I picked up a 1986 GXL a few weeks back. He's the story.

This car was put in storage 13 years ago because of a bad clutch/flywheel. The owner of the car told his nephew he could have it. The nephew took the car to the Mazda dealers ship and they replace the fuel pump, filter, oil, plugs, vapor valve, and had the gas tank cleaned for the tune of $1850. On the way home from the car stopped moving. The nephew had the car towed to his house and there it sat for 4 months.

He advertised on Craig s List and I bought it for $300. I trailered it home and have replaced the flywheel, clutch disc, clutch plate, and throwout bearing (thanks to Trochoid for the help and knowledge).

The car idles smooth ounce it's warmed up. Until then, it pulses from about 2k-3k on the tach. Once it's warm it idles at 800 rpm. Driving it is a different story. It shifts smooth can can reach 7k with no problems. During deceleration it want's to buck really bad. It's like your going to slow for the gear but the speed is fine the the gear.

What test can I do to solve the bucking problem? I'm new to seconds gens and fuel-injection. I own a first gen and two REPUs and have never ran across this problem.

 

Sound like tps needs to be set.

 

I made a code checker today and sure enough, I get a code 6 - Throttle Sensor (1 long and 1 short). I read in the FSM that there is a light that can be connected to a check connector to set the throttle sensor adjusting screw. Is this something I can make and are there any planes similar to the code checker?

A-B
Idle position 1k ohm
Full open 5 +/- 1kohn

A-C
Idle position 5 +/- 1kohm
Full open 1k ohm

 

I found the answer to my own question at FC3spro. It looks like a good write-up on how to adjust the TPS.

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TPS/tps.html

 

I tested the TPS tonight and it was bad. Had almost 9k ohms at full-throttle. Replaced the TPS and it runs great now.