TPS is set correctly, vaccuum all been changed this winter, changed my oxygen sensor too. My idle is set at 750 and is really stable. The only thing left that I could think of is my dashpot...
Thanks fo your answer...
Anything else anyone ?
Thanks fo your answer...
Anything else anyone ?
#7
the s4 and s5 procedure is different just because of the difference in tps design. 1.8k to 3.8k ohms on the s4 narrow range TPS is only like an inch of pedal movement.
just follow the s5 fsm procedure, it may help. I know adjusting it made a big difference on my car but I have a lightweight flywheel.
just follow the s5 fsm procedure, it may help. I know adjusting it made a big difference on my car but I have a lightweight flywheel.
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#8
the s4 and s5 procedure is different just because of the difference in tps design. 1.8k to 3.8k ohms on the s4 narrow range TPS is only like an inch of pedal movement.
just follow the s5 fsm procedure, it may help. I know adjusting it made a big difference on my car but I have a lightweight flywheel.
just follow the s5 fsm procedure, it may help. I know adjusting it made a big difference on my car but I have a lightweight flywheel.
Nic
#9
#10
unless the s5 dashpot is different, just look at it and you will see a locknut underneath the mushroom-shaped top. Loosen that nut (it may not loosen easily if it's never been touched before) and the you can physically screw the mushroom part itself to adjust it.
#11
#12
Thanks fo your advice.
#13
Does your dashpot look like the first image? If so, you can get to it from the firewall side standing on the drivers side with a 17 mm wrench like the one in the second image. It ain't easy, but it can be done with a little patience.
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LunchboxSA22
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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10-26-15 10:53 AM
10, 18, 1987, car, dashpot, deacceleration, deceleation, deceleration, decelleration, dies, jetta, megasquirt