Well the only thing i've done to the engine since it was last inspected was to put in a K&N cone filter. I suppose that could throw the emissions way off right? I remember having to put some sort of new emissions sticker on when i did the mod, and i don't think they took that into consideration when i got my car tested.

I don't exactly know what they do when they test the emissions. Will simply making that change allow the car to pass or what?

 

K&N air filter would not cause you to fail emissions.
The sticker was a "Do not replace this air filter" sticker.
Sean

 

i believe it did include an emissions sticker too. But other than that i'm at a lose as to how i failed. last time the hydrocarbons just squeaked by and i was well under the CO2 limit. yesterday the hydrocarbons were three times the limit and the CO2 was double. it beats the hell out of my how that happened.

 

Warm the car up. Pull the approx one inch in diameter hose off the acv. The one that exits the acv on the fender side and heads for the silencer in the right hand fender. Do you have a large amount of air flow coming out? Now pull the BLUE plug off the relief solenoid and feel the air flow againg. Is it the same or greater? If the answer is that the air flows the same whether or not the blue plug is on or off, you are having a problem delivering air to the port air valve and the split air valve. Write back your findings. Its assumed that prior to going to the station you changed plugs, filter, set the timing to spot on, and possibly changed the oil (I'm not a great believer in changing oil prior to emission insp, myself. I think its a myth, heresay, and bs).

 

Yeah, take it out for a spin on the highway and pull right in for inspection. That'll warm up the engine.

If you still fail, try running a bottle of those 'smog cleaner' sold at all auto parts store. You have to finish the tank w/ the cleaner before you go smog again.

I don't know if there is a vac chamber in front of the upper manifold on a second gen. If there is, emptying it can greatly improve your smog performance.
If that still doesn't get you by, your cats are probably not working real well anymore. You'll need new cat converter.

 

that could be true too, when i got my car just over a year ago the exhaust was rusted out and i had to get it replaced. but the guy who did it didn't replace the pre-cats. Could i have actually burned out the main cat in a year? damn.

Other than that i'll make sure there is a good seal to the air pump. i remember messing with that hose was a pain in the ***. as well as fairly old. thanks for the advise guys.

 

when i say didn't replace the pre-cats i mean he didn't install new ones so i just have the termal reactor and the main cat. just for clarifcation

 

I don't have a pre cat on any of my three second generation. I pass emissions in Texas each year. Its highly recommended to check what I mentioned in the earlier post. If the acv is dumping the airpump air directly overboard its the same as not having an airpump. Airpumps are needed to pass emissions. You shouldn't have to buy tricky dickey things at the auto store to pass emissions. The emissions system is not difficult to deal with. Just make sure its funcitoning.

 

ok, i'm just having a difficult time following your directions. you wouldn't happen to have any pictures would you?

 

try this cheap and easy trick....get a bottle or 2 of rubbing alcohol and put in gas tank drive for a bit then go try it......worked for me in fl when they did emissions......thank god they did away with it........i know it sounds strange....but it wont harm anything.....

 

The air control valve is on the right side of the engine. It looks like this jpg: You want to pull off the hose I drew a red ring around, and with the car idling, feel for air coming out of the acv itself. There will be a small amount coming out even if working right, but if a large volume comes out, then you have a minor problem that needs to be corrected. Now you know where the hose is. Now look at the left side of the engine. See the electrical plug that is BLUE? Pull it off while idling and then feel around the acv for a stronger flow of air. If the air coming out of the acv did not increase, and already was pretty strong, then there might very well be your problem with emissions. Can be fixed.l

 

Here is a checkout of the relief solenoid (blue plug):

 

cool, thanks hailers

 

on the bottom of the smog check test it says that the state of CA is offering financial assistance to make emission-related repairs. And if you do not qualify for that you may qualify for a repair cost waiver, which allows your vehicle to be registered without passing Smog Check. has anybody tried that?

 

thanks, but i did finally get it to pass emissions. it seems the ground i added to the pressure sensor, which was supposed to be a 3800 RPM fix, was probably throwing the O2 sensor reading way off. well, it was either that or a bad O2 sensor, i had both done at the same time so i can be sure which did the trick. anyways, after that was done it passed with flying colors. well as flying as a rotary can .

 

dump 1 cup denatured alcohol into 1/4 tank you'll pass

 

you have to be downright poor to get state assistance. the financial qualifications are such that if you qualify you probably couldn't afford a car or insurance.

 

You can do that here in Ohio..

Its what I had to do. The car was a michigan car, and had never needed to pass e-check. I got it, and it failed horriably

 

Hailers/// read the post on checking the ACV when warmed up than disconnected the ACV hose and Blue Relief Solenoid Connector.
At first I wanted to do this to see If your directions are accurate, not thinking my ACV was failing. In fact, when I first purchased my FC I had failed emmissions and It was due to a faulty ACV. Know I am concerned about the air blowing out heavy before and after disconnecting the blue connector. You asked Phu5ion
to write back on how to fix this problem and I guess he didn't. Could you tell me how to correct It?

 

Silverrotor....I pm'd you several ideas. With a warm engine pull the rear of the two vac hose off the top of the acv. They should be the two pointing straight up. Take that rear hose off and feel for a vacuum from the HOSE. No vacuum? With the engine idling, pull the blue connector on and off several times. Did you feel the solenoind engage and disengage. No? Ok. Then I suggest that the tps is not set right. When it is set correctly, there will be a ground signal to the blue solenoid causing it to engage and send a vacuum to the rear of the aforementioned vac hose on top of the acv. That suction on the acv will pull on the relief diaphram in the acv causing a poppet to close the exaust port inside the acv which will stem the flow of air overboard. See attached diagram. Note: this is for a N/A car. Diagram is different for a turbo. If you look at the attached jpg, you can see if the relief diaphram is not being pulled shut to your left, then the air escapes overboard. The suction at the rear of the two small vac hose on top of the acv pull the diaphram against a spring and the poppet valve on the end of the diaphram stops up the overboard flow.................The key is this: When you set your tps correctly, the ECU will send a ground signal to the blue solenoid (the 12v is always there) causing the solenoid to open and send a vacuum to the acv rear vac hose. TPS set wrong= no ground signal from the ECU. With the engine warm and AT IDLE, all connectors connected, shove the positive lead of your meter into the back of the TPS'S plug where the green wire with a red stripe is. It should reflect one volt. If not turn the tps screw until it reads one volt. Tps is now set right. Ain't gonna argue with anyone about this. It IS SET RIGHT. If there is no ground signal at the blue connector from the ECU at this time, I suggest the ECU has gone **** up as far as the relief solenoid is concerned. One way to check the signal is to put your meters red lead in the back of the blue connectors blue/yellow wire (the other wire should have 12v, its black/white). The voltage with the engine running and warmed up should be approx 2volts, showing the voltage drop from 12v.

 

Hailers/// Thanks for the prompt response. When I have sometime I will check It out. I'm speculating this problem could be stemming from the thermowax. Although I did let my FC FULLY warm up.

I will do the same again, set my TPS with the 2 light method than the volt method as you suggested. I will than go over the steps again with the removal and reconnection of the Blue Releif Solenoid Connector and will let you know.
Considering the AVC is 3yrs old, I highly doubt It Is at fault.