Car dies at 1500rpms
#26
Maybe you overlooked it as you must have some type of ground or the car would never run. If you look at the smallest plug of the ECU you will find three wires which are solid Black. These are most of the ECU grounds. If you measure the voltage of these grounds w/key to on they should have zero voltage.
Pic of engine ground.
Pic of engine ground.
![](http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/8136/engineground.th.png)
#27
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ok, ill take a look. I dont think ive seen that ground because when I originally dropped my engine in I think I relocated that ground because the engine had been painted. But ill take a look and let you know. I was reading a thread you had going with some other kid. Kinda the same issue.
https://www.rx7club.com/new-member-rx-7-technical-256/injectors-not-getting-voltage-pulse-ecu-964669/page2/
https://www.rx7club.com/new-member-rx-7-technical-256/injectors-not-getting-voltage-pulse-ecu-964669/page2/
#28
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Just a thought, have you checked the fuel pressure in the line? It should be like 60 - 80 psi I think. If not that, maybe check to see if your cat is clogged up. I've seen clogged cats cause cars (even Rotary's) to run like that.
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I havent checked the fuel pressure. I dont have a tool to check it. And I have no CAT, all emissions extras have been deleted. I'm running a 3"DP 3"Mid pipe full Corksport exhaust. I think 60-80 is N/a I believe TII is 75-90 if I'm correct. Do you know what tool I have to use to check it? I'm guessing one with a T fitting.
#33
The fuel pressure at idle is a wee bit above 30psi and upwards of 40 psi when the FPR has no vacuum which is the same thing if the vacuum hose is pulled off of the FPR. The FPR has no vacuum under certain situations like starting the car for example. If you test for fuel pressure before the fuel filter and the fuel line ran directly into the fuel pressure device it would measure up to 90 psi. The other numbers are when measured "after" the fuel filter using the hose that goes into the engine or the one coming out and the return line (coming out) is the better of the two places to measure the pressure. Teeing in the device is the method used.
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#37
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how about if your trying to crank it? And my injectors still dont work... I glues them back into the connectors... and still nothing and I tested them they get a 11.9v at on, but i wasnt able to check the crank
#38
Which injectors are you testing as the engine is turned over, primary or secondary?
And why did you glue the injectors back in to the plugs for? What if they need to be removed? If you did as suggested in post #21 you could have easily verified whether the injectors were properly seated in the plug.
And why did you glue the injectors back in to the plugs for? What if they need to be removed? If you did as suggested in post #21 you could have easily verified whether the injectors were properly seated in the plug.
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Which injectors are you testing as the engine is turned over, primary or secondary?
And why did you glue the injectors back in to the plugs for? What if they need to be removed? If you did as suggested in post #21 you could have easily verified whether the injectors were properly seated in the plug.
And why did you glue the injectors back in to the plugs for? What if they need to be removed? If you did as suggested in post #21 you could have easily verified whether the injectors were properly seated in the plug.
no I ment the wire back into the clips. because the wires were falling out. and I'm testing primary, but nothing is comming out. But I have the CAS inplugged.
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Injectors sprayed normal and fuel pressure was at 40-45psi at crank. The only thing i can think of that the car ran on 1 rotor was a massive vacuum leak or it was because my oil was soo fouled with gas that it wasn't igniting right, or my coils are bad. Satch or Karack any ideas?
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how would I safely do that? since there is the smell of fuel in my system and my fuel pressure gauge leaks the smallest amount of fuel, like a half drip ever 5-10 mins. It just needs to be tightened more.